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Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Author
Cracked Carabiners
mikl law
7-Jan-2009
12:31:44 PM
On 6/01/2009 JamesMc wrote:
>I spoke
>the BD Melbourne rep a month or so ago about cracked crabs. He promised
>me that it was only Chouinard that could possibly have anything wrong,
>and since the company became BD everything has been absolutely perfect.

It looks like a rolling defect in the sheet that was drawn into bar. if the crack has only opened up due to corrosion it would have passed the initial inspection. I'd guess the strength would drop by 60%. After you've looked at it i may beble to test it.

JamesMc
7-Jan-2009
4:38:23 PM
On 7/01/2009 mikl law wrote:

>It looks like a rolling defect in the sheet that was drawn into bar. if
>the crack has only opened up due to corrosion it would have passed the
>initial inspection. I'd guess the strength would drop by 60%. After you've
>looked at it i may beble to test it.

Mike,
I really don't see much point in testing these crabs. They have cracks so they're no good. More informative to hear the manufacturer's response. Like if they say they're too old, then I'll want to know the expected lifetime.

You're welcome to have my old cracked Chouinards to play with. (There's no point sending them to BD as they'll just say they were made by someone else.) PM me your address and I'll post them. Actually we could take bets on your 60% estimate.

JamesMc
PDRM
7-Jan-2009
5:39:33 PM
Mikl,

Is there generally a difference in failure testing these sorts of defects between % strength loss in static vs dynamic loading? Apologies if that syntax is somewhat mangled...

.M
jrc
7-Jan-2009
8:40:57 PM
probably better than wot u was tied 2 on F Duddy...
mikl law
8-Jan-2009
7:52:49 AM
On 7/01/2009 .Macca wrote:
>Mikl,
>
>Is there generally a difference in failure testing these sorts of defects
>between % strength loss in static vs dynamic loading? Apologies if that
>syntax is somewhat mangled...
>
>.M

Very little difference, very high strain rates (like a 1000 times the speed of a hammer blow on a nail) starts to change the metal's response a bit. We see a hammer blow as being dynamic, but what we are really seeing is concentrating a lot of force on one nail head. Once you have any length of rope in use, the differenece between static and dynamic loading becomes minimal.

climbau
8-Jan-2009
8:26:29 AM
I think you will find that the answer to your expected lifetime question will be along the lines of "how long
is a piece of string". Product lifetimes will vary between users. someone who uses a product every
weekend may get 12 months whilst some one using the same product one weekend a month may get 5
years???? I don't think many, if any manufacturers have life expectancy details based on
hourly/daily/monthly usage rates.
Mikl may be able to shed some light on the effects of variability in the usage of products and how they
affect life expectancy in relation to metal products????

mikl law
8-Jan-2009
8:37:43 AM
On 8/01/2009 climbau wrote:
>Product lifetimes will vary between users. someone
>who uses a product every
>weekend may get 12 months whilst some one using the same product one weekend
>a month may get 5
>years.
And look at ropes, they last between 10 years and 10 days, depending.
mikl law
10-Mar-2009
7:38:50 AM
On 27/12/2008 JamesMc wrote:
>Just checked all my carabiners and found that a couple had cracks in the
>ends of the gates.
>
>
>
>They are Chouinard Light Ds, obviously not exactly new, but the cracks
>had been there for some time.
>
>Something to watch for when inspecting your gear.
These were old (early 80’s) Chouninard D biners. They both looked about the same and I tested them.
The first test terminated when the 9mm rope I connected it with to the (very sharp) anchor tore at 1920 kg, the biner behaved and closed normally after the load was removed,
The second blew at just 740 kg, the pin pulled through the gate
Moral, check your gear,
I will be tossing the ok-looking biner.



>
>JamesMc
pecheur
11-Apr-2012
7:36:50 AM
On 28/12/2008 JamesMc wrote:
>It doesn't really say anything about the reliability of gear in less than
>ideal condition. The fact that one of my crabs had obviously had a crack
>for a long time means that I've not been very diligent at inspecting my
>gear.
The fact that the crabs never actually opened in a fall just means
>that I never took any big falls on them. Anyway, I've ordered replacements
>for all my Light Ds.
>
>JamesMc

Not sure how I ended up at this thread but, why do I find the bit in bold hard to believe from someone who engraves his name on his larger nuts and etches it on his krabs?

Actually what do you do for your smaller pieces?

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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