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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Author
Ridiculous fear of your own bolts?
Dr Nick
26/07/2011
10:01:53 PM
Perhaps this belongs in Safer Cliffs, but it's a bit more of a general discussion so I'll put it here to start with.

While working a project with a mate on the weekend we got to discussing our attitude to bolts. It turns out that we both have a mistrust of our own bolts, even though we know we did everything right and have checked them. The bolts are bomber, and we intellectually know they're fine. But we still have issues even rapping off them...

It's not a logical thing, but one of those weird psyche things where you have to convince your subconscious that they really will hold. And of course, we've both been quite happily falling on other people's bolts for 20+ years, even manky old carrots (well, maybe not _happily_, particularly after said mate pulled one at Diamond Bay many moons ago).

Anyway, does anyone else get this?

shortman
26/07/2011
10:34:49 PM
I just have a ridiculous fear of bolts.

rodw
27/07/2011
7:39:24 AM
Yeah I do TBH, ignorance is bliss and you dont have that with your own bolts....btw you get up any of the projects?
widewetandslippery
27/07/2011
8:30:00 AM
If you put the bolt in then there is a good chance you are going to be the crash test dumby. Only bolt I've pulled out I put in.
Samuel
27/07/2011
8:39:57 AM
Haven fallen on bolts i placed about 30mins previuos. I would have to say no.
Go out and just start whipping on them. Jump off.

One thing is for sure, any bolt that gets placed is for other people. You really should
be confident (not just intelectually) that they are going to hold.

rodw
27/07/2011
8:43:45 AM
Im confident that they will hold, the bolts are bomber...dosnt stop me worrying about em though...which is a good thing...means I dont get complacent....which is a bad thing.

I always wait 24hrs though before I climb on em (note talking glue ins here) ..I also know thats over kill but thats just what I feel comfortable with.
climbingjac
27/07/2011
9:22:10 AM
24hrs after the bolts are placed, test them! You can be your own crash test dummy. Have a backup toprope line, and bomb onto those bolts. Then you will know first-hand that they hold.

rodw
27/07/2011
9:35:58 AM
Trust me..... I tested alot of my bolts already :)

vwills
27/07/2011
9:59:50 AM
I have a fear for the 10mm expansions we placed in Peru at Hatun Machay- as provided to us by the main developers- (the whole area is bolted with them). The rock was apparently the same as Camels Hump. The nut just kept on tightening sometimes and a number of bolts had a large amount of thread sticking out (on other routes). The longevity would be of concern.....

Glueins in Oz- Nah, though I check the glue has set. I am sometimes fearful of my routes and wish I had put more bolts in!
satan
27/07/2011
10:32:02 AM
It's a recognised medical condition known as mikllawaphobia from the first sufferer diagnosed with it.

The Good Dr
27/07/2011
10:59:36 AM
But his condition was real and for often good reason. I suffered it as well in those days (not to mention Lindorfaphobia and Moorheadnesia).

Eduardo Slabofvic
27/07/2011
11:10:15 AM
The corresponding Qld condition is referred to by its clinical acronym of PTCBSD
satan
27/07/2011
12:08:52 PM
I think you'll find that Lindorfaphobia is a fear of not enough bolts and Moorheadnesia is the feeling that the bolts have been placed too far away by some one taller than you and with a mischievous nature,

Can't comment on PTCBSD?
gfdonc
27/07/2011
12:17:23 PM
Post Traumatic Chris Baxter Selective Disorder?


Capt_mulch
27/07/2011
3:40:17 PM
I just have a ridiculous fear...
satan
27/07/2011
4:34:45 PM
Is that a fear of the ridiculous?

Or just good old Mulch induced paranoia?

Eduardo Slabofvic
27/07/2011
5:34:37 PM
On 27/07/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>Post Traumatic Chris Baxter Selective Disorder?
>
>

Very close, except Back Door wasn't a banana bender

Post Traumatic Cam** Bolt Stress Disorder
Dr Nick
28/07/2011
7:56:25 PM
On 27/07/2011 rodw wrote:
>Yeah I do TBH, ignorance is bliss and you dont have that with your own
>bolts....btw you get up any of the projects?

Got the 16 and 18, though the 16 needs at least one more bolt for it to be a comfortable lead for grade 16-ish climbers. And a crap load of traffic to clear the rest of the lichen, but that'll happen with time.

Got the crux hold on the 25, but couldn't pull through. Need to go back fresh, and then I can flail around on the other two.
Dr Nick
28/07/2011
8:00:29 PM
On 27/07/2011 Samuel wrote:

>One thing is for sure, any bolt that gets placed is for other people.
>You really should be confident (not just intelectually) that they are going to hold.

The intellectually bit refers to the fact that I've seen them not move with a crowbar test, that I know they're well notched, and that I know the glue is good and the rock as sound as can be determined externally. There's nothing to worry about with them, but there's a momentary "oh-shit" as you lean back on the anchors, or realise you're about to whip, over and above the usual. Maybe it's because in this case I do know the idiot responsible for the bolts, but I've never been overly worried about Mikl's bolts.

Hawkman
28/07/2011
8:14:51 PM
I was cured of this fear after a 12m whipper on a 15m route onto 1 hr old glue. When I was falling I though i was in strife but since that bolt held ive been cured.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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