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Goals for the spring climbing season

Mike Bee

13-Sep-2011
4:20:51 PM

Hey all,

In line with recent discussions about negativitity, I'm hoping a positive discussion about climbing aspirations will cheer everyone up.

In southern and eastern Australia, we're coming out of a wet winter, and the forecasts are already starting to fine up and promise a spring full of sunshine and sending.
What routes or problems are you dreaming about as you're training in the gym currently? Are you starting to plan an epic month long voyage anywhere, or are you just hoping to tick some long standing projects at your local crag? Are there any routes you've been hoping to onsight that you're finally feeling strong and ready for the big attempt?

What's getting you psyched up for this next climbing season?

White Gold

13-Sep-2011
4:29:36 PM

Kachoong by Christmas.
Am leading trad 15/16 atm. But the footage of kachoong with the head cam on youtube makes it look easy. What do people think of Kachoong, is it very doable? Looks like you just go along the flake/crack under the roof and then jugs once you put your hand around and up the lip. Is it that easy?


benjenga

13-Sep-2011
4:35:35 PM

Great idea mike..
I am getting super psyched to head back to the summer only, full shade steep crags in the blue mtns. Boronia point, Logan brae and the freezer are three of the best spring/summer fun crags.
Spring climbing goals = veterans affairs and EIEIO

maxdacat

13-Sep-2011
4:36:52 PM

Yeah - pretty doable.....if you can hang of your arms on massive jugs for a couple of moves you should be ok....even more so if you can use your feet. Gear is pretty simple to place before committing and the exit from the roof itself is fine. But is does feel slightly intimidating.


Sabu

13-Sep-2011
4:38:37 PM

I don't have any spring aims yet, not even sure I'll manage to get out much. But hopefully heading to NZ in December, so could plan some adventures there. If anyone has recommendations I'm all ears!

pharmamatt

13-Sep-2011
4:47:08 PM

To actually go climbing, Araps trip as soon as my thesis is handed in


nmonteith

13-Sep-2011
4:56:57 PM

Hopefully do some new routes at Bungonia Gorge! Duncan Hunters new route up near the end of Screaming Tribemans and Red Super Giant has inspired me. So much rock...

widewetandslippery

13-Sep-2011
5:09:02 PM

I have a partially bolted route at bungers. Rap in job rght of gasoline alley. If you (neil) or anyone wants to finish it off its yours for the price of a ride and letting me sink steel. I can't see getting it done otherwise


nmonteith

13-Sep-2011
5:16:02 PM

Sounds good Dave. Where is Gasoline Alley?


Organ Pipe

13-Sep-2011
5:16:54 PM

My wife's preggers and our first little girl is due at the end of Spring - so not alot of climbing in my near future.

I plan to get up to the Fortress in March though with some mates for a weekend portaledge party on Passport.

widewetandslippery

13-Sep-2011
5:26:29 PM

Gasoline alley is a fants route that I don't know much about. It it in th rock alley right of where siblings starts. Maybe below where albino finally goes up? My route is to the right of that. Anchors and some bolts placed down to 1 pitch above major overhang line. 21+. While on topic of abandoned bungers routes has anyone looked at pushing bobby lebretons route to the top? Has anyone looked at the partially bolted cleland/wong line that I think goes right of sublings?


SteveC

13-Sep-2011
7:00:28 PM

psyched on maybe climbing again soon. There is going to be high country bouldering, Booroomba slabs and cracks, horrible Canberra crags and maybe dragging some unsuspecting dudes out for chossy limestone adventures in the Coolaman Cave gorge!

sleake

13-Sep-2011
7:01:55 PM

On 13/09/2011 Sabu wrote:
>I don't have any spring aims yet, not even sure I'll manage to get out
>much. But hopefully heading to NZ in December, so could plan some adventures
>there. If anyone has recommendations I'm all ears!

I have a strong feeling that dec will be far to late for NZ this season....... got totally screwed over sumer and been a dry winter..... get there as early as you can!


Zarb

13-Sep-2011
8:38:36 PM

My goals are to get out on as many Canberra classics as possible. Just moved here and today went out to The Bellfry on a scouting mission. The main route to the top is a really nice looking 2 pitch grade 17 meandering crack, that goes from slabby, to vertical, then back again. Looks great.

If any of the other Canberra areas are as nice as The Bellfry or Prism Rocks, then I think I am going to like climbing here a lot.


mattjr

13-Sep-2011
8:52:57 PM

Well, i've just had a hand surgeon assure me I won't be able to climb again(post motorcycle accident and 1st metacarpal fracture healing in the wrong position). I plan on having surgery and climbing again! I have my eyes on Orestes amongst other inspiring lines and I'm a determined little f*&ker...

climberman

13-Sep-2011
8:59:29 PM

On 13/09/2011 SteveC wrote:

>dragging some unsuspecting dudes out for chossy limestone adventures in
>the Coolaman Cave gorge!

Is there any reasonablness there ? have thought about a combined climb / fish trip there a few times. Looks like good camping nearby.


shortman

13-Sep-2011
9:14:03 PM

On 13/09/2011 mattjr wrote:
>Well, i've just had a hand surgeon assure me I won't be able to climb again(post
>motorcycle accident and 1st metacarpal fracture healing in the wrong position).
>I plan on having surgery and climbing again! I have my eyes on Orestes
>amongst other inspiring lines and I'm a determined little f*&ker...

Don't listen to the friggin hand surgeons! Fractured or snapped all bar one of my metacarpals. Hands have a remarkable ability to figure it all out and get their sh*t together. Just ease back into it.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Sep-2011
9:14:10 PM

One of my goals is to combine more climbing with motorcycling trips ...

On 13/09/2011 climberman wrote:
>On 13/09/2011 SteveC wrote:
>
>>dragging some unsuspecting dudes out for chossy limestone adventures
>in
>>the Cooleman Cave gorge!
>
>Is there any reasonablness there ? have thought about a combined climb
>/ fish trip there a few times. Looks like good camping nearby.

+1

Even if it is unreasonable, I would be up for the adventure as a combined climb/ride.
~> PM sent to both of you.

Some inspiration for the trip...

Boulders on the way in from Tantangara towards Long Plain.

Part of the cliffs adjacent Cave Creek at Cooleman.

... from ancient memory, they are bigger further downstream where the gorge narrows.

Post edit 14/09/11:
I remembered correctly ...


Sabu

13-Sep-2011
10:05:22 PM

On 13/09/2011 sleake wrote:
>On 13/09/2011 Sabu wrote:
>>I don't have any spring aims yet, not even sure I'll manage to get out
>>much. But hopefully heading to NZ in December, so could plan some adventures
>>there. If anyone has recommendations I'm all ears!
>
>
>I have a strong feeling that dec will be far to late for NZ this season.......
>got totally screwed over sumer and been a dry winter..... get there as
>early as you can!

Unfortunately not heading there for alpine action, more of a holiday with wifey but keen to explore some crags and anything else i can get my hands on with limited gear!


Sonic

13-Sep-2011
11:15:39 PM

Hopefully by the time summer rolls round I'll have figured out to climb hardish again now my elbow doesnt work properly anymore........

There are 37 messages in this topic.