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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Easily cleaned 1-pitch 24-27 Araps
daave
1-Apr-2016
8:12:53 AM
Heading down for another trip to Araps in a few weeks. Going with my Girlfriend again, who can't really follow many of the mid 20's routes. Was just wondering if anyone could suggest any good routes between 23-27, preferably mixed/gear routes, that are easily cleaned on rap or lower-off anywhere at Araps?

I've done the usuals - Trojan, Undertaker, lots of the sporty things, Strolling etc. If you have any suggestions, would love to hear them!

Dave.
Wendy
1-Apr-2016
8:29:32 AM
Almost anything in Yesterday Gully.
Almost anything on Central Gully Left.
Out of the Blue now has an anchor. There's a few other things at the base of TIger Wall as well.
Uncle Charlies Right Nostril and Picking Winners
I rebolted Failing new ROmantic and you could run up my (completely classic) new routes on COmic Strip whilst you are there. plus there's a 27 and 28 .
Actually, whilst I'm on the self promotion run, Misunderestimated is 23 with an anchor on Garden Wall. Hopefully I'll have gotten back to my other new routes there, will also be about 23 by then.
Might be getting cold for climbing in the shade, but Skylines wall also has plenty. mysteries wall. No Standing, Slap Happy, Feral chicken, deeply techo. Sandpiper.
Female Friends wall.
I can do some Douglas self promotion - Pygmy Whale on Mitre rock. Cayenne is good too.
Kitten Wall - Common knowledge, Strange tenants, stuff in the cave on the left end (there's an anchor above the 24), Celluloid Heroes.
Jumping for fancy is a mish mash of the routes on FLights of fancy wall that is definitely the best route there.








uum
3-Apr-2016
5:58:05 PM
23-27 routes with lower-offs, sorted (roughly) by quality. Includes traversey routes you might have to self-2nd to clean. Excludes new routes, and routes with easy top access (e.g. Dec Crag).

Anxiety Neurosis p1 26 Bluff Major
Yesterday 26 Yesterday Gully Upper
Debutantes and Centipedes 25 Lois Lane
Trojan 25 Pharos Back Wall
Have A Good Flight 25 Flight Deck
Station to Station 25 Bluff Major
Procol Harum 26 Castle Crag
Ergonomics 26 Fang Buttress
Denim p1 26 Denim Wall
London Calling 27 Denim Wall
Exodus 2.5 27 Skyline Walls
Henry Bolte 25 Henry Bolte Wall
In Phase 24 Kachoong Area
Spasm in a Chasm 25 Uncle Charlie
Wackford Squeers 26 Henry Bolte Wall
Body Recession 27 Grotto Wall
Snow Blind 23 Yesterday Gully Lower
Milk Blood 23 Yesterday Gully Lower
Exodus lI 26 Skyline Walls
The Fortress 26 Henry Bolte Wall
Female Friends 24 Atridae
Uncle Charlie's R Nostril p1 25 Uncle Charlie
Blind Ambition 25 Cecilia Wall
New Diocese 25 Bluff Major
Sustained Metaphor 26 Skydiver Wall
Mass Exodus 26 Skyline Walls
Have a Good Flight Direct Start 27 Flight Deck
Beside Myself p1 23 Skydiver Wall
No Exit p1 25 Dreadnought Gully
Gareth's New Route 25 Tjuringa Wall
Golden Gaytime 25 Atridae
Sandpiper 23 Dunes
Fever Pitch 23 Yesterday Gully Upper
Not Just a Pretty Face 23 Yesterday Gully Upper
Lunatic 23 Yesterday Gully Upper
Finger Prince. 23 Organ Pipes Gully
Intransience on Bikes (linkup) 24 Cecilia Wall
Bad Cheques 24 Tjuringa Wall
Dreadnought p1 24 Dreadnought Gully
Spring Offensive 24 Organ Pipes Gully
Blue Eyed & Blonde 24 Mysteries Wall
It'll Never Fly 24 Flight Deck
Girls on Bikes. 25 Cecilia Wall
Yesterday Left Hand Variant 26 Yesterday Gully Upper
Bolte Wackford 26 Henry Bolte Wall
Bounds 26 Bluff Major
Requited 27 Bluff Major
Bienerstisch. 25 Tiger Wall
Deep Freeze 25 Deep Freeze Wall
Wackford Squeers Direct 26 Henry Bolte Wall
Historic Events. 26 Mysteries Wall
Astral Plane 24 Cobwebs Gully
Non-Stop 25 Skyline Walls
Imagination 25 Flinders Lane
Clap Hands 26 Cecilia Wall
Slap Happy 23 Morfydd
Nose Job 24 Uncle Charlie
Cecil B De Mille 26 Dreadnought Gully
Crystal Vision 26 Rats Alley
daave
3-Apr-2016
6:54:22 PM
Perfect! Thanks for the lists.
simey
4-Apr-2016
12:12:31 AM
On 1/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>Actually, whilst I'm on the self promotion run, Misunderestimated is 23
>with an anchor on Garden Wall. Hopefully I'll have gotten back to my other
>new routes there, will also be about 23 by then.

To be recommending Garden Wall to someone looking for routes in the grade 23 to 27 range at Arapiles surely is some kind of piss take? Maybe if they were looking for routes graded 3 to 7, Garden Wall might be worthwhile.

Wendy
4-Apr-2016
7:30:26 AM
Hey, there are 2 23s and a 22 with anchors there now. Not to mention being right next to Cecilia Wall and Skyline Walls. You wouldn't believe the crowds there on Friday. Hell, I couldn't believe the crowds there on Friday. I have created a mega crag. You are just grumpy that I have made your guidebook out of date already :).

There's another 23ish route to go there but it has a move that stresses my dodgy shoulder. Fortunately I have found 2 other mega crags to develop instead. Just call me the female Greg Pritchard. But you should plan the next guidebook shortly.
simey
4-Apr-2016
7:09:51 PM
On 4/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>I have created a mega crag. You are just grumpy that I have made your guidebook out of date already :).

Our guide is a SELECT guide.

shortman
5-Apr-2016
9:08:59 AM
On 4/04/2016 simey wrote:
>On 4/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>I have created a mega crag. You are just grumpy that I have made your
>guidebook out of date already :).
>
>Our guide is a SELECT guide.
>

Call of the day!

ajfclark
Online Now
5-Apr-2016
9:33:42 AM

Eduardo Slabofvic
5-Apr-2016
10:21:02 AM
On 4/04/2016 simey wrote:
>On 4/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>I have created a mega crag. You are just grumpy that I have made your
>guidebook out of date already :).
>
>Our guide is a SELECT guide.
>

A selection of your own over graded, over bolted routes
Wendy
5-Apr-2016
12:15:12 PM
On 4/04/2016 simey wrote:
>On 4/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>I have created a mega crag. You are just grumpy that I have made your
>guidebook out of date already :).
>
>Our guide is a SELECT guide.
>

With such amazing select routes as America After the Bomb, Passover and Falsetto ...

Good thing people are selecting my new and rediscovered routes instead.
jdb
5-Apr-2016
12:27:27 PM

"With such amazing select routes as America After the Bomb, Passover and
Falsetto ...
Good thing people are selecting my new and rediscovered routes instead".

'They' do say teasing is a sign of affection...........
simey
5-Apr-2016
1:40:42 PM
On 5/04/2016 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>Our guide is a SELECT guide.
>>
>>A selection of your own over graded, over bolted routes

Most of the routes I have established at Arapiles don't even make it into our guide.
simey
5-Apr-2016
1:44:50 PM
On 5/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>>Our guide is a SELECT guide.
>>
>
>With such amazing select routes as America After the Bomb, Passover and
>Falsetto ...

I agree that some duds did slip through. That's why we don't want to make the same mistake again.
Wendy
5-Apr-2016
2:06:40 PM
On 5/04/2016 jdb wrote:
>
>"With such amazing select routes as America After the Bomb, Passover and
>Falsetto ...
>Good thing people are selecting my new and rediscovered routes instead".
>
>'They' do say teasing is a sign of affection...........

Simey and I must have a very passionate relationship then.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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