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*** Ain't No Sunshine By Nick Le Baut  14/05/2014
Ain't No Sunshine Click Image To Enlarge   
George Broadfoot on a textbook ascent of "Ain't No Sunshine". South Central, Nowra.

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Comments  

User Comments
maxdacat
14/05/2014
****
Nice shot....anything that makes Nowra look appealing is automatically
worth a few stars :p 

Miguel75
14/05/2014
***
Looks like a fun climb. I like the look of the rock though not the chalk
stains:) 

Big G
14/05/2014
****
Cool bit of action nick. I love the way you can see the
movement in the rope as the belayer pays out for the
clip.who is the belayer by the way...looks familiar
 

stugang
15/05/2014
***
The foto is doing my head in. I remember it being a left to right route - or
is it the angle or is it my brain being miswired.

Other than that I think that George should try crimping less. It may feel
more insecure in the short term but in the long term the benefits of
sponsorship and Mediterranean trips deep water soloing with semi
naked eastern european rock chicks will hopefully make you see the error of
your crimping ways.

Post edit: Ok now that the mods are playing silly buggers with me, as I have often done with them; and editing my posts by reinstating my star allocation, I'll tell you what I really think. I think Miguel is in serious need of therapy. How can anyone look at this pic and think "fun". 

Nick Da Frog
15/05/2014
Big_G, Luke Mc Gill is the belayer.
Stugang, the route goes right to left 

deadbudgy
15/05/2014
Nice Volley's ;) 
martym
15/05/2014
****
Agree with Miguel, real shame about the chalk - looks filthy.
Great action shot though - love the expression.
re the volleys - the belayer looks like he's on his way to play tennis & just
happened to look up and see a rope dangling from a climber.!. 
Olbert
15/05/2014
****
It's not the chalk which is making the rock look ugly - it's the rock - its
ugly.

Nick, you've done well to make it look like it's the chalk making the rock
look ugly and not the other way around. 
gbro
15/05/2014
Like many people, south central has an inner beauty that is only
uncovered in time. As for the chalk... well its just stands out
more because the rock is brown. Its fantastic climbing. We
dont all have victoria range in our backyards! 

stugang
16/05/2014
*****
Thanks for confirming my senility Mr Frog. I reckon its been 20 years since
i've been there (and was a belay bunny for someone trying that
route....over and over and over and over again:) 
spicelab
17/05/2014
Why is he crimping the rest 'jug'? 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/05/2014
*
Since stugang is being seriously nice with his comments for this photo; I suppose it is
my turn to take on the role of one of the grumpy old farts on the balcony of the
muppet theatre...

Despite the fact that the photographic angle is good, the pic is sharp, the clipping
action crisp, the colour contrast of the T-shirts vs the drab earth floor vs the
'enhanced' rock colouring making for 'interest', and the belayer is wearing Dunlop
Volleys, I don't like it!

I don't like it because it is an over-bolted spurt route, at a non-descript & to close to
urban pseudo-cliff, that gets climbing media hype attention way out of proportion to
its climbing status; and it is a classic example of climber chalk vandalism of an
otherwise natural environment.
Apart from that, there is no grade given for the climb, the belayer is not named in the
caption (and that information had to be prised out of the photographer), plus there is
no helmet visible in the pic.
What kind of example is this setting for the kiddies, ... or for professional photo
presentation; I ask you!

Probably the greatest failing of the photo; ... is that it depicts something that I am
never ever likely to ever be able to get up by free-climbing means; ... so that really
sours it for me.




















(With none of the negative aspects, I might have considered 3 stars for it...
.heh ,heh ,heH
)


~> Those who notice such things might have picked up on the fact that I
wrote my heh's back to front to celebrate this contrary post.
Ok, I have had my turn, next up is-

;-P 
climber-90
21/05/2014
looks good 

Duang Daunk
22/05/2014
I agree with deadbudgie's and climber90's star ratings, despite their words, as it is Nowra for f***s sake.
If the routes were twice the length at the inflated grades they have, then I might consider them starting to be worthwhile. As it is, you just start enjoying them, and they is all ova rova, as sed by tha ruff local bitch. 

Nick Da Frog
3/07/2014
Hehe, looks like Volleys are good for climbing, make you climb "low" 30's apparently... Yep, even combined with the polo shirt. The man is quite but he can crush... 

 

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