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Chockstone Forum - Safer Cliffs Australia
Talk Bolts and Re-Bolting
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| User Name: |
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IdratherbeclimbingM9
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| Location: |
Mt Buffalo (near enough) Victoria, Australia. |
| I Climb: |
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| Comments: |
Roped-soloing (aid) Country Road at Mt Buffalo. [A larger version can be found in photo of the week archive here.].
(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)

Roped-soloing (aid) M5 Sportclimb ~> the top pitch of Strange Ritual on the headwall of Ozymandias Direct/Lord Gumtree at Mt Buffalo.
... Equalised hooks on a dubious (can feel it but not see it), crimp to top-out !
Read about this climb here; (re photos below).

(Photos: courtesy of I. Kable.)
A link to yet another photo of the week from its archive ~ Lest We Forget (how to free climb? Hehheh9), can be found here. This climb is at The Rock (between Holbrook and Wagga Wagga NSW).
Official Chockstone statistics say that I am in the lowest percentage climbers group; (My preferred option of aid = 13% only*) I can live with that,.. since some would call me antisocial anyway?
(*13% and falling as more Members register on this site!)
Although I ticked Boulder, Toprope & Sport; I really only (occasionally) play on them as physical training for Adventure (Trad) Climbing or Aid, (prefer multipitch in both cases).
"Climbing without risk is not really climbing" ~ Yvon Chouinard.
... and I would add that the day the mental component is taken out of climbing is the day that the adventure is greatly diminished.
~> I am exploring adventure (my mind?), through the medium of roped-solo-climbing (esp. hard aid), for extended duration periods...
~> M9* is something to aspire to.
(*Highest Australian Aid Grade at present, on an open ended system.)
~ Good judgment comes from experience;
Experience comes from bad judgment, and/or lessons learnt from others. ~ That is why climbing is a game; ...
... of survival.
Enjoy the moments while you can.
"A first ascent is a creation. It is more artistic if it consciously rejects the use of certain climbing aids that are not essential to the success of the climb." ~ R.R.
"The wonderful thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose from." - Grace Murray Hopper.
"It isnt what you have, or who you are, or where you are, or what you are doing that makes you happy or unhappy. It is what you think about". ~ D. Carnegie.
Record of my user name to make sense of historical posts; due Chockstone started 06/06/02; my 1st post was on 17/06/02 (lurked for 10 days); & events since have seen my user ID evolve ...
A5iswhereitsat
M8iswhereitsat
M9iswhereitsat
Idratherbeclimbing
IdratherbeclimbingM9 |
| Statistics: |
6482 posts.
Started 87 new topics, 6395 replies. 34 Media Reviews
Generally takes 9.21 days to reply.
Last posted on 10/09/2010 at 1:36:14 PM
Last logged in 10/09/2010 at 1:49:41 PM
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| Profile Topics: |
General Discussion
The greatest sandbags in Victoria
7/10/2009
Abseil Technique
22/05/2009
Off-topic Climbers who ride version 2; MOTORcycles
20/04/2009
What's the scariest lead that you've ever done?
18/04/2009
Australian climbing festival 09?
3/03/2009
The Inaugural Post
30/04/2008
If its A5 where are the bodies?
6/02/2008
Climbing an Adrenaline sport?
20/09/2007
A short story
28/08/2007
Off-topic Climbers who ride version 2; MOTORcycles
2/05/2007
The greatest unfinished problems in Victoria
10/02/2007
Solo Aiding a beginners intro
3/02/2007
Off-topic: Climbers who ride MOTORcycles.
1/02/2006
(289 Replies)
The singularly most dangerous thing ...
25/10/2005
(34 Replies)
Havachatwithhexy...
7/10/2005
Grigri impact force on protection ....
18/07/2005
What to do when nature calls....
14/06/2005
A short story
12/03/2005
Mind games, visualisation & being in the 'zone'.
17/11/2004
(48 Replies)
Topping out vs lowering off (climbs & ethics?)
19/08/2004
(59 Replies)
A short story
26/07/2004
A short story
25/06/2004
A short story
24/06/2004
lets talk about lost gear
1/03/2004
lets talk about lost gear
1/03/2004
THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM
5/02/2004
Ozymandias and water
19/11/2003
Trip Reports
ACT beta Trip Report, plus* (March 2010)...
30/03/2010
(18 Replies)
Buffalo Aid Weekend March 2010
23/03/2010
Buffalo Oysters ~ feasting on passion.
15/01/2008
(33 Replies)
Good & bad days happen. Morphed to what is sport?
15/06/2005
(16 Replies)
Adventure climbing - the completion of Scythe Slab
12/11/2004
(4 Replies)
Guidebook corrections - update section.
25/10/2004
(8 Replies)
Maharajah Tune
10/03/2004
(5 Replies)
Find Climbers
2nd Buffalo aidclimb w/e 20-21 Nov 2010
4/09/2010
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010
17/08/2010
(49 Replies)
Buffalo aidclimb w/end 20-21March2010(~> Newbies!)
4/02/2010
(91 Replies)
aid epidemic of one: calling A5iswhereitsat
25/10/2004
Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Self equalising anchor
29/03/2009
Safer Cliffs Australia
Buffalo Rebolting
17/01/2005
Crag & Route Beta
Iron Void - some beta please
8/07/2010
Buffalo - Angels substitute?
29/08/2007
Defender of the Faith
25/01/2005
Intentions Book - statistics
27/10/2004
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| Recent Topics: |
For Sale
Scarpa Helix shoes (size 42 & 45) $80 a pair.. fyi
5/09/2010
(0 Replies)
Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Found - potential 'booty' @ Mt Pilot
23/08/2010
(7 Replies)
Find Climbers
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010
17/08/2010
(49 Replies)
Chockstone Feedback
Having a CC function within the PM system?
12/08/2010
(8 Replies)
Accidents & Injuries
OT? - Australian woman hurt in a fall in Croatia.
3/08/2010
(6 Replies)
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