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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Climbing News [ Add ]
9/02/2005 Jacqui Middleton redpoints "Like a Koala in his Eucalyptus" (29).
After nine days, seventeen attempts and four belayers Jacqui Middleton finally succeeded on redpointing "Like a Koala in his Eucalyptus" (29) at The Gallery in the Grampians. Using her legandary strength and patience she nabbed this steep cave route which is located just right of the famous Monkey Puzzle (which Jacqui also redpointed last year). This is Jaq’s second route of grade 29 she has redpointed in the last 12 months. This has secured her place as Victoria’s strongest female climber. She describes the crux and the eventual success…

“OK this is it... Right foot up onto knobby thing with entire foot pointing downwards. Breath. Left foot up onto a neighbouring knobby thing. Entire foot pointing downwards. Come on... Knees outward, squeeze the feet towards each other, crossthru snatch to the sidecling flake.... Grab... Haven't fallen off yet. Good! New highpoint! I thought to myself "I'VE DONE IT!!!" Hang on no I haven't... A few more holds yet. Grab to the jug that ends the crux. Yeah!! Too flamed to clip. Quick shake. OK now clip. Shake again. Now don't stuff up. Got some recovery on the jug. Truly cannot see myself falling off now. OK big breath, let's go. Move # 1... Move # 2... Move # 3... Done! Clip before yippeeing for joy... Clipped. YAY!!! Hang on, might as well top out while I'm here... Topped out. Finished. Took the quickdraws down. Was happy for a couple of minutes before the inevitable emptiness kicked in. My crazy little obsessive affair with this climb is over. Have to find a new climb to seige now.”

 

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