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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 23
Author
Seen anything scary today?
Pok
17/05/2011
5:34:14 PM
I thought this might interest some people here.



The picture is a little worrying, until you take in the background, which is where the palms get a little sweaty.

It's not climbing (It's paragliding- notice the weird 'biner) but it can still happen with draws, or even any anchor. More info about a third of the way down this page.

miguel75
17/05/2011
5:47:27 PM
I saw this and almost cried;

http://youtu.be/oDc2aIunnr0

nmonteith
17/05/2011
6:16:43 PM
Why wasn't the screwgate screwed shut? They were one bump away from being screwed.

shortman
17/05/2011
6:29:05 PM
On 17/05/2011 miguel75 wrote:
>I saw this and almost cried;
>
>http://youtu.be/oDc2aIunnr0

\That was lame Mike.

pezz
17/05/2011
7:39:30 PM
On 17/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Why wasn't the screwgate screwed shut? They were one bump away from being
>screwed.


i would have thought that the gate should be facing down too.
that way vibration should screw it shut if anything
james
17/05/2011
10:01:28 PM

that must be a very old pic. most PG harness that I've seen have have funky shaped auto-locking biners on them.
PDRM
17/05/2011
10:15:14 PM
On 17/05/2011 james wrote:
>
>that must be a very old pic. most PG harness that I've seen have have
>funky shaped auto-locking biners on them.

Agree - ours all do.

P
Pok
17/05/2011
11:27:44 PM
Best I can ascertain is around 2006, so yeah, it's old.

I'm sure I've got some more recent, climbing-related pictures that raise the hairs on the back of my neck somewhere around here, but I can't seem to track them down.

Anyone else?
GoUp!
18/05/2011
8:37:45 AM
Over the last three years or so I've seen similar happen three times to my club members and heard of several others at some of the comps I've attended. Pre-flight checks should pick it up but human error.......
What has made several of the incidents pretty alarming is that many of us use steel maillons that come with our harnesses and the bar is quite thin compared to a normal 'biner (say 4mm cross section width). Without doing the gate up the bar can bend when weighted (and remember some of the moves we bust can pull several Gs)......making the chance of the webbing coming out even higher - thank god they haven't started using snag free ends to the bar as the only thing saving these people is the webbing catching on the thread.
Much like in trad climbing and carrying a set of prussiks for that 'special' occasion - I have also started carrying a metre of 3mm cord when I fly.....its amazing what you can jerry-rig with a spare bit of cord... I reckon it would have helped lower the stress levels for this poor pilot.
GoUp!
18/05/2011
8:46:37 AM
Some interesting discussion regarding the experiences of club members found at the following links - has some photos of bent maillons plus some vid of risers coming out of the biners - whoa!
http://www.acthpa.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1768&p=8606&hilit=carabiner#p8606
http://www.acthpa.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1922&p=9564&hilit=carabiner#p9564
widewetandslippery
18/05/2011
9:16:24 AM
GoUp give a spray on the bungles bolting thread, it would be sure to be priceless.

tnd
18/05/2011
9:25:22 AM
Hey paragliders, don't you guys also have a reserve chute to use if you do happen to fall out of the PG?

tnd
18/05/2011
9:39:06 AM
Although mind you, having read the pages linked to, if the carabiner fails at 80m altitude a spare chute won't help.
GoUp!
18/05/2011
11:44:37 AM
Another problem with reserves chutes is that, unlike proper skydiving rigs, they don't like free falling and then being shock loaded - things just tend to explode into pieces! Some companies are starting to build shock loading devices (similar to a 'Screamer')into their harness but they are still uncommen - I believe this bloke was lucky to have one though when his hang glider decided to disintegrate..... http://adam-parer.blogspot.com/2009/11/cheating-death.html Also his busted bits of glider at http://adam-parer.blogspot.com/2009/11/g-force.html

Dude, don't get me started on bolting and the shennanigans I've recently been reading about retro-ing in the 'Bungles. Claw is a demi-god but certainly not the be all end all when it comes to the authority on when to retro. Don't let routes be retro-ed, regardless of whether the first acentionist agrees or not as they don't own the route. I need a beer (or six) now, when are you coming down next WWS?!
james
18/05/2011
7:16:34 PM
>Although mind you, having read the pages linked to, if the carabiner fails
>at 80m altitude a spare chute won't help.

without reading the links... yes & you have to be in a state to pull the reserve out & through it AWAY from the main wing. The main wing doesn't disconnect if you chuck the reserve so it'll be there flapping round somewhere.
Unless you are flying high tech fast scary comp gliders its very rare (ie once in 10 years) to ever use the reserve.

It seems more common / likely for people to forget to do up leg straps (hence a backup leg strap). Reserve is no good if you fall out of your harness ;)
Pok
18/05/2011
11:59:48 PM
Seems like there's a fair crossover of paragliders and climbers here!

In an attempt to get onto something a bit more topical...

PDRM
19/05/2011
9:02:46 AM
On 18/05/2011 tnd wrote:
>Hey paragliders, don't you guys also have a reserve chute to use if you
>do happen to fall out of the PG?

yes but depends a bit on how close to the ground you are whether you will still crater or not...

P
kieranl
19/05/2011
9:06:44 AM
While I was in Ireland I did a couple of routes with Martin, a very experienced climber. As we were sorting the gear at the top of the second route he found one of his slings, that had been in the belay, was almost cut through. The sling was a spectra/dyneema type that was in good condition apart from the neat cut which left it holding only by a couple of strands. He has no idea how it happened. The rock on the cliff did have some sharp edges so possibly just sawn against a very sharp crystal while under load.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2011
7:39:52 PM
On 19/05/2011 kieranl wrote:
>While I was in Ireland I did a couple of routes with Martin, a very experienced
>climber. As we were sorting the gear at the top of the second route he
>found one of his slings, that had been in the belay, was almost cut through.
>The sling was a spectra/dyneema type that was in good condition apart from
>the neat cut which left it holding only by a couple of strands. He has
>no idea how it happened. The rock on the cliff did have some sharp edges
>so possibly just sawn against a very sharp crystal while under load.

You seem to live a charmed life kieranl, as over the years I have noted that you have come up with a number of scary scenararios from personal experience...
~> May your longetivity continue unabated!
kieranl
20/05/2011
9:02:05 PM
On 20/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>You seem to live a charmed life kieranl, as over the years I have noted
>that you have come up with a number of scary scenararios from personal
>experience...
>~> May your longetivity continue unabated!
>☺
Just goes to show that dumb luck plays more of a role than is usually appreciated.

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There are 23 messages in this topic.

 

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