| Area |
Crag |
Route |
Height |
Grade |
Hardware |
Funded By |
Work By |
Date |
| Brisbane |
Mt Coolum |
Screaming Insanity/Wholly Calamity
|
20 |
26 |
UBs (304 SS), PowerFast PRO epoxy |
Safer Cliffs |
LC |
9/02/2010 |
|
Replaced all original protection bolts with glue-ins. Anchors (Fixe rings) will remain. First bolt is oversize and double depth for easier stickclipping and mega-safety.
|
| Brisbane |
Mt Coolum |
Does It Have a Chevy Motor?
|
10 |
23 |
UBs (304 SS), PowerFast PRO epoxy |
Safer Cliffs |
LC |
2/02/2010 |
|
Full rebolt, including anchor shared with Yoink. The original flushhead expansion bolts with spinning hangers had seen so much traffic that they were not able to be extracted from the holes and had to be ground off.
|
| Brisbane |
Mt Coolum |
Yoink
|
10 |
24 |
UBs (304 SS), PowerFast PRO epoxy |
Safer Cliffs |
LC |
2/02/2010 |
|
Full rebolt by the first ascentionist. It's been 10 years -- about time. New, lower first bolt added with permission from myself :) The last clip is a bit of a stretch, but it's the best rock and position. Deal!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Piles
|
20 |
22 |
Rings, PowerFast PRO epoxy |
Safer Cliffs |
TB, TKO |
1/02/2010 |
|
6 ring bolts, mostly replaced 1 for 1 (2 had to use new hols next to the old ones). Glue used was Powers FastPro epoxy.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Digit Crucifiction
|
10 |
18 |
|
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
5/11/2009 |
|
Digit crucifiction anchor / Rat up a Drainpipe start belay replaced - 10mm U bolts - 180mm - powerfast pro
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Private Investigation
|
20 |
19 |
|
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
5/11/2009 |
|
full rebolt 10mm UB's - 180mm - powerfast pro + belay anchor added 2UB's,180mm - powerfast
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Rat up a Drain Pipe + Variant
|
25 |
18 |
|
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
5/11/2009 |
|
Full rebolt - 10mm Ubolts - 180mm long - powerfast pro
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Herbs In The Fernery
|
15 |
18 |
5 UBs, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GP & DR |
12/07/2009 |
|
Full rebolt (3 u-bolts) plus a DUBB.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
New Day Rising
|
15 |
15 |
U-bolts, chain, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GP & DR |
12/07/2009 |
|
4 U-bolts plus vertical chain anchor, can be threaded with rope. Quick clip to be added.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Awesome Fearsome
|
15 |
22 |
U-bolts, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
12/04/2009 |
|
Fully rebolted.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Awesome Wells/Awesome Fearsome
|
15 |
21 |
Vertical chain with a seriously long 12mm ring and quick clip. |
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
12/04/2009 |
New anchor restored higher up the wall, maybe just a little higher than before. Vertical chain with a seriously long 12mm ring and quick clip.
History: New anchor placed by TB & DK 23/03/08, however this was placed far too low and effectively eliminated the crux of the route (the last move). Original anchor was left in place, and was removed by LC 9/08.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
The Gymp Is Sleeping
|
10 |
21 |
|
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
12/04/2009 |
|
Anchor replaced - 10mm rings - vertical chain set up - quickclip - powerfast pro
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Hate Crimes
|
12 |
23 |
Rings and anchor |
Safer Cliffs |
G & C crew |
14/03/2009 |
|
New anchor. 10mm 160-200mm long rings, vert chain, 12mm clip, 10mm clip to be added. 20mm recess. Plus some work to the flake.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Little Ray Of Sunshine
|
45 |
17 |
Rings |
GP |
GP |
14/03/2009 |
|
Rebolted. 10mm rings, 160-180mm long. 20mm recess, powerfast pro. GP donation.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Uzis On Speed
|
15 |
21 |
Rings, SS chains, quickclip, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
14/03/2009 |
|
Rebolted with three rings, as well as an anchor replacement. Note the route still requires the use of good natural gear.
|
| Other |
Mt Coolum |
Proposed Coolum Work
|
100 |
0 |
... |
Safer Cliffs |
Proposed by LC |
10/02/2009 |
SCQ recommends the use of epoxy based glue such as Ramset 801 or Powers PowerFast PRO for this work and not polyester based glue like Ramset 101 due to the low porosity of the rock. 101 was found to not work at Tibrogargan (similar rock).
• Screaming Insanity: Rebolt with glue-in U-bolts. Remove old fixed hangers and dogging bolts. Patch holes.
• Evil Wears No Pants: There are two of Adam's original bolts which didn't work and need to be ground off and patched. LC made a partial effort before JJ's battery died.
• Hung Like A Fruit Bat: Remove the original rusting anchor chain and patch holes.
• Cleared For Takeoff: In dire need of a full rebolt with glue-in U-bolts and original FH's and dogging bolts removed and patched.
• Beer Boobs & Jerky: In dire need of a full rebolt with glue-in U-bolts and original FH's and dogging bolts removed and patched.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Bosnian Broth
|
10 |
23 |
2 rings, Powerfast Pro glue. |
Safer Cliffs |
G & C crew |
8/02/2009 |
|
Now 2 rings 10mm N&G, 160 & 180mm shaft, +25mm recess. The original hangers on this were getting tired.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Celuloid Hero
|
10 |
21 |
Rings, glue. |
Safer Cliffs |
G & C crew |
8/02/2009 |
|
Rebolted with rings (two 10mm rings, N&G, 180mm shaft +25mm). I must say Herb did a good job on the bolts, the boys snapped one off and spent more than an hour on the first, still to be removed, has fragile sticker fed through it at present.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Miss Kandy Kane
|
15 |
15 |
5 rings, Powerfast Pro glue. |
Safer Cliffs |
G & C crew |
8/02/2009 |
|
Received 5 10mm rings notched and ground, 180-220mm long shafts, approx 25mm recess. Original bolts (placed 10 years ago by LC) were 90-100mm long machine bolts spun into chemset capsules. Shafts had minor preparations.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
The Great Devoid
|
15 |
22 |
U-bolts, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GP & crew |
8/02/2009 |
Received 10mm U-bolts N&G, the lower two bolts are approx 200/250 mm legs and the higher two are approx 160/220 mm legs. Removal of the old rings was not easy, however the first bolt only took a light sideways tap to break the glue bond,due to the fact that these rings were not recessed. The position of the first and second bolt has changed, both have been moved about a foot to the left the second is maybe 3-4 inches lower. Hopefully not too many people disapprove of this, about half a dozen people helped decide on the final position of these two. The fall is definitely directed into the scoop now, the first bolt still has multiple options for the hard man or woman to ground up ascend and it is a lot more possible to clip the second from a lower hold. The sand used on the glue wasn't a very good match in colour this also will see some attention next visit.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
The Pioneer
|
40 |
16 |
Rings, Powerfast Pro glue |
Safer Cliffs |
G & C crew |
8/02/2009 |
|
This received a total rebolt with 10mm ring bolts notched and ground, approx shaft length 180mm with a total embedment approx 200-210mm. I was stoked to see 120mm stainless bolts in place, all except the first bolt which was 70mm. However, no shaft preparation was noted.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Beyond The Black Stump
|
10 |
19 |
12mm SS quick-clip |
|
GP |
10/01/2009 |
|
Stainless quick-clip added to anchor.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Little Wednesday
|
8 |
25 |
Twist shackles |
Safer Cliffs |
GP |
10/01/2009 |
|
A set of twist shackles added to the anchor. Please donate to SCQ!
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
The Great Barrier Reef
|
20 |
13 |
200mm (!) U-bolts, Fischer FIS V 360 S glue |
|
BC |
25/12/2008 |
|
All original carrot bolts replaced with 200mm camouflaged U-bolts (incredibly strong).
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Easement
|
30 |
15 |
12mm Flushhead Dynabolts, Fixe Hangers, Fixe Double-Ring Anchors, 10mm trubolts |
Safer Cliffs |
Uni club crew |
7/08/2008 |
Cost: $57.00
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Fuck Off Noddy
|
12 |
22 |
12mm Flushhead Dynabolts, Fixe Hangers, Fixe Double-Ring Anchors, 10mm trubolts |
Safer Cliffs |
Uni club crew |
7/08/2008 |
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Urbenvillain
|
16 |
21 |
12mm flushheads, Fixe hangers, fixe double-ring anchors, 10mm trubolts. |
Safer Cliffs |
Uni club crew |
7/08/2008 |
Cost: $57.00
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Wasted Days Wasted Nights
|
65 |
15 |
Fixe Double-Ring Anchors, 10mm trubolts |
Safer Cliffs |
Uni club crew |
7/08/2008 |
|
New anchors only. Cost: $66.00
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Foreign Accent Syndrome
|
25 |
17 |
Fixe #038 Stainless Hangers to shared anchor with TCM |
Safercliffs Qld. |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Gearbox Gastro
|
25 |
18 |
Fixe #038 hangers w/ 12mm flushheads, two fixe #211 anchors with 10mm trubolts. |
SaferCliffs Qld |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
|
Original anchor still to be removed.
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Slapp
|
20 |
15 |
Fixe #038 hangers w/ 12mm flushheads, two fixe #211 anchors w/ 10mm trubolts. |
SaferCliffs Qld |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
|
Cost: $73.00
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Slip
|
23 |
19 |
6 fixe #038s on 12mm flushheads, 2 fixe #211s on 10mm trubolts. |
SaferCliffs Qld |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
|
Anchor shared with slope. Cost: $81.00.
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Slither
|
25 |
17 |
Fixe #038 hangers w/ 12mm flushheads, two fixe #211 anchors with 10mm trubolts. |
|
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Slope
|
23 |
18 |
Fixe #038s on 12mm flushheads, anchor shared with slip |
SaferCliffs Qld. |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Sonoluminescence
|
20 |
17 |
Fixe 038 hangers w/ 12mm flushheads, anchor shared with slapp. |
SaferCliffs Qld. |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Texas Chainsaw Massacre
|
25 |
19 |
Fixe #038 hangers, 12mm SS flushheads, 10mm SS twistie, fixe #211 anchor + 10mm trubolt |
Safer Cliffs Qld |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
|
Anchor shared with FAS, existing petzl longlife hanger in anchor retained with twist-shackle added along with fixe #211. Cost: $48.00.
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Crown |
Weetbix Warrior
|
25 |
18 |
Fixe #038 hangers w/ 12mm flushheads, two fixe #211 anchors with 10mm trubolts. |
SaferCliffs Qld |
CC, DR, RR, AG, TKO, RZ, TB, QUT. |
6/07/2008 |
|
Original anchor still to be removed. Cost: $57.00.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Love Hurts
|
22 |
23 |
5 SS Rings (climbinganchors.com), Faders clipnlower w/ 12x125mm SS bolts, powers epoxy |
QUT cliffhangers rockclimbing club |
AG, RZ, TKO. |
22/05/2008 |
|
Bolt for bolt replacement of existing hardware, galvanised chain and mild steel 'fixed' carabiner anchor replaced with stainless clip and lower station. 3 of the original 5 bolts came out easily, the first bolt was able to be rotated under light (1 finger) pressure on a short spanner and then pulled out by hand after 3/4s of a turn. Please donate!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Tombstone Row
|
21 |
16 |
5 SS glue-in rings (climbinganchors.com), faders clipnlower w/ 12x125mm SS bolts, powers epoxy. |
QUT cliffhangers rockclimbing club |
AG, RZ, TB, TKO. |
22/05/2008 |
|
Retrobolted with first ascentionists permission. More direct finish added.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
XXXX
|
18 |
25 |
3 x SS ring bolts glued in with Powers Fast Pro epoxy. |
Safer Cliffs |
TB & SD |
18/05/2008 |
XXXX (originally a very bold route with one bolt and two pitons) has had it's original hardware replaced. Note that it has not been retrobolted (has not had additional bolts placed).
Approx cost: $20
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Troposphere
|
115 |
18 |
n/a |
Safer Cliffs |
PB |
9/05/2008 |
|
It has come to light that Tru-bolt style expansion bolts can have issues with spinning hangers. In extreme cases the nuts can come completely loose and the hangers will fall off. Troposphere, Aphelion and Heliosphere have all had work done on them to upgrade the security of the fixed pro. All threads were centre-punched to ensure that nuts could not spin off. The missing hanger on Aphelion was also replaced.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Carnivore
|
9 |
28 |
4x rings, 1x U |
Safer Cliffs |
LC |
4/05/2008 |
|
Entirely rebolted with four ringbolts. Belay U added to starting ledge. Old hardware removed and holes patched.
|
| Other |
Mt Maroon |
A Trick Of The Light
|
20 |
23 |
5 bolts, hangers |
Safer Cliffs |
AD |
1/04/2008 |
|
Several original bolts placed in hollow rock. Full rebolt.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Herbal Tea
|
10 |
21 |
fixe #037 traditional anchor, fixe #038a hanger, 3 stainless glue-in 10mm x 125mm bolts |
Safer Cliffs |
TB |
23/03/2008 |
|
Rebolt including anchor. Old hardware removed and holes patched by LC. Cost $44.00
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
The Big Bad Wolf
|
15 |
23 |
2 fixe #211 double ring anchors, stainless glue-in 10mm x 125mm bolts |
Safer Cliffs |
TB, AG & DK |
23/03/2008 |
|
New anchor installed (there wasn't one). Cost $36.00
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Anonymous
|
18 |
14 |
6 rings plus lower-off |
QUT Cliffhangers |
AG |
2/03/2008 |
| Other |
Mt Coolum |
Hung Like A Fruit Bat
|
10 |
25 |
bolts, hangers |
RF |
RF |
1/12/2007 |
|
Rebolted, including adding and shifting bolt positions. Anchor had been replaced previously.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Silly Or Serious
|
18 |
19 |
5x SS rings, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
TB & RF |
8/10/2007 |
|
Carrots removed and replaced with ringbolts. Same holes used.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Celluloid Hero
|
15 |
21 |
2 U-bolts with twist shackles |
QUT Cliffhangers |
TB |
26/08/2007 |
|
Anchor for the above climb installed to replace the fallen down tree with a chain on it and the dead and rocking tree with a chain on it.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Plunging For Mudbunnies
|
17 |
19 |
New lower-off anchor |
Height Dynamics |
TB |
26/02/2007 |
|
One anchor mallion was worn about halfway through. This was fixed with steel autolock biners donated by Height Dynamics.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Monkey Magic
|
10 |
23 |
2x FH, 2x flushheads, 2x ss chains. |
Safer Cliffs |
R & G |
9/02/2007 |
Anchor replacement. Rusting mild steel abomination removed.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Cunningly Deceptive
|
15 |
21 |
4 bolts, 2 hangers, Fixe lower-off |
Safer Cliffs |
L |
20/01/2007 |
|
Add lower-off anchor (eliminates rubbish upper section) and two bolts added to route (permission granted from first ascentionist). The route still requires a piece or two of good natural gear.
|
| Other |
Mt Coolum |
Hung Like A Fruit Bat
|
10 |
25 |
2x 10mm SS U-bolts, SS V-chain and SS mallion |
J |
J |
15/01/2007 |
New anchor. Now you can second and clean with confidence, no more back-jumping. Old anchor (circa 1999) left in place to show how fixed gear degrades with time, especially if close to the ocean! (to be removed)
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
The Elite Republican Guard
|
15 |
24 |
2x Fixe expansion bolts, 2x Fixe rap rings |
Safer Cliffs |
LC |
1/10/2006 |
|
Route now has its own dedicated rap station (eliminates traversing off to Voluptuous' anchor).
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Voluptuous
|
11 |
24 |
2 Fixe expansion bolts. 2 hangers. |
Safer Cliffs |
LC |
1/10/2006 |
|
Two extra bolts added (first and last) by first ascentionist. This classic climb is now a true sport route.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Arrow
|
18 |
19 |
4x ringbolts, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/05/2006 |
|
Fully rebolted (4 rings).
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Bridal Party
|
18 |
19 |
|
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/05/2006 |
|
The new route Wedding Crashers actually rebolts the start of this route.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Halva
|
18 |
16 |
clip&lower unit, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/05/2006 |
Clip & Lower unit installed. Also serves SOS (soon to be rebolted).
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
NUT
|
20 |
19 |
6x ringbolts, clip&lower unit, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/05/2006 |
|
Rebolted with 6 rings and a clip & lower unit. Retroed with permish from first ascentionist.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Big Empty
|
30 |
20 |
FHs, stainless dynabolts |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/05/2006 |
|
Rebolted. FHs and chain belay with maillons which also serves Digital Revolution.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Brisbane Bitter
|
18 |
24 |
SS ringbolts, glue, 1x Fixe clip-gate lower-off |
Height Dynamics and Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/12/2005 |
All bolts replaced with rings in the original positions (one minor shift to utilise better rock). Combined with the previously added Fixe clip-&-lower unit (15/03/2005), this route is now
several metres longer and ready for decades of traffic. Cost $102.50
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Idiot Wind
|
18 |
21 |
SS ringbolts, glue, SS Fixe clip-&-lower unit |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
23/12/2005 |
|
This classic route is now equipped with rings and the new stainless Fixe clip-&-lower unit removes the need to build an anchor way off to the side (or to even top out). Cost: $102.50.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Sunburnt Buttress
|
185 |
19 |
SS bolts, station |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
20/12/2005 |
|
The pitch 6 belay has been moved to the left for easier rope-pulling and to avoid debris being disrupted by the rope. The first station used at this belay was stolen so we used harder-to-remove bolts this time. Hopefully this will thwart any would be theives in the future. Cost: $10.00.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Out of the Blue and into the Black
|
80 |
24 |
SS bolts, station |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
1/12/2005 |
|
The belay at the very start has been beefed up (with the original rusty thin carrot left for posterity). A fall onto this belay would have meant serious death. Cost: $20.00
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Trojan
|
70 |
13 |
SS bolts, station |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
1/12/2005 |
|
The station providing a free-hanging 50m abseil from the ledge located over right of the 3rd? belay has been replaced. Cost: $30.00.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Pterodactyl
|
17 |
18 |
SS ringbolts, lower-off |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
21/11/2005 |
|
Fully rebolted. 5 rings and lower off. Ted gave his permission to make this a nice sport route and it didn't turn out too badly considering to rock quality. Cost for this and the direct was $79. Please donate!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Pterodactyl Direct
|
17 |
17 |
SS ringbolts (some shared) |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
21/11/2005 |
|
Also rebolted. 4 rings. Shares some bolts, plus the lower-off of Pterodactyl.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Arrow
|
18 |
19 |
New lower-off |
Safer Cliffs |
GL & RF |
16/08/2005 |
|
Not rebolted - new lower-off added.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Standing Room Only
|
18 |
16 |
5 new rings and a lower off |
Anon climber |
RF & GL |
16/08/2005 |
|
5 new rings and a great clip lower off. Work cost $75. Please donate now!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Pass The Bosch
|
18 |
17 |
6 rings, lower off, glue |
Rings donated by Ben Carter, the rest SCQ |
RF |
3/08/2005 |
|
6 rings to lower-off. Moved some of the positions as the original bolts were in drummy rock. This work cost about $80.00.
|
| Other |
Brooyar |
Looking For The Sun
|
40 |
19 |
3x stainless U bolts, glue |
pending |
PB, JJ |
8/05/2005 |
|
"The original bolts were carrots that came out easily. The middle bolt spun with finger pressure."
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
BC aka Bouncy Castle
|
16 |
23 |
Four rings and a lower off |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
7/04/2005 |
|
BC (the route R of Pink Berets) is now bolted with real pro and is called 'Bouncy Castle'. Left of this is Pink Berets (21, fixed hangers). Left again is Junket (21, rings).
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Pines |
Yellow Brick Road
|
20 |
20 |
New anchor |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
4/04/2005 |
The original anchor placed by LS was 2x 6 inch 12mm stainless carrot bolts with chain links. The bolts were spun into Ramset capsules, and set before they could achieve optimal depth. When they were removed by GL, the glue inside was found to be tacky. This probably means that only a portion of the glue was mixed properly. Beware of capsules!
22/8/04: One of the original glue-in anchor bolts was protruding a fair way. Another was added by MH (45 deg PFH hanger with mallion).
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Dysentery
|
18 |
17 |
5x ringbolts, 1x dynabolt, 1x FH, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
15/03/2005 |
|
Totally rebolted. 5 ringbolts and 1 FH to lower-off anchor. Work cost $64.00. Please donate!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Dysentery DF
|
18 |
19 |
2x ringbolts, glue, lower off, 2x bolts |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
15/03/2005 |
|
Climbs Dysentery for the first 4 rings, then goes right past another 2 rings to lower-off. Work cost: $32.00. Please donate!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
(Unknown - R of Pig City)
|
16 |
22 |
12mm Stainless flusheads, FHs and shared lower-off |
Michelle Chua, Simon Young, Kevin Coleman |
RF |
8/03/2005 |
|
Originally had three bolts, still has three bolts, but they're good ones. Shared lower-off. Please donate to SCQ!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Pig City
|
16 |
24 |
12mm stainless flushheads, FHs, lower-off |
Michelle Chua, Simon Young, Kevin Coleman |
RF |
8/03/2005 |
"This route and the Unnamed route to the right now merge at the easy ground and can now share the same last bolt. I think this is more logical but if someone wants to do Pig City as described in the guide, the two clips remain in the same positions."
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Caves Route
|
300 |
4 |
2 x 75 mm flush head expansion bolts with FHs and mallions |
Rocky |
Rocky |
28/02/2005 |
The rap station above cave 2 was removed by concerned climbers, and replaced. The problems with the original double ringbolt station are as follows:
1) Bolts cut off shorter. Presumably to save hand-drilling effort!
2) No angle was re cut on the end. They were just cut square.
3) Too low. The rope rubbed on the rock in four places as it went through the bolts... It still pulled ok but if it was placed 300 or 500 higher the rope wouldn't rub on anything.
4) Not recessed at all!!!
5) Glued in with Araldite.
This now fixed.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Moonlight Fantasia
|
18 |
19 |
1x ringbolt, glue |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
14/02/2005 |
|
Original dodgy Araldite carrot replaced with beefy glue-in ring.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Bombadil
|
18 |
17 |
Five ringbolts, glue, lower-off |
Safer Cliffs, Vital Edge (glue) |
GL |
31/01/2005 |
|
Now a safe sport climb. Permission of first ascentionist gained for addition of one extra bolt to avoid an 8m runout. Work cost about $50.00. Please donate!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Pommy Bastard
|
18 |
20 |
Five rinbolts, glue and lower-off |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
30/01/2005 |
|
Finally safe to lead! The original bolts were some of the worst to ever be removed from Kangaroo Point. Falling on one of these would be like playing Russian Roulette. Work cost about $50.00. Please donate!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Halva
|
18 |
16 |
12mm flushheads and fixed hangers |
Safer Cliffs |
RF |
4/12/2004 |
|
Totally rebolted. The second bolt is now on the R of the original as the original was in a loose/drummy plate. Cost: $50.00.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Kiwi
|
18 |
20 |
12mm flushheads and fixed hangers. |
Safer Cliffs |
RF |
4/12/2004 |
Totally rebolted. Kiwi now has a bolt at the height of the old drill hole that failed on an unsuspecting punter. A rap station has also been added. Cost: $55.00
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Halfway House Fixed Rope
|
7 |
|
7m rope |
Safer Cliffs |
LS |
20/11/2004 |
|
Safety addition: New fixed rope added from the rap tree down gully to rap rings. Rapping from these rings (installed previously by CF) allows a rappel on a single 60m rope (just! - be careful!), and virtually eliminates the danger of stuck ropes.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Slider Wall Fixed Rope
|
4 |
|
1x dynabolt, 1x hanger, 2x mallions |
MH |
MH |
1/11/2004 |
|
The fixed rope attachment point (two pitons) has been beefed up. One peg replaced with a bolt, and new mallions.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Sunburnt Buttress
|
185 |
19 |
20+ fixed hangers, bolts |
Safer Cliffs |
RF & GL |
25/09/2004 |
The entire route is now fixed and climbable. Many of the original glue-in carrot bolts were able to be pulled out by hand (!!) This speaks volumes against using Ramset 101 to glue in carrot bolts, especially in Tibrogargan trachyte. 17 of the fixed hangers were funded by Safer Cliffs. Please donate!
|
| Frog Buttress |
Frog Buttress |
Debrilla
|
20 |
28 |
2x bolt, 2x FH, 1x mallion |
Safer Cliffs |
GL |
28/08/2004 |
|
Replaced dodgy old expansion ring (sheared off). Added a second bolt & mallion to lower-off.
|
| Other |
Urbenville - Pines |
Ginsu
|
20 |
24 |
Fixe expansion bolt and hanger |
MH |
MH |
22/08/2004 |
|
"Ginsu now has its third bolt, a FH. Existing hole was the wrong size so had to drill another one a touch right, but the clip's still good." 4/4/05 update: Holes have been patched.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Honed And Buffed
|
18 |
24 |
Ring bolts, glue |
Bolts donated by Ben Carter |
GL and RF |
18/08/2004 |
|
Route is now totally re-done. Still requires a wire or two (good placements).
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Chip A Holdaway
|
20 |
23 |
12mm Ramset Flusheads, FHs (donated), Fixe lower-off (donated) with 6 inch glue-ins |
GL and donations |
GL |
17/08/2004 |
All carrots replaced with FH's. New stainless Fixe lower-off added (which also services XXXX).
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Plunging For Mudbunnies
|
17 |
19 |
2x 12mm Ramset Flusheads, 2x FHs (donated) |
GL (bolts), hangers donated |
GL |
17/08/2004 |
|
Old antique Cassin FH now replaced. Long unsightly chain on lip replaced with FH.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Move Over Brussel Sprout
|
16 |
20 |
Stainless fixed hangers and 12mm Ramset Flusheads |
Pete Ryan (hangers) and GL (bolts) |
GL |
15/08/2004 |
|
Bolt for bolt replacement using same holes. Final bolt immediately below anchor has been left in place - take a hanger if you want to clip it.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Beerwah |
Ants Without Pants
|
25 |
18 |
One BR |
DC |
DC |
14/08/2004 |
|
First ascentionist added new first bolt. Now three BR’s in this route.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Hanger Wall Arete
|
20 |
22 |
4x 12mm stainless expansion bolts & hangers |
HDs donation log |
RF |
5/08/2004 |
|
Work cost $29.20
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
The Olos Slab
|
20 |
26 |
|
RF |
RF |
1/08/2004 |
|
The glue from the recent rebolting dried bright white and needed to be camouflaged. Thanks to RF for doing this!
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Beerwah |
Break Of Noon
|
200 |
15 |
Stainless bolts |
DC |
DC |
31/07/2004 |
First ascentionist undertook the following work:
- Added new BR at crux (30m) on first pitch
- All pitches now finish at double bolt belays
- New 4th pitch (60m) added.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Sunburnt Buttress
|
185 |
19 |
Fixed hangers and mallions |
RF & GL with help from donations |
RF & GL |
9/07/2004 |
|
Fixed the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th belay/rap stations. Deleted the dodgy glue-in anchors on these stations and added fixed hangers with mallions as was necessary.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Another Faustian Dilemma RHV
|
18 |
21 |
Abseil chains |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
1/05/2004 |
|
These chains serve both the LHV (18) and the RHV (21).
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Tiger Stripe
|
18 |
16 |
Abseil chains |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
1/05/2004 |
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Brickies Butt Crack RHV
|
20 |
17 |
Abseil chains |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
27/04/2004 |
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Honed And Buffed
|
18 |
24 |
Triple action steel biner lower-off station |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
27/04/2004 |
|
Ross says that while these chains not ideally placed for the route, it was the only place that the rock was okay.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Juice
|
20 |
20 |
Triple action steel biner lower-off station |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
27/04/2004 |
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Wounded Knee
|
20 |
18 |
Triple action steel biner lower-off station |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
27/04/2004 |
| Glasshouse |
Mt Beerwah |
Entrapment
|
15 |
20 |
2x stainless glue-in ringbolts |
RF |
RF |
10/04/2004 |
|
The first of the two original glue-in carrots was pulled out (with a spanner) not long after the first ascent. Both bolts are now replaced with nice rings.
|
| Frog Buttress |
Frog Buttress |
Old Guard
|
40 |
22 |
Removed dodgy anchor |
N/A |
Gareth Llewellin |
7/03/2004 |
"I climbed at Frog today and did Gladiator. I noticed a weird-arse rap station halfway up Old Guard/Perversion!"
Breakdown:
1. Half way up a route!
2. Pitons hammered under & behind detached block! Not smart.
3. 120 degree angle (could be better).
4.1 piton came out easily by hand! Definite A4/A4+ placement!
5. Other one only 4% contact with rock. (Tapped it 3 times with a shifter and it came loose) A2+/A3.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Surrender
|
20 |
19 |
Stainless bolts |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
30/01/2004 |
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
The Olos Slab
|
20 |
26 |
Stainless glue-in ringbolts and abseil chains |
CF |
CF |
30/01/2004 |
These are the original bolts. If you are not scared to death by this, you should be!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Punks In The Gin
|
18 |
24 |
Stainless bolts |
Rocky |
Rocky |
1/01/2004 |
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Wages Of Fear
|
18 |
24 |
Stainless ringbolts |
Rocky |
Rocky |
1/01/2004 |
|
Ross writes: "I have put a mallion the first ring bolt to allow the carabiner to sit at a better angle. If you don't like the way your draw sits on the mallion then just use a screwgate."
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Steaming Wally
|
12 |
25 |
Stainless glue-in bolts |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
15/11/2003 |
|
A climber working the route said "I pulled the bolt workin on SW. It came clean out. Was only about 50mm long with about 30mm in the wall, filed down, no glue used." This is extremely scary stuff people! How many other bolts at KP are like this? Please donate!
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Sunburnt Buttress
|
185 |
19 |
2x fixed hangers |
PB |
PB |
15/11/2003 |
Fixed the 5th belay station. Used original bolts.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Be A Robot For Jesus
|
18 |
26 |
Stainless glue-in ringbolts with double glue-in U-bolt lower-off. |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
25/09/2003 |
|
Some of the original 50mm carrots pulled out with very little force. Makes you wonder what other bolts on mid 1980's routes are like!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Robbies Robust Runners
|
20 |
16 |
Added fixed hangers and mallions to existing bolts after testing. |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
25/09/2003 |
|
The old Cassin hangers were museum-pieces.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Nic Pics Dics
|
13 |
23 |
Stainless glue-in carrot bolts and rap station |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
15/09/2003 |
|
The original bolts were 33 year old, rusty, screw-in aid bolts. Death traps!
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
White Dopes on Punk
|
18 |
21 |
Stainless bolts with fixed hangers. |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
15/09/2003 |
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Gangbang Wall
|
18 |
23 |
Stainless bolts with fixed hangers. Abseil chain. |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
25/05/2003 |
|
Original bolts were 20 year old carrots.
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Tibrogargan |
Lancelot
|
90 |
15 |
4x tru-bolts, 4x fixed hangers |
PB & CF |
PB & CF |
15/02/2003 |
Pitch 1 belay: Extremely antique piton and valve-stem (!) anchor (see picture) replaced with double stainless tru-bolt belay with fixed hangers.
Pitch 2 belay: This was a piton and tree belay. The piton had rusted out and the tree was burned off the cliff by fire. Replaced with double stainless tru-bolt belay with fixed hangers.
Phil adds "There are some ancient fixed pitons on that route that should be left in place as route markers. There is definitely very adequate natural placements nearby that can be used in lieu of clipping these historical relics. Please do not remove."
|
| Glasshouse |
Mt Ngungun |
Present And Accounted For
|
20 |
19 |
Stainless ring bolts, Ramset 801 |
LS |
LS & PB |
17/02/2002 |
|
The original route was bolted in Jan 1998 with standard Ramset stainless 12mm dynabolts which do not leave much thread to work with when you try to do them up. This led to the crux hanger falling off as someone climbed past it (eek!). The top anchor was also too low on the ledge (bad drag), so a double ring anchor was placed higher. Unfortunately, one ring did not cure and was removed the same day. That hole should be patched and another ring installed.
|
| Brisbane |
Kangaroo Point |
Chubba Chips Mods
|
20 |
19 |
Abseil chains |
RF with help from ad hoc donations |
RF |
1/01/2002 |
