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DMM: Viper Size L (2013 model)- Dark Blue piping... Padded Adjustable Harness, 5 Gear Loops Fits: Waist 87-104cm Legs: 55-70cm   $89.00
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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 94
Author
Climbing Gear Ideas that Flopped

jkane
2/02/2010
11:40:28 PM
Another karabiner innovation from DMM - the shadow secure
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=1&pid2=214

Supposed to stop gate flutter. Does anyone think this will catch on. I'm not going to rush out and buy any but I wouldn't mind having a play with one of these to see how easy it is to use. I could do with one more rope end krab but I think I would get a revolver wire gate.

Also interested to know from any Aid climbers whether the revolver screw gate can do the same job as a pully. DMM say that it should not be used for frequent lowering and that you should use a pully that can handle the wear. So I guess it would wear out faster than a pully if you did a lot of hauling on it.

wallwombat
3/02/2010
12:11:24 AM
On 2/02/2010 jkane wrote:

>Also interested to know from any Aid climbers whether the revolver screw
>gate can do the same job as a pully. DMM say that it should not be used
>for frequent lowering and that you should use a pully that can handle the
>wear. So I guess it would wear out faster than a pully if you did a lot
>of hauling on it.

I think you (and DMM) have answered your own question there.

I'm sure it would work a treat for light hauling but I reckon one of these is much cheaper (sub $5 without the biner) and would handle a light load better.



Petzl make them, they weigh nothing and are a handy bit of kit in any situation where you might have to set up an improvised haul. I used to have one and keep it on a oval biner with a Tibloc and a prussick. The combo worked for any rope ascending or hauling needs that might pop up. I took it canyoning more than climbing but I did take it on a few multipitch routes. Alas, I lost it (the little orange pully thing) somewhere but plan on getting another.



Mike Bee
3/02/2010
12:55:22 AM
On 3/02/2010 wallwombat wrote:

>I'm sure it would work a treat for light hauling but I reckon one of these
>is much cheaper (sub $5 without the biner) and would handle a light load
>better.

Another couple of great uses for the revolver are
- redirecting belays (ie belay off your harness with the rope clipped through a revolver on the anchor. It makes things much smoother and easier.
- Keeping on your harness incase you need to haul someone/something (eg a weaker second or the like, or dragging a mate out of a crevasse.

I now keep my cordalette racked on one as it gives you more options for unexpected circumstances.
I'm planning to shortly grab 1 or 2 non-locking ones to put onto some quickdraws for those particularly draggy clips that you sometimes get (eg at the start or end of a traverse in an otherwise upwards pitch).
dmnz
3/02/2010
8:35:30 AM
On 6/09/2004 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>How long does a product have to be on the market to be considered successful?
>>
>Depends on the age of the commentator !
>If your youngish something might seem to fade in quicker time. For example
>'coco-nuts' ie the ones that have ribs across their backs so that they
>can be interlocked with others to form wider placements ...
>


Simond still makes something like that so I wouldnt say they've faded. That particular format maybe but the style lives on and now known as the Camerock...http://www.simond.com/fiche-A|SIMOND|57407-020104020000.html
dmnz
3/02/2010
8:38:00 AM
On 29/11/2004 Goodvibes wrote:
>Hey, I've got some wired Hexes, they work fine.

you can also stiffen your hexes just by wrapping tape around the sling...also a good idea for your small tri cams which are notoriously hard to manage due to floppiness
Wendy
3/02/2010
8:41:22 AM
On 3/02/2010 Mike Bee wrote:

>

>- Keeping on your harness incase you need to haul someone/something (eg
>a weaker second or the like, or dragging a mate out of a crevasse.
>
Wouldn't that be using it as a pulley?
dmnz
3/02/2010
8:47:56 AM
On 8/09/2004 Pei wrote:
>I was wondering how successful those plastic nuts and hexes have been?
>Does anyone own them? or know of anyone who uses them regularly? Could
>you call them a flop?

Only placed the plastic hexes and they seem ok in rock. Not as confidence inspiring as the reuglar ones. They are lighter and they "are handy for sea cliff climbing because they float.
" (http://www.spgear.org/reviews/930/Poly-Hex.html).

Been too scared to try bashing them into iced up stuff which is what I really wanted them for. Don't know how easy they would be to get out compared to the regular ones in those situations but tehy are also fairly cheap if you have to leave one.
gfdonc
3/02/2010
9:54:32 AM
On 3/02/2010 Mike Bee wrote:
>Another couple of great uses for the revolver are
>- redirecting belays (ie belay off your harness with the rope clipped
>through a revolver on the anchor. It makes things much smoother and easier.

I second that. I've got one of the locking ones, and if you have a bomber anchor it's a great way to belay - plus gives you a hauling advantage if you need to drag someone through the crux. Someone fairly heavy who couldn't quite manage to second that 22 at Camel's. Not mentioning any names of course.

peterc
3/02/2010
11:27:46 PM
While it was never released to market (I have no idea why), this one rates a mention: Dave Jones rigged up a nail, and some tape, jammed it into a hole and clipped it once. I think it was on the Hard Grit video.

For anyone who hasn't seen the video, he then falls off the climb and the nail (surprise, surprise) flies out.

hipster
4/02/2010
8:24:06 AM
Ahhh, but if he always knew it was going to fail, then it's not a flop. If it worked for his mind, and maybe slowed him down a little, as intended, then it worked!
deadpoint
4/02/2010
8:42:33 AM
On 3/02/2010 peterc wrote:
>While it was never released to market (I have no idea why), this one rates
>a mention: Dave Jones rigged up a nail, and some tape, jammed it into a
>hole and clipped it once. I think it was on the Hard Grit video.
>
>For anyone who hasn't seen the video, he then falls off the climb and
>the nail (surprise, surprise) flies out.
>
>
I consider the nail sacrificial gear, at least it slowed him down enough before swinging
around the arete before slamming into the other side at a much slower speed.....
I consider the nail sacrificial gear, at least it slowed him down enough before swinging
around the arete before slamming into the other side
deadpoint
4/02/2010
8:48:15 AM
That lock thingy looks like it could slice a rope, it's amazing what will slice them, I have
seen normal biners of slightly different design (Australin) consistently catch and strip the
sheaths of ropes. Be wary of any edge, it does not even have the be sharp, high speed and
friction do the job.



peterc
4/02/2010
10:32:29 AM
Ado - fair point! And come to think of it - I've clipped worse things!
darryn
4/02/2010
12:04:08 PM
Human whipper snipper!

>There's a site that specialises in this.
>http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml
>Check out "The famous M.A.D. (Motorized Ascending Device), powered by
>a gasoline engine" under Ascendeurs

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 94
There are 94 messages in this topic.

 

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