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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Is Bouldering child's play?

Doug
27/05/2012
9:43:16 AM
What do you think:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/13/sports/ashima-shiraishi-11-conquers-difficult-bouldering-climbs.html?_r=2&pagewanted=all ?
crazyjohn
27/05/2012
10:07:52 AM
Shes a dabber. Anyone could dab there way up a v13. Also, she is 3 feet tall and weighs 5KG's with 1 inch long fingers. All those hard boulders are comparatively much easier for her because she can get two hands and a foot on what would otherwise be a one finger half-pad crimp. She should get a different V grade for the problems she does. And considering she is a dabber make it a D grade. So instead of V13 call it a D6/7. Still, it is a pretty good effort for a 11 year old... Also I think she is really 13/14 years old anyway. Cant fool this one! ;)
Hugh
27/05/2012
2:09:43 PM
There's no denying she's talented... It will be interesting to see however, how she progresses as she does grow....

Superstu
27/05/2012
4:17:04 PM
Her ticking a couple of way hard bouldering problems isn't so interesting as her ability to focus, concentrate, and problem solve, at such a young age. A lot of us don't reach that ability in our adult life!

salty crag
27/05/2012
7:07:12 PM
On 27/05/2012 Hugh wrote:
>There's no denying she's talented... It will be interesting to see however,
>how she progresses as she does grow....
Hope she's not pushed and keeps having fun. A surf coach pointed out to me once that the kids winning all the comps in under 15/17 age groups have usually disappeared from the scene by the time they would be in the open category. Good luck to her, nice to see she gets on real rock not just the plastic version.

Doug
27/05/2012
9:36:45 PM
On 27/05/2012 salty crag wrote:
>On 27/05/2012 Hugh wrote:
>Hope she's not pushed and keeps having fun. A surf coach pointed out to
>me once that the kids winning all the comps in under 15/17 age groups have
>usually disappeared from the scene by the time they would be in the open
>category.
This is one of the main reasons I was especially interested in this story - that and Superstu's point about her ability to focus and problem solve (along with the determination to succeed. (My question is obviously tongue in cheek). Ashimi's total engagement with climbing right from the get go singles her out as a very special sort of person.
When we had a great climbing gym here in Hobart and Barbara got a great squad of youngsters challenging themselves and achieving great things, there was terrific energy that was generated and transmitted to a whole climbing community. However, it was interesting that many of them never did translate the amazing things they were doing on plastic to the outdoor climbing environment, where real climbing happens.
I hope we see Ashimi on routes too in the future.
Hugh
27/05/2012
10:40:00 PM
It is most definitely impressive that she possesses such an amazing ability to focus at her age.. I guess that's what makes great people great, they do today what we planned for tomorrow. That said, how much of her image has been fashioned..? Any thoughts?

pmonks
29/05/2012
2:04:58 PM
<obligatory snark> But what's she done on grit?!? </obligatory snark>
SydneyBattler
29/05/2012
3:47:27 PM
Her hands might be comparatively more suited to smaller holds but c'mon! She's 11 (or so the media want us to believe!!) what were you doing at that age? Besides, v13s arent a series of tiny crimps really close together, she's got to make crazy moves or figure out new beta with even smaller micro-crimps that even for her are a struggle and to everyone else are unuseable. The beta she used for Martini Roof in Heuco.....intense

lwheat
2/07/2012
8:00:10 PM
Having climbed with Ashima in NY I was really envious of her size, flexibility and strength. She has a really good climbing mind as well. Her training was a lot of pointing games and she would work out ways to get around the longer moves really quickly. She is quite an inspiration in the gym and gets on really well with everyone.

and yes, she is 11.
simey
2/07/2012
10:14:11 PM
On 27/05/2012 Superstu wrote:
>Her ticking a couple of way hard bouldering problems isn't so interesting
>as her ability to focus, concentrate, and problem solve, at such a young
>age. A lot of us don't reach that ability in our adult life!

The coordination required in bouldering is minimal compared to sports like skateboarding. I am amazed at how young skaters learn incredibly complex tricks which have potential for serious injury and they do it without coaches.

A young girl bouldering hard problems doesn't surprise me given that the world's top gymnasts are usually young teenagers.

shortman
Online Now
2/07/2012
10:50:05 PM
I think the dexterity involved with skatin is an entirely different thing and can't be compared to the strength and flexibility required for high end bouldering.

It would be like saying that skaters don't use as much power as boulderers.

Just doesn't make sense.

simey
2/07/2012
11:13:12 PM
I'm not talking about strength, dexterity or flexibility. I'm talking about the ability to work out and then co-ordinate the incredibly complex manoeuvres that skateboarders do. Skateboarding happens a hell of a lot quicker than climbing and if you blow it you can't just work the move from where you fell - you need to start from scratch.

In my opinion climbing is one of the simpler sports to learn. You don't need to start from a young age to get good and it has a steep learning curve. In fact the coordination on many hard climbs is no more difficult than on moderate climbs, it is simply that the walls become steeper and the holds get smaller, hence being small and light is a distinct advantage.

wallwombat
2/07/2012
11:48:44 PM
Lucky that you have all that fast twitch action going from being a footy star and a pants man, all these years.

shortman
Online Now
3/07/2012
7:08:35 AM
On 2/07/2012 simey wrote:
>I'm not talking about strength, dexterity or flexibility. I'm talking about
>the ability to work out and then co-ordinate the incredibly complex manoeuvres
>that skateboarders do. Skateboarding happens a hell of a lot quicker than
>climbing and if you blow it you can't just work the move from where you
>fell - you need to start from scratch.
>
>In my opinion climbing is one of the simpler sports to learn. You don't
>need to start from a young age to get good and it has a steep learning
>curve. In fact the coordination on many hard climbs is no more difficult
>than on moderate climbs, it is simply that the walls become steeper and
>the holds get smaller, hence being small and light is a distinct advantage.

Allright. I read somethin else into what u said.

sliamese
3/07/2012
11:39:33 AM
Lets not forget ondras small fingers and light frame climbed 8c+/34 when he was 12, look where he is now.

She'll be one to watch for sure i reckon! Hope the pressure of being a media starlet doesnt get to her!
Wendy
3/07/2012
5:20:26 PM
On 2/07/2012 simey wrote:
>I'm not talking about strength, dexterity or flexibility. I'm talking about
>the ability to work out and then co-ordinate the incredibly complex manoeuvres
>that skateboarders do. Skateboarding happens a hell of a lot quicker than
>climbing and if you blow it you can't just work the move from where you
>fell - you need to start from scratch.
>
>In my opinion climbing is one of the simpler sports to learn. You don't
>need to start from a young age to get good and it has a steep learning
>curve. In fact the coordination on many hard climbs is no more difficult
>than on moderate climbs, it is simply that the walls become steeper and
>the holds get smaller, hence being small and light is a distinct advantage.
>
More big person grumble bum ... your frame has still climbed at least as much hard stuff as mine and you didn't fck a shoulder in the process!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/07/2012
9:15:58 PM
Is Bouldering child's play?
On 27/05/2012 Doug wrote:
>What do you think:

From the link provided; ~> apparently yes.

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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