Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

TOP ROPING

pomyrocks

14-Oct-2004
1:12:57 PM

HI FOLKS,

I AM LOOKING FOR GOOD INFORMATION IN REGARDS TO WHAT / WHICH CLIMBING AREAS & CRAGS AROUND MELBOURNE HAVE GOOD ACCESS TO THE TOP OF THE CLIMBS WITHOUT HAVING TO ACTUALLY LEAD CLIMB THEM IN THE 1ST PLACE.

MY CLIMBING IS ONLY AT A TOP ROPE STAGE SO THEREFORE I AM LOOKING TO SET UP TOP ROPE ANCHORS ON CLIMBS THAT HAVE GOOD BACK DOOR ACCESS SO TO SPEAK. I HOPE THAT ALL MAKES SENSE. THIS INFORMATION WOULD HELP ME GET SOME GOOD CLIMB TIME AND THEN I CAN MOVE ON TO LEADING.

CHEERS AND BEERS,

JAMES

Onsight

14-Oct-2004
1:17:18 PM

maybe someone can help you with your query, but I'm just wondering is your "caps lock" key sticky or something?

BoaredOfTheRings

14-Oct-2004
1:25:18 PM

Maybe he's one of those people that shout all the time?

neats

14-Oct-2004
2:13:14 PM

There are bollards at Werribee and steps from the top of the cliff to the base of the climbs. The walk in is a bit yuck though...

wombats

14-Oct-2004
4:42:44 PM

Kangaroo point is a top ropers heaven...

but that's a little too far from Melbourne for you.

and SHHHHHHH....

Nick Kaz

14-Oct-2004
5:26:25 PM

Dont be so harsh on the Caps-Locks, because everyone know that:

CAPS-LOCKS IS LIKE CRUISE CONTROLL FOR COOL!!1!

sorry mate, just playing. Why not head off to a gym or the vcc and get someone to take you out, the plus's of this are - a guide, a new mate, and trashing someone elses gear all for the price of a schooner (do you have them in vic?). what can you loose?

phil_nev

14-Oct-2004
6:50:23 PM

Weribee gorge and camels hump both have easy acess to the top of the cliff and heaps of anchor points. Camels has double ring bolt anchors scattered along the cliff line, and werribee has at least 15 anchor posts. For werribee, you will need say 15meteres of static rope set up using just the posts as they are quite a ways back frfom the cliff edge.
Cheers, Phil

Robin

15-Oct-2004
6:31:39 AM

Ben Cairn OK for a day, Black Hill has some potential around the 17-23 range, Camels and Werribee definitely the better crags.

pomyrocks

15-Oct-2004
1:19:49 PM

Cheers Guys, i know i could rely on my fellow climbers to help me out.

camels hump, werribee gorge and ben cairn seem to be the go so i'll go and check them out.

Is mount tenneriffe any good. I was thinking about rocking up the next chockstone gathering and getting in some top roping action??

cheers and beers,

james

P.S sorry about the caps locks thing but i just got lazy and could not be bothered to turn it off after i started to type. i promise i was not shouting.

M

15-Oct-2004
6:01:24 PM

There is a fair bit of toproping potential at the you yangs. Big rock, urinal wall, gravel pit tor(some scrambling) all have stuff that can be accessed from above and have belay bolts or chains. These places all have really easy access. There is also heaps of stuff that can be toproped if you have some trad gear.
There seems to be a wide range of feelings on the You Yangs but it is probably the closest area to melbourne and its in a rain shadow so its dry when places like ben cairn and camels hump are really wet.
The problem with top roping at most granite cliffs around melbourne is that many of the routes have low angled finishes meaning that you get heaps of friction (damage) to your rope when lowering. i would recomend belaying from the top and walking off rather than trashing your rope.

pomyrocks

16-Oct-2004
12:10:35 PM

cheets Matt, thats a good idea.i'll remember that one for the future. thanks for the tip and the inside info

james

Robin

18-Oct-2004
8:44:59 AM

Tenneriffe would be OK for top-roping too. I forgot to mention that for Black Hill, and Tenneriffe, you will need a second rope or long tape to run back to the anchors on some of the climbs. Best areas at Tenneriffe would be White Hart block, Blue Day Black Night gully, Eagle rock and perhaps Outside line block which has bolts above Outside line (25) and Inside Out (24). These two climbs were set up so you can hook up a double toprope over both climbs at the one time. You will nee some wires to protect the pendulum on Outside Line. The Playground is probably not suited to top-roping as the anchor system is a bit dodgey.

There are 12 messages in this topic.