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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

First bolts

Groveller

11/02/2013
7:44:14 PM

I have read the stick clipping article, but how do you reach a high first bolt. Any tips?

E. Wells

11/02/2013
8:17:24 PM

A hearty meal and a safe environment devoid of hasty judgments. Dont even mention Jesus for at least an hour.

shortman

11/02/2013
8:20:31 PM

On 11/02/2013 Groveller wrote:
>I have read the stick clipping article, but how do you reach a high first
>bolt. Any tips?

The good thing about a high first bolt when you're climbing low to mid grade routes is that it reminds you that climbing is serious and you can get hurt doin easy shit, and to get your shit together and zone in and climb to the bolt.

daave

11/02/2013
8:22:26 PM

Just put in an extra bolt at an easy to reach height off the ground. It's pretty widely accepted these days.

Miguel75

11/02/2013
8:45:18 PM

On 11/02/2013 daave wrote:
>Just put in an extra bolt at an easy to reach height off the ground. It's
>pretty widely accepted these days

daave, that's the dumbest thing I've ever read and I can't believe you're trotting it out here on Chocky....

Everyone knows you never add bolts down low; use the drill to create/enhance holds instead;)

Heh x 3 ;)

rodw

11/02/2013
8:50:18 PM

On 11/02/2013 daave wrote:
>Just put in an extra bolt at an easy to reach height off the ground. It's
>pretty widely accepted these days.

When I bolt I tend to bolt with a stick clip in mind but also aim for a good clipping stance/big hold for said bolt..doesn't always happen that way as obviously each route is different..but my theory is those that don't like to stick clip can go for it...and those lesser humans who are fearful of snapped ankles (like me) can take the easy option......

....the low bolt thing I just don't get.....Ive seen a few that if you clip low bolt then peel before the second you will just deck (which are normally at my first bolt height), seems like a waste of metal...but like everything in climbing and with all protection noth fixed and placed, you make your own decision how ya deal with it...the only rule is what you feel comfortable with.. your responsible for yourself and no one else, stick clip or don't stick slip its your choice.

Cool Hand Lock

12/02/2013
6:45:54 AM

1. "squid" and a painters pole.

2. "go go gadget arms"

3. Muki, he's pritty tall.

martym

12/02/2013
12:33:03 PM

On 11/02/2013 Groveller wrote:
>I have read the stick clipping article, but how do you reach a high first
>bolt. Any tips?
Move to Frankenjura and learn how they do it?

IdratherbeclimbingM9

12/02/2013
10:24:45 PM

On 12/02/2013 martym wrote:
>On 11/02/2013 Groveller wrote:
>>I have read the stick clipping article, but how do you reach a high first >bolt. Any tips?

>Move to Frankenjura and learn how they do it?

+1
(PS; I laughed out aloud at the irony of your sensible suggestion martym!)

Post edit;
In the future, under the floor boards below, ajfclark repeats what Cliff posted above...
~> This is a clear sign that he has not had his morning coffee for today yet.
;-)
=====================================================

ajfclark

13/02/2013
8:08:10 AM

On 11/02/2013 Groveller wrote:
>I have read the stick clipping article, but how do you reach a high first bolt. Any tips?

Climb up to it?

There are 10 messages in this topic.