Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
Stitch Plate 4
6% 
ATC (Tube Style) 13
20% 
ATC (With V slots like the BD-XP or WC VC-PRO 21
32% 
Petzl Reverso 13
20% 
Faders Sum 2
3% 
Edelrid Eddy 3
5% 
Trango Cinch 0
 
Petzl Gri Gri 10
15% 

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Author
Belay Devices
wyt91t
1-Oct-2007
3:07:44 AM
Well to put it simple this is a poll to see what type of device people prefer to use not only outdoors but in gyms aswell. Also put into account what you prefer to be belayed on.

skink
1-Oct-2007
8:15:52 AM
Too simplistic. My preferences:

Outdoor with skinny 8.6mm double ropes - ATC-XP
Outdoor with 9.6mm single rope - ATC-XP or Grigri if leader is working a route
Indoor - not bothered, use my ATC-XP generally, or grigri provided at the wall

but based on the above - vote is ATC-XP
mr milk
1-Oct-2007
9:51:08 AM
After i've sold a local grommit a 9mm half rope and skimmed a few percent off the shop for myself, I like to watch them grow fatter and fatter until burnt hands result. It doesn't matter if they deck, because the floor in gyms is padded, right?

nmonteith
1-Oct-2007
10:01:35 AM
Black Diamond ATC Guide (Autoblock) for trad, multipitch and double rope raps.

Edelrid Eddy for single pitch sport and trad.
gfdonc
1-Oct-2007
10:47:27 AM
Migrated from my Sticht plate (double 9mm but would take ropes to 10.5) to a BD XP Guide a few months back.

I've very happy with the XPG although I reckon overall performance (braking, feeding) is similar to the Sticht. Yes it may be an old design but it still works!
The XPG has a major advantage, though - no spring to get caught on things.

If I had my time again I'd settle for the XP Pro as I don't think I'll ever use the autoblock feature and the Pro would be lighter and smaller.

muki
1-Oct-2007
10:48:37 AM
Black Diamond Guide for Rapping double/single skinny ropes, and guiding, belaying thin trad.
Gri Gri for Solo aid, and belays that have haul potential, partners who want to work the route ie:dogging,
and bolting/repair work.
BD guide :30%
Gri Gri :70%

nmonteith
1-Oct-2007
10:59:42 AM
I'm the same as bomber - regards ratio and use.

Macciza
1-Oct-2007
11:03:16 AM
You left out a few of my faves
Figure Eight - 3 different belay speeds
Munter Hitch - Bottom or top belay just need a suitable biner
Body Belay - Yeah some of us still use it sometimes . . .

PS The 'Reverso' idea was ripped off from Kong - who make better stuff than Petzl anyway . . .

dougal
1-Oct-2007
2:20:18 PM
ATC guide 80% (100% trad)

Gri gri - 20% (top rope, dogging (always my partner, never me))
wyt91t
2-Oct-2007
12:53:41 AM
well the poll didnt let me add more i wanted to though i also forgot to mention if anyone here as ever used a SUM to decend on ropes because i used my mates the other week and shit from only going down on the rope about ten meters it was cause real damage to it.

skink
2-Oct-2007
9:56:27 AM
On 2/10/2007 wyt91t wrote:
>well the poll didnt let me add more i wanted to though i also forgot to
>mention if anyone here as ever used a SUM to decend on ropes because i
>used my mates the other week and shit from only going down on the rope
>about ten meters it was cause real damage to it.

What were you doing wrong?
wyt91t
2-Oct-2007
10:25:52 PM
we were using the sum to acsend and desend on the rope as we took photos of our friends on the climb next to us.

i will make a video of it to show you that we were doing nothing wrong and that Sums kill ropes.

HM33
2-Oct-2007
10:45:17 PM
On 2/10/2007 wyt91t wrote:
> we were doing nothing wrong
>and that Sums kill ropes.

Arithmatic is dangerous man. be careful next time your doing some maths while on the pointy end!
Tris
3-Oct-2007
7:19:52 AM
The Sum is crap for abseiling, I would not reccommend it. But for lead belaying it is the best device out there (in my opinion).

I use the Sum for sport lead belaying and my ATC Guide for everything else.

cruze
3-Oct-2007
8:38:30 AM
Reading these posts I can't help but thinking that a lot of you guys must have half a dozen different belay devices sitting at home most weekends gathering dust. I know that a lot of you guys have been climbing for a while and yet you use the relatively recently released auto-locking double (ATC guide) and single rope devices(sum, cinch, etc.).

Maybe we should start a thread: How many belay devices do you own?

Me personally I migrated from the ATC to the ATC XP to the reverso. Plus have the trusty grigri if dogging on sports routes is going to be involved.

EJ
3-Oct-2007
8:44:11 AM
I'm a big fan of devices like the ATC guide and Reverso. Bought the reverso a couple of years back and was impressed with it, when BD brought out the ATC guide I bought one to see what it was like. I now use it all the time. The V-slots are great with narrow diameter ropes.

Gri-gri's are great for sport-climbing etc. So to break it down:

ATC guide / Reverso : 80%
Gri-gri: 20%

This reflects more on the style of climbing more than anything else. As to what I prefer to be belayed on it doesn't bother me, its more about who is belaying me.
Tris
3-Oct-2007
8:46:10 AM
Lets see:

Fig-8 - Who uses these anymore anyway
Sprung Stitch plate - Stopped using it because it was annoying and grabbed the rope
Variable Controller - So much nicer than the stitch plate, but has no auto block and can't handle thin ropes
ATC-XP - Can handle my half ropes and has auto-block
Faders SUM - Great for belaying single pitch sport climbs

So thats 6.

I think thats all I have, will check again when I get home.

All of these devices are still usable (and I still lend them out to beginners when I have to), it's just I have found other devices better so I buy them.

JBM
3-Oct-2007
9:31:58 AM
Anyone out there use the Simond Toucan?

dougal
3-Oct-2007
11:47:40 AM
Too ugly.

meinmuk
3-Oct-2007
12:58:07 PM
My old VC was fine, but I note that in comparison with my new device that it didn't feed out rope very quickly.

My new(ish) B-52 works well for rapping and for single and double rope autoblocks. For lead belaying, feeding out rope is a charm. I haven't yet had to catch a lead fall on it, but note that when lowering my mate who is ~90kg, that the rope can go through the device pretty fast. I wonder if catching a heavy climber taking a whipper is going to be a problem. Any experience out there?

andy

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints