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19-Oct-2005

HB Climbs New Grampians Super Crack
One of the last great cracklines of the Grampians has been freed by Malcolm Matheson at grade 27. The very steep right leaning crack has been a badly kept secret for several years after being discovered by Tim Marsh in early 2002. It is located in a gully just north of the popular Red Rocks area in the Victoria Range. Many climbers had looked at the route but none had dared to rope up and and put hand to crack.
The climb is very powerful and sustained climbing with exteremely slick feet. In some sections of the route the rock is so slick that cams would not grip and slipped out when wieghted. A single bolt protects a very wide section of underclings near the end. The route has been named Grand Oral Disseminator or GOD. Photo can be found at http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/photos/40337591-M.jpg