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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Bangor new world crag highlighted

rodw

13/03/2012
3:10:53 PM

Glad to see Bangor has finally been show to the world as one of the worlds premier climbing destination with Dave Bateman's piccy of someone climbing Lucky's Roof in this months Rock & Ice Everymans exposed gallery.

nmonteith

13/03/2012
3:13:02 PM

Great pic of a bolted bolder problem!

rodw

13/03/2012
3:13:35 PM

You wouldn't know it from the pic :)

kuu

13/03/2012
3:25:14 PM

On 13/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Great pic of a bolted bolder problem!

I suppose you could bolt a boulder problem, but surely by definition a bolder problem is one that's not bolted?

nmonteith

13/03/2012
3:28:34 PM

Well this particular route you can start with your feet on the ground, and finish with your feet about a metre above the ground. It's a horizontal roof.

BundyBear

13/03/2012
3:28:57 PM

On 13/03/2012 kuu wrote:
>On 13/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>Great pic of a bolted bolder problem!
>
>I suppose you could bolt a boulder problem, but surely by definition a
>bolder problem is one that's not bolted?
>
It never was bolted, and was done as a boulder problem for years b4 the bolts where added..

P.S. Well done Dave. Its still a great piccy !!

benjenga

13/03/2012
4:03:58 PM

Nice work dave :)

spicelab

13/03/2012
4:36:13 PM

I hope Bangor is prepared for the pressure on infrastructure and services when the hordes of international climbers arrive.

kuu

13/03/2012
5:02:20 PM

On 13/03/2012 spicelab wrote:
>I hope Bangor is prepared for the pressure on infrastructure and services
>when the hordes of international climbers arrive.

Infrastructure? = Some bolts

Services? = Bring Your Own

;-)

widewetandslippery

13/03/2012
5:20:09 PM

sutho has changed. It used to have 2 bbq chicken shops, it now has 2 tandoori chicken shops

climberman

13/03/2012
7:05:36 PM

On 13/03/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>sutho has changed. It used to have 2 bbq chicken shops, it now has 2 tandoori
>chicken shops

Has there been a mass influx of poms walking home pissed from the local pubs ?

kuu

13/03/2012
7:13:28 PM

On 13/03/2012 climberman wrote:
>On 13/03/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>sutho has changed. It used to have 2 bbq chicken shops, it now has 2
>tandoori
>>chicken shops
>
>Has there been a mass influx of poms walking home pissed from the local
>pubs ?

Maybe, but they'd be more likely to get a Take-Away Chinese meal, with chips!

Superstu

13/03/2012
7:49:51 PM

I can't find it on the interweb, do I have to go to a store and look at it?

Do you mean this route...

So its name is Lucky's Roof ?

davidn

13/03/2012
8:21:40 PM

^^^ wtf

Bloody sport climbers.

kuu

13/03/2012
8:46:38 PM

On 13/03/2012 useful wrote:
>^^^ wtf
>
>Bloody sport climbers.

Maybe we're seeing a convergence that is producing a melding of two previously separate strains to produce a new form -- Sport Bouldering?

Dr Nick

13/03/2012
9:26:39 PM

This one?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21016899@N07/5754751234

Interesting story on p. 12 of issue 199 (online now) about someone decking while clipping bolt #2 on a route as well - armful of slack and popped a foot at the wrong moment. I know mikl has warned of that many times, and I try to be paranoid in my bolting so that the risk is minimal. Still get it wrong sometimes though.

dalai

13/03/2012
9:51:03 PM

On 13/03/2012 useful wrote:
>^^^ wtf
>
>Bloody sport climbers.

Would have been easy to bolt at least...

Superstu

13/03/2012
10:03:05 PM

> This one?
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/21016899@N07/5754751234

Una iluminación muy interesante..!

I just called it Monkey Bars in the guide bcos I didn't have a name for it and since I had a photo for it from Dave Burgess I thought it needed a name. Happy to change its name to "Lucky's Roof".

People have got about 5 days to lock it in before I upload the final v1.0 cut to the printers. (It's a race whether the iphone app or the printed guide makes it out first.....)

Samuel

14/03/2012
8:40:42 AM

Seeig that it doesn't really achieve a "v" grade, it probably needed the bolts so as
to be graded in some way.

There are 19 messages in this topic.