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***** Cacophonic Crack By Phil Box  16/12/2013
Cacophonic Crack Click Image To Enlarge   
Sam May aid climbing Cacophonic Crack (Aid grade M2, free grade 21), at Disabled Lookout area of Mt Buffalo.

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Comments  

User Comments

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2013
The most recent guidebook description says of this climb: "How much suffering can one climb pack into 15m?"

However; ... this off-width line has seen the full circle of ascent-styles from its original ascent in 1974 by Ian Thomas and John Fantini involving 2 aids, then later freed by Henry Barber in 1975; to being a popular top-rope problem for many years after. In more recent times it has seen a revival as an interesting clean-aid problem involving stacked hexes, or more easily done on tube-chocks.

It is a worthy trifecta at M2 for clean-aid aspirants to bag this route and its adjacent thinner companions, Thanksgiving Crack (M3), and The Cream Machine (M4). 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/12/2013
Further photos taken during that ascent...








~> Link to the Trip Reports that include this particular ascent; amongst others, done that weekend. 

phillipivan
17/12/2013
No photos of him standing on a cam? 

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/12/2013
@ pi "No photos of him standing on a cam?"

It would seem that arrangement didn't last long enough to photograph, though I was impressed by sbm's audacity in trying that technique! 

Stugang
18/12/2013
*****
The pic is boring as batshit - which is why I give it 5 stars as it captures perfectly the
essence of aiding a well protected slot.

Should be called Catatonic Crack. 

White Trash
26/12/2013
*****
aid climbing at disabled lookout area of mt buffalo?
thats a pun right?

good pic an nice scenery. 

Duang Daunk
7/01/2014
*****
Much as I am not into aid climbing, I have to admit the photos are half interesting because they make me curious about the route. 
simone
9/01/2014
*****
Love the birds-nest hairdo, bushy eyebrows and bondage-ettriers dress sense.
Who is Sam when not being a very photogenic climber, and where can I get a latte with him? 

gordoste
16/01/2014
****
Have had a couple of plays on this on toprope, and it is nails!
Managed to dog my way up to 2/3 height but once it gets too wide for a fist I am buggered!
Highly recommend checking it out if you learnt to climb in a gym... 

Duang Daunk
5/02/2014
Why didn't my favourite porn star simey get an appearance in photo format for that weekend?
He reckons he was there so this is an unacceptable oversight, which I guess, gives others a shot at glory.
 

 

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