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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Topic Date User
Buffalo aid-climbing w/end for newbies to the game Wednesday, 10 March 2010 At 5:31:08 PM brendan
Message
i had epic fun at buffalo on the weekend, was intending to head down there thursday night and head back monday (long weekend) ended up going down on friday after work. It pissed rain all friday night, Saturday was ok weather though but was supposed to rain, i hung out abit, went for a walk, did a tour of the chalet waiting for the rain....... it never came, by 3pm decided the rain had forgot to show up and i would go through with the original plan of soloing ozzy direct, i walked my haul bag, ledge and ropes to defender rap station and headed down. It had been raining at buff, alot. By the time i had made it to the next rap station my ropes were soaked and i was too. Two more raps and i was back on the ground realising this was maybe not the best time to be climbing on the north wall. I still wanted to try though and rapped down the gully (which was a waterfall) to the base of ozzy. First pitch was soaked wet, just like me. I changed shoes and shirt and started up the first aid bolts, got to the free moves and couldnt do them as the holds where to wet. Back to the ground to get tent pole and tape to stick clip next bolt. Finally clip next bolt pull up to it and suddenly it hits me, what the f**k am i doing, the whole pitch is a waterfall and its supposed to be raining for the next two days maybe i should do this another time, e.g. anytime but now. Bail off the route, drag all my shit down to the river setup my portaledge fly to sleep for the night, drink my two cans of beer, ditch all my water, possum eats my chocolate while i am sleeping. Get up in the morning divide my gear into two managable loads (haul bag one load, two ropes, rack and ledge second load) 5 hours later i am on the top of the gorge, great fun

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