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Chockstone Forum - Safer Cliffs Australia

Talk Bolts and Re-Bolting

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User Name:
IdratherbeclimbingM9
Full Name:
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Location: Mt Buffalo (near enough) Victoria, Australia. 
I Climb:
Gym Boulder Top Rope
Sport Trad Single Pitch Trad Multi Pitch
Aid/Big Wall Ice Real Mountains
Comments: Roped-soloing (aid) Country Road at Mt Buffalo. [A larger version can be found in photo of the week archive here.].
(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)




Roped-soloing (aid) M5 Sportclimb ~> the top pitch of Strange Ritual on the headwall of Ozymandias Direct/Lord Gumtree at Mt Buffalo.
... Equalised hooks on a dubious (can feel it but not see it), crimp to top-out !
Read about this climb here; (re photos below).



(Photos: courtesy of I. Kable.)

A link to yet another photo of the week from its archive ~ Lest We Forget (how to free climb? Hehheh9), can be found
here. This climb is at The Rock (between Holbrook and Wagga Wagga NSW).

Official Chockstone statistics say that I am in the lowest percentage climbers group; (My preferred option of aid = 13% only*) I can live with that,.. since some would call me antisocial anyway?
(*13% and falling as more Members register on this site!)

Although I ticked Boulder, Toprope & Sport; I really only (occasionally) play on them as physical training for Adventure (Trad) Climbing or Aid, (prefer multipitch in both cases).

"Climbing without risk is not really climbing" ~ Yvon Chouinard.
... and I would add that the day the mental component is taken out of climbing is the day that the adventure is greatly diminished.
~> I am exploring adventure (my mind?), through the medium of roped-solo-climbing (esp. hard aid), for extended duration periods...

~> M9* is something to aspire to.
(*Highest Australian Aid Grade at present, on an open ended system.)

~ Good judgment comes from experience;
Experience comes from bad judgment, and/or lessons learnt from others. ~ That is why climbing is a game; ...
... of survival.
Enjoy the moments while you can.

"A first ascent is a creation. It is more artistic if it consciously rejects the use of certain climbing aids that are not essential to the success of the climb." ~ R.R.

"The wonderful thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose from." - Grace Murray Hopper.



"It isnt what you have, or who you are, or where you are, or what you are doing that makes you happy or unhappy. It is what you think about". ~ D. Carnegie.





Record of my user name to make sense of historical posts; due Chockstone started 06/06/02; my 1st post was on 17/06/02 (lurked for 10 days); & events since have seen my user ID evolve ...
A5iswhereitsat
M8iswhereitsat
M9iswhereitsat
Idratherbeclimbing
IdratherbeclimbingM9 
Statistics: 6482 posts. Started 87 new topics, 6395 replies. 34 Media Reviews

Generally takes 9.21 days to reply.

Last posted on 10/09/2010 at 1:36:14 PM
Last logged in 10/09/2010 at 1:49:41 PM
Profile Topics: General Discussion
The greatest sandbags in Victoria   7/10/2009
Abseil Technique   22/05/2009
Off-topic Climbers who ride version 2; MOTORcycles   20/04/2009
What's the scariest lead that you've ever done?   18/04/2009
Australian climbing festival 09?   3/03/2009
The Inaugural Post   30/04/2008
If its A5 where are the bodies?   6/02/2008
Climbing an Adrenaline sport?   20/09/2007
A short story   28/08/2007
Off-topic Climbers who ride version 2; MOTORcycles   2/05/2007
The greatest unfinished problems in Victoria   10/02/2007
Solo Aiding a beginners intro   3/02/2007
Off-topic: Climbers who ride MOTORcycles.   1/02/2006   (289 Replies)
The singularly most dangerous thing ...   25/10/2005   (34 Replies)
Havachatwithhexy...   7/10/2005
Grigri impact force on protection ....   18/07/2005
What to do when nature calls....   14/06/2005
A short story   12/03/2005
Mind games, visualisation & being in the 'zone'.   17/11/2004   (48 Replies)
Topping out vs lowering off (climbs & ethics?)   19/08/2004   (59 Replies)
A short story   26/07/2004
A short story   25/06/2004
A short story   24/06/2004
lets talk about lost gear   1/03/2004
lets talk about lost gear   1/03/2004
THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM   5/02/2004
Ozymandias and water   19/11/2003

Trip Reports
ACT beta Trip Report, plus* (March 2010)...   30/03/2010   (18 Replies)
Buffalo Aid Weekend March 2010   23/03/2010
Buffalo Oysters ~ feasting on passion.   15/01/2008   (33 Replies)
Good & bad days happen. Morphed to what is sport?   15/06/2005   (16 Replies)
Adventure climbing - the completion of Scythe Slab   12/11/2004   (4 Replies)
Guidebook corrections - update section.   25/10/2004   (8 Replies)
Maharajah Tune   10/03/2004   (5 Replies)

Find Climbers
2nd Buffalo aidclimb w/e 20-21 Nov 2010   4/09/2010
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010   17/08/2010   (49 Replies)
Buffalo aidclimb w/end 20-21March2010(~> Newbies!)   4/02/2010   (91 Replies)
aid epidemic of one: calling A5iswhereitsat   25/10/2004

Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Self equalising anchor   29/03/2009

Safer Cliffs Australia
Buffalo Rebolting   17/01/2005

Crag & Route Beta
Iron Void - some beta please   8/07/2010
Buffalo - Angels substitute?   29/08/2007
Defender of the Faith   25/01/2005
Intentions Book - statistics   27/10/2004
Recent Topics: For Sale
Scarpa Helix shoes (size 42 & 45) $80 a pair.. fyi   5/09/2010   (0 Replies)

Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Found - potential 'booty' @ Mt Pilot   23/08/2010   (7 Replies)

Find Climbers
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010   17/08/2010   (49 Replies)

Chockstone Feedback
Having a CC function within the PM system?   12/08/2010   (8 Replies)

Accidents & Injuries
OT? - Australian woman hurt in a fall in Croatia.   3/08/2010   (6 Replies)
Post History:
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61 
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113 
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70 
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57 
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113 
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80 
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107 
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73 
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65 
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124 
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142 
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100 
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92 
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108 
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185 
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109 
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125 
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149 
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42 
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74 
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128 
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99 
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74 
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92 
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128 
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109 
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54 
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43 
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128 
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144 
January 2008
75 
December 2007
26 
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144 
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62 
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46 
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144 
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66 
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36 
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