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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
My annual whinge about new bolts at Araps
One Day Hero
31/05/2013
1:03:44 PM
That's right, I've gotten back from another trip and it's time for a spray about the unabated efforts down there to consumerise everything.

Noteworthy additions (no idea when they went in, but this is the first time I've seen them);

Atridae - Almost every route has a set of loweroffs, 7 or 8 spotted within 30m of each other. e.g. Muldoon, Collision Course, Female Friends, Agamemnon

Northern Group - A set on the photographer's ledge, Rap access to the Ledge (left of Kachoong topout), top of the overstarred 14 near Honeycomb, top of Highdive gulley

Random - backside of Moby Dick (literally 30 sec descent scramble from here), top of the 24 R of Coming on Chris (just 2m below the existing rap chain), 5m east of the top of Quo Vadis

Things aren't really slowing down, are they? I wonder what the endpoint will be?
mikllaw
31/05/2013
8:53:11 PM
any new bolts on climbs?
Wendy
31/05/2013
8:58:02 PM
On 31/05/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>That's right, I've gotten back from another trip and it's time for a spray
>about the unabated efforts down there to consumerise everything.
>
>Noteworthy additions (no idea when they went in, but this is the first
>time I've seen them);
>
>Atridae - Almost every route has a set of loweroffs, 7 or 8 spotted within
>30m of each other. e.g. Muldoon, Collision Course, Female Friends, Agamemnon

these are all old. or at least oldish. like when Esther was still here at least.
And what's with your counting - that's 4 sets, not 8

>
>Northern Group - A set on the photographer's ledge, Rap access to the
>Ledge (left of Kachoong topout), top of the overstarred 14 near Honeycomb,
>top of Highdive gulley

hey you missed one - there's one above honeycomb as well.
>
>Random - backside of Moby Dick (literally 30 sec descent scramble from
>here),

again, been there ages - and surely it's just as reasonable as the ones above dylan that have been there since i started climbing? It's the same scramble.

top of the 24 R of Coming on Chris (just 2m below the existing rap
>chain),

now these are actually recentish. early last year maybe. I don't know who did it, but i'm guessing it's the person who put the bolt in the contrived filler route going straight up from the traverse on Coming on Chris. And yes, they are dumb. As dumb as the ones above swinging.

5m east of the top of Quo Vadis

Blame Simey! He and Ingvar put them in when they retroed Jenny Wren. It's actually not bad to have a second set off the bluffs, and that they access the blockbuste ledge side. You missed the really annoying set though, also above someone's stupid filler route left of scorpian direct. About 3 m away from the anchors above ivan and purely there for the stupid filler route.

>
>Things aren't really slowing down, are they? I wonder what the endpoint
>will be?

I think they are slowing down, it's just that you are also slow about noticing these things. Anyway, now you've ruined you stand against retroing by getting on Ergonomics, what leg have you got to stand on? Have you handed in that DCA shirt yet?

Cool Hand Lock
31/05/2013
9:35:23 PM
I would also like to thank the faires for adding so many great stations/lower offs.

Great to do away with those dangerous walkoffs and unnessesary errosion.

Good work
One Day Hero
1/06/2013
1:09:47 AM
On 31/05/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>any new bolts on climbs?

Not sure if the Birdman ones have been chopped, they were on the climb.

I'm guessing that the objective of the bolting crew is to put a loweroff on every single pitch route. Is that what people want to see?
hero
1/06/2013
2:19:20 AM
Well it will make the world safer. You're not opposed to safety are you? What would happen if it was your child that got hurt?
rightarmbad
1/06/2013
3:16:35 AM
Doesn't make it any safer, just more convenient.
Safety is a state of mind, not a bunch of bolted lower offs.

Doesn't mater how many bolts are there, safety is still controlled by your own actions.
Convenience is also a state of mind, it's called being lazy.
duglash
1/06/2013
8:06:34 AM
I was impressed odh by the way you walked off the routes rather than the morally conflicted position of rapping off wearing your dca t shirt…
Wendy
1/06/2013
11:05:11 AM
How's the ruminating about a Frog trip going anyway Damo? There's a whole stack of anchors I think would be great at Frog, we can keep ourselves entertained for the whole drive up arguing about them.
One Day Hero
1/06/2013
12:39:58 PM
Pssst, hey righty, I'm pretty sure that hero is being facetious. Cool hand lock, however, has absolutely nailed that spot where it's really difficult to tell. I'm impressed.
One Day Hero
1/06/2013
12:58:05 PM
On 1/06/2013 duglash wrote:
>I was impressed odh by the way you walked off the routes rather than the
>morally conflicted position of rapping off wearing your dca t shirt…

Hi Doug, I don't really see any moral conflict there. Once the bolts are in, not using them doesn't prove anything. The fact that the bolts are unnecessary has been well established by 40 years of climbers not needing them.

If it were up to me, I'd chop all of those bolts apart from a single rap station away from routes/down the least popular route. Of course I do realise that it isn't just up to me, a feeling which clearly isn't shared by the folks who are arbitrarily smashing bolts in all over the mount.
gov junky
1/06/2013
4:59:01 PM
To hear Johnny Dawes' interesting take on the subject of bolting, see some nice climbing action and check out some interesting camerawork using drones go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPY5hFtUW1o
His views on bolts are at approx 7.25mins

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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