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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 94
Author
Climbing Gear Ideas that Flopped

shaggy
30/11/2004
9:59:06 PM
2x4 timber off cuts, I don't rekon there are too many of us here is Aus that would still have the balls to lead with a few of them slung up.
WM
1/12/2004
9:38:44 AM
then again, 2 by 4 offcuts have flourished as holds on woodies!

On 30/11/2004 AlanD wrote:
> Nuts were real nuts you could by done at the hardware store

there's a monster one of these still embedded in the start of Introduction (18) at Piddington. Probably still bomber so not yet out of style on that route :)) What's more it's about a #3.5Fr crack - the nut must weigh ~1kg!! Imagine carrying a 'rack' of them (its a 60m+ route....)

Breezy
1/12/2004
9:50:29 AM
On 30/11/2004 shaggy wrote:
>2x4 timber off cuts, I don't rekon there are too many of us here is Aus
>that would still have the balls to lead with a few of them slung up.
>

I have a friend who found a wooden hex at the bottom of dog face proudly hanging on his wall. It looks cool, We have had thoughts of using it ................... but thought better of it :)

rhinckle
1/12/2004
10:05:40 AM
the cliffhanger bolt gun!
haven't seen one of those in a while...
BA
1/12/2004
12:42:28 PM
Wooden wedges were about the only thing available for protecting wide cracks in the 'good old days'. When I was on an early repeat of Feline (15, Mt Difficult) Rein Kamar fell onto one and it naturally pulled, but the nut lower down held.

Not to be put off by this I had some made up and used them on the first attempt on Compulsion (13-17, Mt Buffalo). I banged one into the crack and couldn't get any higher so I lowered off on it and cleaned the rest of the gear. When I went back to it the following summer, armed with some high-tech bongs, I found the wedge at the bottom of the crack! Just goes to show that you need to season the timber properly before using it.

Breezy
1/12/2004
12:53:10 PM
On 1/12/2004 BA wrote:
When I went back to it the following summer, armed with some
>high-tech bongs,

should you really be climbing after "high tech bongs" :P

Rich
1/12/2004
9:25:30 PM
On 1/12/2004 Breezy wrote:
>On 1/12/2004 BA wrote:
> When I went back to it the following summer, armed with some
>>high-tech bongs,
>
>should you really be climbing after "high tech bongs" :P

prob better than those low-tech orange juice bottle jobs..

Breezy
2/12/2004
8:06:37 AM
LOL
Wendy
2/12/2004
9:16:28 PM


Styling bits of 2x4 still hanging out on the Aiguille du Midi, well petrified by many seasons in the ice ...

rhinckle
7/12/2004
4:33:29 PM
On 29/11/2004 muncher wrote:
>Hey, I've got some wired Hexes, they work fine.

so i took mine out last week and in a shallow parallel crack found it was the only thing that would work.
i hereby eat my words re wired hexes.

Mike TS
8/12/2004
2:35:08 PM
There's a site that specialises in this.
http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml
Check out "The famous M.A.D. (Motorized Ascending Device), powered by a gasoline engine" under Ascendeurs
NEVERCLIMBED32
15/02/2005
1:56:50 PM
On 1/12/2004 rhinckle wrote:
>the cliffhanger bolt gun!
>haven't seen one of those in a while...

Its actually called a 'Cliffhanger Bolt Gun'. Mine still works well after all these years.
I don't know that I would lead with it however................., as you know they are only supposed to be used for unroped solo outings.
simey
15/02/2005
2:09:05 PM
On 1/12/2004 BA wrote:
>...and used them on the first attempt on Compulsion (13-17, Mt Buffalo).

Hey BA, what sort of grade is that?!!
BA
15/02/2005
4:37:15 PM
Hi Simey, here's an extract from ab email I sent Kevin Lindorff when he forwarded another email to me. "I have heard some people say it should be 17! But they were either trying to do it as a straight layback or jam. When we did it I actually had some bong bongs for protection, before that I had tried it using wooden wedges for pro! When I got up the thing it was using 2 rests from the bongs in the crack, I was knackered after hammering them in. Julie Tulloch came up second and clipped in the rope for Rein Kamar. When we got to the top and started to work out the grade I said 13, Julie said 13 and Rein said 10. 13+13+10 = 36. 36/3 =12, which is what we originally graded it. Bangla upped it to 13 in his guide. If people are jamming and laybacking the corner then it is probably harder than 13, we climbed it with both feet and the right hand in the corner and the left hand laying away off a groove that runs up the left wall."

Maybe someone should add it to the guide book checking expeditions tick list.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/02/2005
6:50:35 PM
BA
You've climbed with Julie Tulloch ?
Awsome, ... if this is who I think it is. A pommie lady who wrote a book on her mountaineering experiences called 'Clouds' or something like that?
Tell us more.
BA
17/02/2005
11:56:00 AM
I think you have gotten confused with Julie Tullis whose book is called "Clouds from both sides". Julie Tulloch did a fair bit of climbing with Ann Pauligk and Sylvia Lazarnik, partners of Roland Pauligk and Tim Beaman respectively.

LittleMac
18/03/2005
1:22:18 PM
On 30/11/2004 shaggy wrote:
>2x4 timber off cuts, I don't rekon there are too many of us here is Aus
>that would still have the balls to lead with a few of them slung up.
>

There are still some timber pieces in The Ogive (Bundaleer), I clipped them when I went past. don't know if I would have wanted to fall on them particularrly.
dalai
Online Now
18/03/2005
1:45:31 PM
Are they still there! I aided out to the lip and back one rainy day long past and was highly impressed...

What grade do you think the Ogive is? - A1 ;-)

LittleMac
18/03/2005
1:55:50 PM
On 18/03/2005 dalai wrote:
>Are they still there! I aided out to the lip and back one rainy day long
>past and was highly impressed...
>
>What grade do you think the Ogive is? - A1 ;-)

I managed to do some of it free, but the bit's I aided would be about A1. The bits of wood are still there waiting for the next unsuspecting victim. Did you like myself not notice them until you were upon them. I almost didn't notice them among the cobwebs and stuff.

It really is quite an impressive route, for an upside down ditch that is. I topped out when I did it always enjoy topping out at that end of the cliff the views are just special.
dalai
Online Now
18/03/2005
2:06:08 PM
On 18/03/2005 LittleMac wrote:
The bits of wood are still there waiting for the next unsuspecting
>victim. Did you like myself not notice them until you were upon them.

Yes, only noticed them when at eye level! It was like 'What the!!'. It's a fun bit of dangle to while away a wet afternoon with improvised slings as etriers...

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 94
There are 94 messages in this topic.

 

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