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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

US NPS authorises fixed anchors in wilderness
9:13:55 AM
US National Park Service (NPS) has just issued a national policy authorizing fixed anchors in wilderness, for the first time. The decision affects many climbing areas, including Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree, and Canyonlands National Parks.

More info:¬oc=1

Full policy:'S%20ORDER%2041%20SIGNED%205.13.13.PDF
10:28:19 AM
Really interesting.
A few key passages from the policy :
"The occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel or protection purposes does not necessarily impair the future enjoyment of wilderness or violate the wilderness act"
"The establishment of bolt-intensive face climbs is considered incompatible with wilderness preservation and management..."
"Fixed anchors or fixed equipment should be rare in wilderness"

The Wilderness restrictions in the states peviously banned the placement of fixed equipment of any type, including rap-slings, so this is a big shift.

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