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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
First in best dressed? 9-Apr-2013 At 12:09:32 PM Chris Coghill
Message
On 8/04/2013 rowan wrote:
.
> To quote Chris Coggil "It's great down there as it's
>not national park so you can cut down as many trees as you want."


By way of clarification... I have not cut down any trees at Elphinstone. This was a completely "tongue-in-cheek" comment that I made at one time (ie, I was being sarcastic!). It has nothing to do with how I feel about the situation.

About the crack down at Pole 28, Neil is right. I had no idea that anybody had tried it before. I went down to belay Neil or bundy and saw the crack. There was no chalk and no signs that it had been tried before. There was quite a bit of loose rock, so I assumed it had never been tried (or cleaned).
I tried it for a little while on trad, even borrowing a 00 Friend from Lee Cossey. After a few days, I became a bit worried that some of my gear was tracking through the crack, so I added a couple of bolts.
Eventually I decided that the route was pretty short and obscure, and I may as well just fully bolt it to fit with all the other funny little sport routes at the crag. I had no idea that anybody else was keen to try it on gear.
To tell the truth, it's probably better as a trad climb... as a sport route it's really pretty short and average, but adding the gear placement and ground fall potential (it's only about 4 metres high) makes it more of an interesting challenge. I'm not really keen to test the gear again, but I'm sure others are.
I have no problems with the route being chopped, just hope it has been done more neatly than you did the Elphinstone one, rowan!

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