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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 27-May-2018 At 7:42:38 PM One Day Hero
On 27-May-2018 jacksonclimbs wrote:

>If that is the case, why don't we have hundreds of easy sport routes from
>that insatiable, hungry beast? What has stopped it from happening already?

There's no potential for good easy sport routes in the gramps because most of the good easy climbing was done as trad over the last 50 years. Good taste and lack of interest in beginner routes has kept the first couple of generations of bolters from wrecking things. Taste and ethical standards are gone now, and career bumblies are buying drills. Most other climbing areas in the country are now getting terrible sport routes squeezed in everywhere. Why do you think the Grampians will be any different?

>Why should we cater to you, and not those climbers?

You should because I'm trying to preserve some semblance of wilderness, and a climbing culture which is distinguishable from the global lowest common denominator. You won't, because deadshits think that their right to convenience trumps everything else.

Why do you want bolts next to perfectly good gear placements? If a route is safe as trad or mixed, why would you personally want it to be sport bolted?

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