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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
Author
Coolest features to climb in Australia

deadbudgy
3-Dec-2015
3:20:26 PM
I was reading a thread on Mountain Project, 'coolest features to climb in North America', and that got me wondering what people think are the coolest features to climb in Australia. Not individual routes but the natural feature itself. An example would be the Totem Pole in Tassy. The best climbs are always the ones that travel through really inspiring natural terrain. I want to get inspired!!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3-Dec-2015
3:23:13 PM
The Totem Pole came to my mind first too.
Second was Ozymandias Direct.
Third was Balls Pyramid.
Fourth was Passport to Insanity.
Fifth was any of the 12 Apostles, ... though the pinnacles like those found in the Warrumbungles tied equally for that position.

... I gave up thinking about it after that ;-)
Jayford4321
3-Dec-2015
3:30:09 PM
Burnley Wall
bentobox
3-Dec-2015
6:33:16 PM
Cleft island / skull rock for best roof crack haha.

ajfclark
3-Dec-2015
7:23:46 PM
Uluru doesn't get a look in M9?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3-Dec-2015
7:48:08 PM
On 3/12/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>Uluru doesn't get a look in M9?

I am torn on that issue; desire vs respect for culture etc; and it warrants a good deal more thought than I gave my first reply to this thread.
;-)

How about yourself?
martym
3-Dec-2015
7:56:27 PM
Mirror Ball pinnacle in the Grose Valley is a pretty cool natural feature, and some amazing boulders sitting precariously on cliff edges.
Any of the routes surrounding it would meet te "amazing natural terrain" criteria
PeterW
3-Dec-2015
8:00:51 PM
The original article included chimneys in the list of features, so I reckon you'd have to include Agamemnon! (There are bigger, harder, etc. chimney's, but that would have to be one of the coolest!)

I always thought the Fuehrer "walking stick" on the Buffalo Gorge north wall was an amazing feature. I can remember wanting to climb it every time I looked at the North Wall (even after I *had* climbed it and knew the climbing was nothing special).

I haven't climbed it, but maybe the Breadknife in the Warrumbungles?

E. Wells
3-Dec-2015
8:50:35 PM
The breadknife is not so amazing. I reckon three sisters or the arch at centenial trev.
stugang
3-Dec-2015
9:11:12 PM
The big koala.

Southcol
3-Dec-2015
9:26:26 PM
Good post.

Crater bluff, warrumbungles, nsw
The Moai, Tas
The Old Man Pillar, West Cape Howe, WA
Black wall reach, swan river, wa
Crookneck, glasshouse mtns qld








ajfclark
4-Dec-2015
7:40:17 AM
On 3/12/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I am torn on that issue; desire vs respect for culture etc; and it warrants
>a good deal more thought than I gave my first reply to this thread.
>;-)
>
>How about yourself?

Same boat. If there was no cutural significance, I'd be on it like a fat kid on a cupcake.

sliamese
4-Dec-2015
9:58:41 AM
Cape Raoul - Tassie
One Day Hero
4-Dec-2015
2:17:14 PM
On 4/12/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>Same boat. If there was no cutural significance, I'd be on it like a fat
>kid on a cupcake.

Have you walked the lap? There are barely any naturally protectable features which look worthwhile for climbing. What looks really good are the many 150-200m? high gently overhanging walls covered with solid flakes.

Goshen
4-Dec-2015
2:53:17 PM
For what it's worth; climbing Uluru's 300m faces like we climb everything else (ropes, bolts etc); would be exceedingly tedious after even the first 15m of the same move over and over again. Crimp to rail to crimp to sidepull to rail to crimp, repeat.

One Day Hero
4-Dec-2015
3:20:02 PM
On 4/12/2015 Goshen wrote:
>Crimp to rail to crimp to sidepull
>to rail to crimp, repeat.

How did we get onto the topic of Blue Mountains sport climbing?
PGS
4-Dec-2015
3:58:11 PM
Frenchman's Cap
Federation peak - Blade ridge
Buffalo Cathedral - Edge Of Pleasure
Upper Grose aretes - The Mooing
Bluff mountain - Aladinsane

Doug
4-Dec-2015
5:03:07 PM
On 3/12/2015 Southcol wrote:

>The Moai, Tas

The Moai, although a nice day out, is a baby compared with the Candlestick, which is about twice as high as the Totem Pole, achievable by the average bumbly - unlike its diminutive neighbour - and requires at least one swimmer to get the rope across.
PeterW
4-Dec-2015
9:08:21 PM
On 4/12/2015 Goshen wrote:
>For what it's worth; climbing Uluru's 300m faces like we climb everything
>else (ropes, bolts etc); would be exceedingly tedious after even the first
>15m of the same move over and over again. Crimp to rail to crimp to sidepull
>to rail to crimp, repeat.

Are you aware that Uluru was "climbed" back in the 70's? The route went up the Kangaroo Tail, and from memory started with quite a long chimney. I think the rest of the route went up a water gully. I'm fairly sure there were no bolts (not a lot of other gear either!) as keeping a low profile (orange t-shirts, orange-painted gear!) was critical after being ordered off the rock at shotgun point on a previous attempt!
One Day Hero
4-Dec-2015
11:02:18 PM
On 4/12/2015 PeterW wrote:
>Are you aware that Uluru was "climbed" back in the 70's? The route went
>up the Kangaroo Tail, and from memory started with quite a long chimney.
>I think the rest of the route went up a water gully. I'm fairly sure there
>were no bolts (not a lot of other gear either!)

Yeah, have you had a look at the thing? The 'line' only goes halfway up, and looks a bit shit. There is also a steep wall covered in pockets, but it's huge and hard to get any sense of scale. I think the pockets are mostly big enough to sit in, and about 8ft apart, probably not great potential. And that is about it for glaringly obvious natural lines on the whole rock.

>as keeping a low profile
>(orange t-shirts, orange-painted gear!) was critical after being ordered
>off the rock at shotgun point on a previous attempt!

That sounds way more interesting (and gutsy) than the version I'd heard.

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