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Sequencing videos/website

cameronpatrol

1-Jul-2014
5:27:11 PM

Hi all.
Im new to the forum and new to climbing.
I live down on the Mornington Peninsula.
And have been to Bayside Rock a few times and to Hard Rock Nada once with the kids.
Ive just picked up some shoes and a chalk bag to save costs in the long run and to have my own gear.

Im keen on indoor for the moment for some fun and to learn the ropes.

Ive given Youtube a good working over in the how to's.

What Id like to know is, is there any good videos or web sites that show you how to sequence??
Im not sure if that is the right name for it.
I pretty much would like some tips on draggin my way up the holds a little better.
And how to workout how the line is meant to be done.
Quite often I have a look at a line and think i can put my hand and foot here and here.
then get to a few holds past it and be completely off track.

I cant remember how many times ive done well and then just got stuck, hanging trying to work out where to go and what to do next.
by then ive run out of steam and dropped, or given up to have another go.

Thanks in advance
cheers
Cam

E. Wells

1-Jul-2014
6:01:14 PM

If you get to a technically hard part of a climb and have the luxury of falling off but you want to work out a way to continue then you pull back on and try different things until you find a way that works for you. When you find a way that works REMEMBER what you did. You now have a sequence ( a series of movements) that you need to remember next time. Thats basically what a sequence is. I climbed a slab today that I practiced on top rope. Most of the climb involved me going through rehearsed moves so it was easy and pretty much all jugs. However if I forgot my 'sequence' between the ground and the first bolt I would have fallen a way, then potentially bounced off a small dirt ledge and fallen further down the hill so at the base (where my boulder pad was) I considered the exact movements (sequence) I had to perform to not eat shit. As for 'how to climb' dont worry , it takes time. Just keep climbing and try as hard as you can. Old magazines have a wealth of tech tips , they are not as hypnotic as video. The thing I recall finding difficult when I started was effective footwork (flagging, instepping, shifting body weight over feet etc) but the body has to adapt and this takes time. A good finger injury will help with footwork. So a performing a sequence is essentially remembering and executing the movements that successfully allowed you to climb through the crux (the hard bits) Good luck!

Howsie

1-Jul-2014
6:02:20 PM

Hi Cam, I can recommend Neil Gresham's Masterclass DVDs. My brother bought me the first DVD when I was a fledgling climber about 4 years ago.

I know i'm going to get flack for the next comment, but as this will help here goes, watch women climbing, particularly on something you have just failed yet again. Generally they have better technique and balance rather than relying on brute strength. But don't overdoo it you'll go blind or get knocked out ;-)

Good luck with it all. H

Sabu

1-Jul-2014
6:38:27 PM

Another tip is to climb lots of face routes with no overhangs. A lot of gyms these days have mostly overhanging walls that are good for strength but not for the subtleties of footwork and technique. If you're doing harder and harder face routes the only way they can get harder is by having smaller holds and becoming more technical, which will force you to adapt, use your feet more and focus on your movements.

martym

2-Jul-2014
12:14:45 AM

Watch your kids climb. They'll find the natural way to do it.

rolsen1

2-Jul-2014
11:51:11 AM

The book Performance Rock Climbing helped when I read it many years ago, is worth a read.

nmonteith

2-Jul-2014
12:21:10 PM

And worth noting that on 'real' rock there are usually small intermediate holds, or just frictional rock that can be used for helping get between larger holds. It's something you don't get in a plastic environment. Footwork is key to better movement. Try no hand bouldering on slabby terrain.

ambyeok

2-Jul-2014
1:40:04 PM

I agree with Sabu it can be difficult nay on bloody impossible to learn good technique in a gym. Some gyms are better than others. I'm no expert and my technique sucks but I'm on a lunch break right now and feel like typing so here are a few pointers:

1. Move slow, if you can't do the moves slow, smooth, precise and purposeful then you've probably got the wrong sequence. Again most gyms go out of their way to make this difficult by setting shitty routes. Yes there is a time and place for desperate lunges but probably not on the less hard stuff right? Added bonus of this is you will get really strong and it will help you maintain a good mental state which will really help your climbing long term.

2. Balance, most of the time you should be able to take one hand and one foot off the wall, hang around a bit and not fall. Again it really depends on the route and most gyms don't help. But chances are that if you have the sequence all messed up and you take a hand and foot off your gonna go spinning off the wall.

3. Move your center of gravity around. Alot. I mean really try out how the extremes feel. Grab some holds then shift your entire hips/torso far left and far right and see how it feels, you will need to bend and straighten legs along the way. Do this before grabbing the next hold and you should figure out where everything should be to grab the hold while in balance and moving slowly and precisely. If you've go the sequence wrong, or the route sucks, or the route is just bloody hard, then you'll probably find yourself a bit stuck and not able to shift much at all.

4. Swap your feet. Ideally you figure out the sequence before you choose which foot to place on a hold. But you'll get it wrong. So reach up slowly and smoothly to the next hold, if it feels awful bring your hand back down, swap your feet, try again. The correct sequence is the one where the move didnt feel like shit (except at some gyms where all moves feel like shit).

5. Finally the best advice for last. Drink a lot of beer and get really fat. I shit you not it really does wonders for your technique and sequencing. A big fat lard arse just aint gonna make it up a route without using a good sequence and heaps of technique. Trust me on this one.

Thats about it for the sequencing advice. But if you need any further tips on how to get fat let me know cause I'm sitting on a treasure trove.

phil_nev

2-Jul-2014
5:19:15 PM

Could always jump in on one of these!!
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=123497&Replies=0#NewPost

cameronpatrol

2-Jul-2014
7:37:34 PM

Wow
Thanks heaps to every one for all the detailed replies.
And thanks for the links,dvd and link to check out.

I guess I cant complain too much as im getting better and have only done it about 4 times so far haha.
most likeley biting off more than we can chew.

Next time out will be the first with the new shoes also.

I thought it may have been cheating by hangin on the rope and getting back on.
But next time I will have a go at the for sure!

Also next time out ill jump on the bouldering part to try out the balance and movements
practice.
I figure the boulding area might be good if its quiet so I can take my time to try those techniques mentioned a go.

Since the very first time and then watching the how to on youtube, I noticed I was doing a stack of things wrong.
And on heading back to the gym and trying some of the things id learnt its helped a heap.
even from just having straight arms when possible.
Using feet more was a good one also, which as you fellas have said needs more going over.
And slowing down.
I remember the first time I was scrambling up the wall like a c--kroach with a can of Mortein chasing me, hahaha

I guess it all comes down to practice hey.

Also I'll keep an eye out on the kids and the women, to see how they do it.

Ive only been to the gym once when it was buisy so there hasnt been to much watching and learning so far.

Thanks again fellas for all the info.
Cheers Cam

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