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General Climbing Discussion

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Gym heroes

rolsen

30-Mar-2006
8:57:08 AM

We’ve sorted started trying to climb regularly at the gym (only third time), I’ve been climbing for 10 years outdoors but never got into the gym scene.

Last night we were climbing a route and this hero and his partner set up next to us and then when I lower down he (without a word) begins leading a route right where we are tied in. We were in a group of three and the other two hadn’t climbed the route yet. He didn’t ask if we were finished – obviously knowing we weren’t. He steps in from the right into our line and proceeds to so slowly dog his way up a climb (21) that travels the same space as the one we were on. He then sits on practically every bolt and we had to move rather than wait 10 minutes. We found another climb and climbed it while he was still dogging his way to glory.

The gym was half empty last night and there were lots of spare wall. It’s not something I would ever do or allow my partner(s) to do – his partner was to blame as well. If we realised what he was doing we would have said something but by then it was too late and why make a scene just because someone is a jerk.

Does he think he has more of a right to climb than us? Cause he's leading? Cause he has a membership?

Do these gym heroes get up your nose as well? Let’s ask them to leave their egos at home.

PS. I was going to shame him by describing him, his partner and his gear but I’ll let it go – this time. But if he tries it out again.....


Robb

30-Mar-2006
9:10:06 AM

A friend of mine owns a gym in anchorage, alaska and when climbers or staff get a bit too full of themselves they are asked to leave and their money refunded. Keeps the atmosphere friendly and low key.
R

stuart

30-Mar-2006
10:05:24 AM

Clearly you've got a lot to learn about climbing in the gym.

> Does he think he has more of a right to climb than us? Cause he's leading?
> Cause he has a membership?

Yes, he does, and he's right: he's leading a 21 in a gym - that's TWENTY-ONE - and he's pulling that plastic down to the ground, ON LEAD. Clearly he's a superior human being. And yes, you should, rightfully, drop what you're doing and stand back in awe and admire him for the legend he is. Hopefully he had his shirt off so you could see those guns blazing, which also allowed him to slime up the holds you were trying to climb with his body-muck? You should be so privileged if he did.

You should stop complaining and be grateful he lowered himself enough to climb near you.


Peacey

30-Mar-2006
10:45:34 AM

It shouldnt really matter what grade of climb that someone is climbing, 21 is not all that hard as far as gym climbing goes. If he were attempting to tick a 32 in a gym then it would be okay for him to take a route away from some lesser climbers.
The problem with this situation is that there are many differing climbers that can be in a gym at any given time, people should use their " common sense". Common sense is not all that common these days, especially when people are climbing in the gym. If people are rude and push in to climb a harder route then maby their bad karma will catch up with them on a real route outdoors.
And to say that a person is a hero for climbing LEAD is a joke, as many of the hardest climbs in Australia were first ticked using a Slingshot, or top rope setup! Leading only really became a reality when Cams and Nuts were fully devleoped, not when people where using pitons and lost arrows to climb walls.


manacubus

30-Mar-2006
10:54:38 AM

That was the best post ever!


Peacey

30-Mar-2006
10:58:16 AM

Thanks mate, I hope that you are serious. I just needed to blow of a little steam

Dalai

30-Mar-2006
11:10:23 AM

On 30/03/2006 Peacey wrote:
>Thanks mate, I hope that you are serious. I just needed to blow of a little
>steam

Good on you Peacey. Like how the blood boiling clouded your vision to see the sarcasm and humour in Stuart's post! I had a good chuckle Stuart, nice one!

@Rolsen,

they had no right, you outnumbered them... speak up and tell them to wait their turn AFTER your group has finished! They were being just plain rude!

Next time, take a photo of them and post it here for a public shame file!

Bob Saki

30-Mar-2006
11:19:09 AM

On 30/03/2006 stuart wrote:
>>
>Yes, he does, and he's right: he's leading a 21 in a gym - that's TWENTY-ONE
>- and he's pulling that plastic down to the ground, ON LEAD. Clearly he's
>a superior human being. And yes, you should, rightfully, drop what you're
>

this is whay I gave up gym climbing. I feel bad bumbling up 15s and preventing real climbers from reaching their goals. I thinks it's grossly unfair for low grade climbers like myself to be taking up valuable wall space when heros like the ones mentioned have goals to achieve. Thankfully I have learnt my lesson!


Robb

30-Mar-2006
11:38:42 AM

just climb above the offending HERO and lay a dump in his chalk bag.


phil_nev

30-Mar-2006
11:43:49 AM

Which Gym this happen at?

climbingjac

30-Mar-2006
11:54:02 AM

I think that the unspoken rule of courtesy is that it's one "ascent" per person in the team that is currently in control of the rope. Beyond that, you have to get in line behind anyone else that has bagged a place in the queue.

If you fancy doing two laps of a route and someone is waiting on the rope, that's cool, but I think the general rule is to mention that’s what you'd like to do and ask if that is ok with the person waiting.

I don't think this issue has to do with leading – just general courtesy to others, whether you're leading or toproping. It also doesn't have to do with the grade you're planning to climb or attempt to climb.

We once had a scenario on a lead wall where there was a group of 3 people trying a particular route. Yes there was dogging, but in this case it didn't really matter because when you fall of in the roof it’s a bit hard to get back on, so you get lowered to the ground and your attempt is over. Anyway, This particular group of 3 people knew we were waiting on the wall, but they had this system going on where the climber was tied into one end of the rope (whilst climbing), and the belayer was tied in ready to go the second the other guy got back to the ground. In other words, preventing others from infiltrating the wall. A tad rude, me thinks.

With regards to severe dogging of routes – we all do it at some stage. It's how you improve. Learning new moves and so on. But there is a time and a place. Personally, it is not something I would choose to do smack in the middle of a busy night at the gym, on the most popular rope. It is something best done before the hoards arrive, or after the crowd thins down for the evening.

Goodvibes

30-Mar-2006
2:50:33 PM

Love your work there Peacey, you are one sharp tack.

rolsen

30-Mar-2006
10:38:33 PM

Yeah thanks for the comments, it helps!

>were first ticked using a Slingshot

He may have been quicker with a slingshot, maybe if I see him again I'll suggest it, then again maybe he would have fired while I was still up there.

On 30/03/2006 phil_nev wrote:
>Which Gym this happen at?

At Nuna, why was it you?

>Next time, take a photo of them and post it here for a public shame file!

Yeah, that's why I took note of the grade of the climb, his shoes, harness, rope bag, rope colour.... yet I've decided to let it go. Its a small community we have after all

Richard


phil_nev

30-Mar-2006
11:56:44 PM

Wasnt me.... Only been to Nuna's once, didnt like it.


mousey

31-Mar-2006
12:39:32 AM

it was me!! and im glad i did it you soft whinging bloody mexicans! next time grow some testicles and tell me to f--- off

as for you peacey, you should team up with my good mate wyttights for a sesh at the dam cliffs

Goodvibes

31-Mar-2006
7:07:21 AM

lol


BundyBear

31-Mar-2006
7:31:31 AM

On 31/03/2006 mousey wrote:
>as for you peacey, you should team up with my good mate wyttights for
>a sesh at the dam cliffs

I think it probally was wyttights, he is probally on a tour of the mexican gyms for a week or so over the easter period.

Well done wyt-ie - you Mexican DOD Loving Hippy...


Peacey

31-Mar-2006
9:21:33 AM

Name the date and the crag that you want me tyo climb at, none of the sandstone that all you heros love to climb, I want a real challenge. Lets climb on granate, I have a good climb for you/ your mate. Its called "Touch Me I'm Sick", Mt Hope. Its a nice 27 heaps of pro, and can also double as a nice sports climb.

31-Mar-2006
10:57:25 AM

is it really 2 point 7 ?

james

31-Mar-2006
6:40:47 PM

no KP, its '7...

There are 25 messages in this topic.