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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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Climbing Gear Ideas that Flopped


LittleMac

18-Mar-2005
2:11:05 PM

On 18/03/2005 dalai wrote:
>On 18/03/2005 LittleMac wrote:
>The bits of wood are still there waiting for the next unsuspecting
>>victim. Did you like myself not notice them until you were upon them.
>
>On 18/03/2005 dalai wrote:
>Yes, only noticed them when at eye level! It was like 'What the!!'. It's
>a fun bit of dangle to while away a wet afternoon with improvised slings
>as etriers...

Sure is, I had a very similar response except I nearly grabbed the wood until I realised what it was. Good piece of history really.


socialclimber

23-Mar-2005
11:08:52 PM

Heres something I think is doomed to flop, the Revolver carabiner from DMM.

"Designed for use at rope clipping end of a quickdraw, this extremely light and strong biner works mechanically in your favour. What more can you ask"

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/library/media/45.jpg

I just can't see people owning a dozen of these.

gfdonc

23-Mar-2005
11:20:15 PM

For a cross-thread leap - how about hypoxicators?

rightarmbad

24-Mar-2005
12:48:10 AM

On 23/03/2005 socialclimber wrote:
Heres something I think is doomed to flop, the Revolver carabiner from DMM.

Thats what I thought until I felt the loss of rope drag. No more slings. Cost too much though


maxots

24-Mar-2005
8:22:23 AM

On 23/03/2005 socialclimber wrote:
>Heres something I think is doomed to flop, the Revolver carabiner from
>DMM.

No way! not if people understand how useful they can be !

>"Designed for use at rope clipping end of a quickdraw, this extremely
>light and strong biner works mechanically in your favour. What more can
>you ask"

Well its NOT light by modern standards, but its light enough considering the weight it can save you on rope drag.

> http://www.dmmclimbing.com/library/media/45.jpg

Check out Andy Kirkpatric's (crazy brit sufferfest loving gear freak) articles on planet fear

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=330

Quote:
"SAY GOODBYE TO ROPE DRAG
The first thing you notice when using these karabiners is how much drag you must have been suffering from for all these years without even realizing it. Even on straightforward pitches the difference can be felt, often worryingly so, as you get the impression that you've actually neglected to actually clip the rope into any gear. Of course, the first time you really notice it is on those routes with friction black spots, such at the backs of roofs, at the start of traverses and general zigzaggyness and although experience is the best way to avoid getting bogged down by drag, the difference can still be felt"

>I just can't see people owning a dozen of these.

The way i see it, you're not meant to. you want 2 - 4 to complement youre regular draws. Though even if you had ALL revolvers, they wiegh 10g more per biner (or 20g compared to the lighteset wiregates) and the friction you cut out, would probably offset that weight anyhow!


nmonteith

24-Mar-2005
10:36:13 AM

I have one Revolver biner. It works great in situations where the first bolt is at a sharp angle with the belayer (cave route with slab start). It really removes most of the rope drag. It is not good however if your belayer weighs 20kg less and you take big whips on the biner! You end up going a lot further as the biner acts as a pully and your belayer gets shot into space! Save the Revolvers for unexpected falls only - not dogging sport routes - unless your belayer is 20kg heavier than you!

James

24-Mar-2005
8:25:05 PM

these Revolvers would have to be perfect for hauling bags when aid climbing. when/if I do proper bigs walls I'd get 1 for that.


socialclimber

24-Mar-2005
11:11:42 PM

I'm not saying revolvers are a lousy idea, but between the weight, the cost and the fact that DMM are the first on the block with this idea (for mainstream use as opposed to rescue) I don't see people thinking of them as a must have piece of kit. Some ideas are a definate improvment on whats in use at the time, ie:tube type belay devices compared to fig 8's, that they become the defult item on your rack. Thats not going to happen with the Revolver.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

3-Aug-2007
11:31:52 AM

bump ...
An old thread revived due to alluded to in a recent one, and there are prolly some more items that can be added to the list.

Imo 'speed-tabs' on harnesses would be a good candidate, as although the idea has merit it did not become popular due being too specialised.
Apart from climbers not feeling sufficient need for the feature to justify usage, I think the prime drawback was potentially losing gear attached to a 'less than secure' attachment point on the harness during general usage.


IdratherBjamBing

3-Aug-2007
4:21:41 PM

Idratherbeclimbing wrote :

>'speed-tabs'

Sounds like what me an Travis were poppin at 3rd Class / Honky Tonks , last w/e !!!


wallwombat

4-Aug-2007
11:25:10 AM

I was always amazed how similar in basic design the Whillans harness (which was very uncomfortable) is to harnesses like the Black Diamond Bod harness (which is very comfortable).

Basically shorten the 'nappy' bit on a Whillans, add a belay loop or even a locking biner and couple of short pieces of webbing to make leg loops on the 'nappy' bit and you virtually have a Bod harness.

Surely someone back then could have worked that one out?

5-Aug-2007
11:47:51 AM

The Whillans harness was never designed to be a rock climbing harness. It was made for the big hills when you were slogging up slopes with a jumar in one hand (onto the fixed line) and an axe in the other. At the time it was the only harness readily available, it even rated inclusion in the Chouinard catalogues of the time. As its short comings for rock climbing became evident other designers got to work and we ended up with the comfy units we have these days.

dilbster

8-Sep-2007
3:40:10 AM

oweng,

I have seen those removeable bolts on sale in the US.


oweng

8-Sep-2007
1:30:45 PM

On 8/09/2007 dilbster wrote:
>oweng,
>
>I have seen those removeable bolts on sale in the US.

Thanks for that, Interseting that they are still used. This thread is a bit of a blast from the past!


Macciza

8-Sep-2007
6:50:55 PM

On 8/09/2007 dilbster wrote:

>I have seen those removeable bolts on sale in the US.

Yeah, but where can you get a 'removeable hole' to put them in?

certifi

24-Sep-2007
10:43:46 AM

i think im to young to understand what all you 'farts' are talking about. i thought wooden blocks went out
with dinosaurs??? i also thought that the 'cliffhanger bolt gun' was a hollywood make up. prove me wrong.


westie

24-Sep-2007
1:46:14 PM

tins of baked beans - superceded by cams and big bros...


sliamese

24-Sep-2007
8:30:44 PM

On 8/09/2007 dilbster wrote:
>oweng,
>
>I have seen those removeable bolts on sale in the US.

are you sure they weren't just advertising standard dynabolts? or the Fixe triplex bolts? both of which are removable!


oweng

25-Sep-2007
8:27:53 AM

On 24/09/2007 sliamese wrote:
>On 8/09/2007 dilbster wrote:
>>oweng,
>>
>>I have seen those removeable bolts on sale in the US.
>
>are you sure they weren't just advertising standard dynabolts? or the
>Fixe triplex bolts? both of which are removable!

Hi Simon,

I cant speak for sure about what dilbster saw, but these are the ones I was reffering to:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/Detailed/449.html

Would make equiping routes a hell of alot cheaper!

widewetandslippery

25-Sep-2007
10:43:12 AM

never used them but from what I have been told removable bolts rely on 2 things: The hole to be of perfect and consistant size, ok powerdrilling in granite but other rock? and they wear out as all they are is a fancy and expensive dynabolt with a lanyard on. Heresay, but makes sense..

There are 94 messages in this topic.