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*** On The Prow By Tim Haasnoot  7/24/2014
On The Prow Click Image To Enlarge   
Gerhard Deiter coming oh so close to the second ascent of "On The Prow" 27, at Hoppy's Cave, Bulahdelah, NSW.

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Comments  

User Comments
maxdacat
7/24/2014
****
Nice looking crag! 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/24/2014
**
Another overbolted* sport route, makes picture gallery?
Where are the adventure photos from those out doing that style of route?


Given the caption, "coming oh so close to the second ascent" it might have been a better pic if it captured the fall!?
As it stands I like the angle it is taken from and would have given another star if I could see the belayer fully in-frame.


(* 9 bolts in 10 m, maybe 12 m to allow for fore-shortened start to the climb of photo-visible climbing). 
maxdacat
7/24/2014
M9 - the crag says 9 bolts in 20m but don't let the facts get in the way of a good spray :p 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/24/2014
@ maxdacat
"M9 - the crag says 9 bolts in 20m but don't let the facts get in the way of a good spray :p"

The topout was a doddle?
What is 'The Crag'?
Heh, heh, heh.
~> I am only going by what I can see in the photo as put up for viewing and the site asking for a comment/critique? andallthat??
~> ~> Have edited, by emboldening my critique accordingly...
;-)

... I have never climbed there & besides, at grade 27, it is 5 or 6 grades harder than I have ever climbed (other than aid), so well done to any who have ascended it; though I hope with the close bolt spacing, they remember it in years to come as something memorable in the total scheme of their climbing... 

Loz and Tim
7/24/2014
It may not be clear in the pic, but the ground is only 4 or so metres away on the first horizontal part of the climb, hence the close bolts. You can skip them if you like :-) 

Snacks
7/24/2014
****
Size of belayer in frame shows the height fairly well.

Almost looks like Nowra. If you framed Gerd in top right of photo would you
get some of the exposure from the cave?

Nice looking line Tim. Good effort on the FA. Looks sandbagged. :P 
White Trash
7/24/2014
**
looks like roped bouldreing. 
martym
7/24/2014
****
Come on M9 - this has got everything you usually love - great contrast of
rope vs climber and rope; you can clearly see where he's going; you can
see the Belayer - why the harsh critique?
And where exactly would you place gear on this "adventure"?

That said, it does kinda resemble a boulder problem.. would of loved to see
some expression in the climbers face or an action shot emphasizing the
grade; as well as if the photographer could take a step back and give a bit
more view of the cave (and the belayer for M9) 
Pommy
7/24/2014
****
Gerd is over 3 metres tall, so it kind messes with the scaling a bit 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/25/2014
@ martym Come on M9 - this has got everything you usually love - great contrast of rope vs climber and rope; you can clearly see where he's going; you can see the Belayer - why the harsh critique?
And where exactly would you place gear on this "adventure"?


Re rope. There is a lot of extra rope in the photo that distracts the eye of a critic*!

(* If a photo makes it to Gallery status, and has a star system for rating of them, then it becomes a photo-judging 'competion of sorts' by default, & that is the basis of all the comments re same I have made over the years. This instead of simply looking at any presented subject, simply as a climber, and responding emotionally re how much/little it inspires me).

... Back to rope; It looks to me like Gerhard started out on doubles then untied the blue line (due rope-drag?), as it hangs down in two locations. If it is not his, and therefore part of this ascent, then it is unnecessary clutter both visually and to 'the story' that the photograph portrays.
Not to mention the (photographers stabilisation?) lines in top right of frame also distracting the eye.

Yes we can see where he is going but to my mind, there is no balance to the photo in that aspect.
It would have been better taken as a wider frame, as the extra dimension would have included belayers feet and also provided more balanced distance for climber to ascend to; ie I can't help but think that the highest draw he is climbing towards is not the end of the climb, ... and given the scale of the climb, it doesn't do it justice.

Re ' place gear on this "adventure" '
I am not suggesting the climb be done as trad though it does look to me like it could be aided at a medium level of grade difficulty, perhaps M4/M5 depending on rock quality. I only mention this (not to suggest aiding it), to support my belief that it would take enough gear into it to achieve doing it in clean-aid style.
It would be an adventure done in that fashion due spaced and finangly bodyweight stuff likely involved in a couple of places...
( ~> ... and as we know, historically most aid ascents eventually get freed! Heh, heh, heh).
;-)

Considering the pro options further, I also suggest that the original bolting of that route likely involved placing gear (shock horror!), in close vicinity to the line (adequate for trad??), to enable staying close enough to the rock to apply pressure to the drill!!


(Posted Comment edit);
Upon further consideration, even if I was to respond to this photo at a gut emotional level instead of judging it objectively, the first things that stand out to me about it are;
* Good to be able to see the climber easily as compared to last Gallery Pic.
* Beggar me, there are an awful lot of bolts.
* Why was the belayer cut in half?
~> with the result that I probably would have been equally harsh in star allocation to it...
☺ 

Loz and Tim
7/25/2014
M9, a few incorrect assumptions.
* Gerhard leading on 1 rope, other gear in background from other climbers. Could have edited it out. Hard when the place is busy.
* Line bolted without any trad gear. Some small threaders used and several raps from above.
* Go for a trad ascent in the cave, that would be awesome! And clip every 3rd bolt and see how you fair.

I take on the feedback, didn't use my wide angle lens as I have done plenty of shots (see my Flickr acc) with it in the cave and was after something different, wanted to show some depth of field with the "prow" feature. Capturing the belayer in full would have looked better and a bit more of the cave/route also.

I now have a better understanding of what pic of the week means. I just thought it was for non pro photographers to show off a few pics, unaware of the critiquing. It would appear there aren't to many submissions as sometimes it appears like pic off the month or more. Surely more people are out there taking worthy pics every weekend. 

Duang Daunk
7/26/2014
*
@ I just thought it was for non pro photographers to show off a few pics.

It is.
Yours fits right in.

@ Go for a trad ascent in the cave, that would be awesome!

Didn't you read the bit where M9 admitted he can't trad climb the grade required?

Been a while since I have been there. How is the access these days? 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/26/2014
@ Loz and Tim "the ground is only 4 or so metres away on the first horizontal part of the climb, hence the close bolts. You can skip them if you like :-)
&
And clip every 3rd bolt and see how you fair.


It seems DD has half responded for me, ... but maybe I can return the thought sentiment myself by saying, 'Try climbing grade M6 or harder some time!'
Heh, heh, heh.
~> It is all a game. Enjoying it is the main thing!

The above is getting off topic, so getting back on track...
@ I just thought it was for non pro photographers to show off a few pics, unaware of the critiquing.

~> At one level you are right, so perhaps I take it all too seriously. ☺

Your thoughts are supported by the latest revision of 'submission-criteria' being (Quote);
'Every so often Chockstone selects a recent picture taken by our members to be awarded the illustrious distinction of appearing in the "Photo Gallery". All photos are most welcome.'

The above is different to what I last read there (quite a while ago), which was something along the lines of 'if you have an exceptional photo, please consider submitting it in the following format, blah, blah, etc...'

Cheers.
Idra~>M9


 

Big G
7/29/2014
***
I don't particularly love this photo but i think it shows the prow feature well. Many of the comments above are valid but some are way too harsh.

The main reason for making a comment at all is to point out the changing standards for pic of the week.

Everyone commenting here should look at the back catalogue in the gallery and order by the number of stars. There are some very good photos with 4 or 5 stars, many better than this one, but there is also a lot of fairly average stuff too. You will also notice that most of the 5 star photos are from circa 2005 and in recent years everyone who puts a pic up gets smashed. Perhaps thats why people aren't submitting so many pics? 
Jayford4321
7/29/2014
***
Nice pic.
Makes Nowra look good. 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/29/2014
@ Big G in recent years everyone who puts a pic up gets smashed. perhaps thats why people aren't submitting so many pics?

True about the 'smash', but this, like many Chocky threads, is a morph/wax-wane/affair over the years, and is largely dependent on the nature of those who post to the threads, or 'photo gallery comments' in this case.

I have participated in commenting on Photo Gallery since inception, and have noticed that there is often a dearth of photos presented, and this occurred long before the 'smash element' arose.
To be fair to Site Author, he can only work with what he is presented with.

I think it was a cyclic thing where photographers waxed and waned in enthusiasm, and then the Site Author got distracted with other things for a while, and many Photo Gallery subjects tended to become stale.

I am aware of a number of 'second-rate' photos that have been submitted for Gallery Picture status that never made it to presentation page. Maybe that cruelled the enthusiasm of those photographers? In any event, I suspect that the main reason not many photos come up for review, is more closely aligned to the fact of keen photographers being a minority within the Chockstone membership.

 
ropedonkey
7/31/2014
Not commenting on the picture but continuing with big G's
commentary. Why does everyone's brain default to a basic
sledge. To me it's like a school yard bully tactics. Someone
starts the ball rolling and the attack dogs start!
Gareth is right, why would Tim post another picture.
Why would he write another guide book etc..
How about all the nay sayers out there get off your lazy ass and
do something other than whinge and whine.. 

MrsM10iswhereitsat.
8/1/2014
**
I like the photo, but agree with Mr M9 that it seems overbolted in the photo.
Yoo hoo Mr ropedonkey. Derek my M10 love and I have taken this bit of your pseudo critique to heart dearie;
"get off your lazy ass and do something"
And as a consequence we are going to go and clean-aid climb it to see if Mr M9's grade expectation is true, though I must admit beforehand, his assessment of other routes we have done is pretty close to the mark. 
ropedonkey
8/1/2014
My comments were more in line with take pictures and get
them out there...
Judge the picture not how many bolts are in it.
You don't say of a skiing picture nice photo but it would be better if they were riding Atomic skis.
Surfing picture great photo pity the tide is so low.. 

Duang Daunk
8/4/2014
ropedonkey wrote;
"Judge the picture not how many bolts are in it.
You don't say of a skiing picture nice photo but it would be better if they were riding Atomic skis.
Surfing picture great photo pity the tide is so low.."

The bolts are in the picture? They then become part of what is judged?
Comes down to the mindset of who is judging eh bro?
BtW, I prefer Fischer skis, and low tide barrels. 
One Day Hero
8/6/2014
***
The route looks pretty good, although I've heard that these caves all reek of goat shit and piss which would have to strip off a star. It is funny that everyone is estimating the bolt spacing on the assumption that Gerd is a normal sized human being. 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/8/2014
@ stugang;
"Damo

On that assessment I am expecting your next rating of The Hole to be 4.5 stars.

Thanks mate it's good to know who's got your back in this bickering world."


Hey climbing-cobber, when are you going to submit a picture* of The Hole?
Forgive my ignorance, but I gather this is a reference to a climbing location adjacent to Adelaide, and not your 'screen saver pic' of a green and mossy Nowra-similarness, ... such as you mentioned a while back?

(* This might conjure some interesting criticism?
Heh, heh, heh).
☺ 

Climboholic
8/11/2014
****
The cave is not an easy place to take good photos. Take it from the back of the cave to show some exposure and you end up with a silhouette, take it from the ground and you get a bum shot, take it when the climber is too low and you can't appreciate the length, too wide and you can't see the difficulty of the climb, etc.

I think Tim has done well to capture the subject, it's just not a very photogenic location. 

 

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