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Training Regimes 8-Apr-2015 At 6:11:24 PM dan_b

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On 8/04/2015 Sabu wrote:
>I am interested in what others do as part of any specific training regimes

I started training in Feb after breaking my ankle. This was on the background of six months of minimal climbing (1-2 days/month) due to working interstate.

I started by doing 3-5 sets too failure of chin ups on rock rings on the jug at the top, as fingers were too weak for anything smaller, anywhere from 4-10 reps per set. This would vary from 1-3 times per week.

After about 6-8 weeks I was able to easily do 5 x 10 chins on the biggest jug, and had restored some forearm strength, so I just started just doing them on the smaller holds (4 finger pocket, 3 finger pocket etc), being able to do about 2 less reps per set as I went to the smaller pockets, over the last 2-3 weeks or so.

I had first climb yesterday, bouldering in gym, first since early Jan. I found that I could crimp just about anything, but core was very weak, and endurance abysmal. This has always been the failure of home training regimes (at least in my case) - I would be very interested to hear if anyone was found an endurance regime that can be easily replicated with a board, rock rings etc. Was thinking a Bachar ladder perhaps.

Sorry for lengthy post