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Bolting at Mt Buffalo 26-Mar-2006 At 1:54:26 PM Access Ant

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Bolting to my knowledge has never been allowed by individuals. In some areas it has been approved by Parks (such as Werribee Gorge) but only with co-operation from an organisation such as the VCC or a commercial operator.

Some Rangers turn a blind eye but that doesn't mean it's allowed and in Buffalo's case it is most definiatly NOT allowed and I'm kind of horrified that some people think it is. I was contacted by the guys in question and they too thought it was an acceptable activity because without bolts the climb doesn't exist (except as a bold solo or maybe a beautiful blank bit of rock) but to rangers up there the argument is if it can't be done without bolts then it shouldn't be done at all.

Now before all you sport heads and mad bolters attack me about this issue let me say that I don't agree with the Rangers on this, but I do sometimes see their point of view (by the way I am paid to be a mediator and that involves listening to boths sides of the story).

With actions like this from some people it can be hard to argue our point effectly. I deliberatly stay out of the bolting debate because of the potental harm and repercussions it can have on the club and the rest of the climbing community.

I believe the biggest problem is that because of the constant talk about bolts and their universal acceptance by many, many of the next/new generation of climbers aren't aware of the problems (or benefit) of bolting and assume it as standard practice (which by the way it isn't, as some of us can jamb and a rare few can even place their own protection).

I don't always agree with climber's attitudes about this subject, ask Neil, he and I have exchanged quite a few e-mails about it but I do appreciate the fact that he has taken the time to listen to my arguements (doesn't mean he has to agree with them) and has enough sense not to ask ranger to charge his batteries for him.

In fact to people giving Neil grief about the "private" club of SCV I would like to point out that I believe that turned from a public forum to a private one at my request because of the perception that bolting was a standard practise that ALL climbers participate in.

There are more than just climbers "lurking" in these forums. Please to anyone wanting to bolt, do some research, ask some questions, think about it and try not to leave the rest of us to wade through the mess you've left behind!

Ant Callaghan
Access Officer VCC