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advice for canada

ecowain

2-May-2006
3:39:41 PM

A few questions.

Anyone have some ideas for classic trad climbing in eastern and northeastern ontario. Is there any?

Also, any standout alpine routes in the Rockies that you'd recommend. I'm thinking of routes in the vein of the Regular North Face of Athabasca (III 5.4). How similar is the widely commented on poor rock in the Rockies comparable with NZ weetbix? Is it really any worse?

Oh, I'll be there from June til late september.

I'm sure I'll find out more when I'm over there.
cheers
owain.

Chuck Norris

5-May-2006
5:58:23 PM

in the canadian rockies, there are a number of great alpine rock routes in the 'bugaboos'. Unlike the rest
of teh rockies its granite so no weetbix nightmares (just watch out for the lightening)

rod

5-May-2006
7:43:02 PM

i'll send an email to crankin jim franken and see what he suggests. apparently stugang is right on with bugs, i'll be there next feb heli-skiing but jim tells me i'll be re-booking for summer flights as soon as i see it.

are your contact details on chockstone up to date, if so i'll send your email address on.

Duncan

5-May-2006
9:03:51 PM

Owain, there's an article in the Autumn 2005 edition of The Climber about climbing in the rockies. Looks sweet. Let me know if you would like a copy. You'll be in Sydney before you head off? I'd be keen for some long easy stuff in the bluies before you go.

ant

6-May-2006
4:07:59 PM

Sounds like an awesome trip. To answer your questions:

Ontario - never been there

Mixed alpine routes - NF of AthaB is awesome. NW Bowl on Andromeda is good too while you are there, and if you are fit try the E ridge of Temple with Aemmer couloir start

Rock Alpine routes - The 5.6 on Ha Ling (Chinamans) Peak, Mt Louis has a few sweet routes too

The rock can be very bad in places, but the Selected Alpine Climbs guide book does give you good info regarding that. Learn how to use long #4 and #5 bugaboos, #1 angles and small lost arrows. Pitons are your friend. Also get yourself #0.5 to #2 tri-cams

Drop me a PM if your struggling for partners - a mate in Calgary often befriends OS visitors

francesca

7-May-2006
2:48:44 AM

Ontario, the Niagra Escarpment is supposed to be pretty good, near Toronto, but I was there early winter,
to cold to climb not cold enough for ice. I was climbing at www.rockoasis.com when I was there last, and
they were really friendly and seem to spend more time outdoors than in, they would be able to give you
some info/find a partner...

gfdonc

7-May-2006
8:49:54 PM

On 6/05/2006 ant wrote:
>Rock Alpine routes - The 5.6 on Ha Ling (Chinamans) Peak, Mt Louis has

Hey Ant, 5.6 is pushing your lead grades at the moment, but. Eh?

ant

12-May-2006
9:41:46 AM

On 7/05/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>Hey Ant, 5.6 is pushing your lead grades at the moment, but. Eh?
>

I was pulling on gear the whole way up ;-)

Seriously though Owen, I really enjoyed this route. My notes from 2001 are:

"We headed up scree to the base of the peak, and moved left until a point in the sun where Hans needed to piss. There we racked up, put on rock shoes and scrambled up to a 2 bolt belay (about 50 metres).

At that point, Dan lead off, following Hans and Alan. So route finding was not an issue. We alternated leads, and as it turned out, I think that I got the best pitches. All belays were bolted, and varied in length from 20 to 45 metres. There is alot of fixed gear, so only a small rack would be required (up to a #2 Camalot).

The crux was an overhang about 5 metres up from a belay, which I climbed on the left. The sweetest pitch though was further towards the top. It was a left facing dihedral about 45 meters long. Nice slab moves and alot of fixed pitons.

We summited and scrambled back down to the car, following a cute blondie with killer legs. Nachos and brews in Canmore afterwards

7 to 8 hours car to car."

mtnbear

12-May-2006
7:40:25 PM

http://www.climbers.org/rock/rock.html

Is a link from the Alpine Club of Canada's Toronto Section which describes some stuff around T.O.

Heres a spiel i found about it that describes the Niagra Falls better then I ever could

"Ontario is fortunate enough to be the home of the Niagara Escarpment, a 700km long stretch of limestone. It offers many quality climbing areas from the powerful bouldering in the Niagara Glen, to the excellent trad routes of the Milton area, to the exposed hanging belays at Lion's Head.

New areas are being discovered in the southeast as well as in the north, and Ontario climbers are pushing their limits farther than ever with recent ascents of Ontario's first V11(the Phoenix, Niagara Glen) and Titan, Ontario's first recognized 5.14a (Lion's Head)"

Canada's Climbing Rag might offer some help for you. (sorry about the plug) www.gripped.ca

Look for the link "Climbing Canada" on the left hand side of the page.

Where are you going in Ontario exactly?

ecowain

25-May-2006
11:24:53 PM

Thanks for the answers folks. Athabasca and Andromeda look great! Just got back from WA, been out of touch for a while.

And guess what, in the time I was gone, work in canada has fallen through :-( Ah well, sometimes things just arent meant to be.

Duncan, up for a winter trip to NZ - August ish? I should be up to the Blueys in a few weeks time.

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