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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Author
Climbers in Buffalo gorge, Mon 12 March
barney800
19/03/2012
10:29:52 PM
Were you climbing in the gorge at Buffalo on Mon 12 March? If so, this might be a picture of you.

Fish boy
20/03/2012
2:30:42 PM
That's caligua yeah?
barney800
20/03/2012
2:36:30 PM
Yeah, I think so.
gfdonc
20/03/2012
4:29:10 PM
Really?
kieranl
20/03/2012
4:46:00 PM
I think so. You can see the thin diagonal of Agrippa joining just below the climber's feet. The perspective is quite odd though.
barney800
20/03/2012
5:15:25 PM
It's the top part of the route (above a nasty looking roof section) taken from the Pulpit Rock lookout.

ajfclark
20/03/2012
6:16:08 PM
Do you have a wider shot?

Ben_E
20/03/2012
7:13:47 PM
On 20/03/2012 Fish boy wrote:
>That's caligua yeah?
>

At least when I was watching them they were further to the right on the cliff than Burtston's.

Whatever it is, it's just to the right of Bell Boy's Bereavement (based on me looking it up in the Sublime Climbs book; I can't claim any real familiarity with BBB!). May be Highway 61 they are on?
barney800
20/03/2012
8:31:29 PM
Actually I don't think it is Caligua. Just got home and dug up the guidebook. It's the crack to the right of Bell Boys Bereavement, as pointed out by Ben_E. I only have the Sublime Climbs guidebook though, where this line isn't included.

I don't have a wider shot, but I do have a higher resolution version if the pictured climber wants a copy.

ajfclark
20/03/2012
8:38:58 PM
If it's Highway 61, according to the guide, the roof used to be aided. If it's gone free I'd be interested to know the grade and FFA details.

Ben_E
20/03/2012
9:17:38 PM
Sorry, I wasn't really watching closely enough to see if they did the whole route and was too far away to see what sort of shenanigans were going on under the roof in any case. If it's gone free hopefully they or someone else will pipe up.

Edit: They seem to be on TR in the photo and I'm not sure I saw anyone spending enough time on the climb to be leading it; maybe they just swung in on TR and did the last section?

From the walk in to the North wall, it looked like a pretty spectacular line, in any case.
barney800
20/03/2012
9:41:47 PM
From what I could tell, the climber was on top rope and there were a couple of bits of gear in around the roof. I saw a fall or two coming out from the roof as well. I don't know if they got it clean in the end though. I was harassed to carry on with our walk by the rest of my party!
Wendy
21/03/2012
9:29:48 AM
Maybe it was singersmith? he cleaned it last summer, so might be keen to free it. I was keen to see how it would go this visit, but somehow got distracted. I don't know how that happened.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2013
12:22:16 PM
On 20/03/2012 barney800 wrote:
>Actually I don't think it is Caligua. Just got home and dug up the guidebook.
> It's the crack to the right of Bell Boys Bereavement, as pointed out by
>Ben_E. I only have the Sublime Climbs guidebook though, where this line
>isn't included.
>
Nah, (I agree with kieranl), it's Caligula, and you can also see the crack leading up on its lower pitch.
kieranl
20/02/2013
12:37:32 PM
On 20/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>Nah, (I agree with kieranl), it's Caligula, and you can also see the crack
>leading up on its lower pitch.
After further study, I don't agree with me. I don't think it's Caligula - there's no capping stone at the top of the cliff among other things.
Which me do you agree with, M9?

ajfclark
20/02/2013
12:46:34 PM
There is a capping stone at the top the crack caligula starts in, above where caligula goes right.

There's a bunch of bolts in the walls out left of caligula too before you get to the backless scoop and stuff...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2013
1:30:58 PM
On 20/02/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 20/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>Nah, (I agree with kieranl), it's Caligula, and you can also see the
>crack
>>leading up on its lower pitch.
>After further study, I don't agree* with me. I don't think it's Caligula
>- there's no capping stone at the top of the cliff among other things.
>Which me do you agree with, M9?

The formerkieranl...
*This new one is just plain disagreeable ;-) x3
Heh, heh, heh.

The photo is sufficiently 'cropped' (by default), concerning greater surrounding detail, that I am going by old memory now and stick with my assessment that it is Caligula, due not only what you said i.e.;
>You can see the thin diagonal of Agrippa joining just below the climber's feet.
... but also the only 6 m or so in front of the climber (negotiating the foreshortened from camera angle roof), to the ledge/topout.
It is (my guess), at least double that distance on Highway 61 from the roof to any similar feature...

Also, though less conclusive without a wider angle shot, something about the orange streak is more Caligula back wall than Hwy61.
singersmith
20/02/2013
1:44:28 PM
I think that's Highway 61. If memory serves, Wendy, it was super-duper dirty and spoogey where you turn the roof; there was maybe even some guano. Even tons of scrubbing wouldn't make it a pleasant free attempt. Moved on to other stuff.
kieranl
20/02/2013
1:44:31 PM
Take 3. Give me leave to correct myself again and say that I was right and then I was wrong.
It is Caligula and I just got myself disoriented as to where on Caligula it is. M9 is correct and can just agree with me.

TRADgic
20/02/2013
2:36:16 PM
Nope, Its not, Its Highway61 for sure. The left wall of Caligular is featureless, over hanging and red, for the full length. Highway with out a doubt!

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There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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