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What cams to buy ?????

gfdonc

6-Mar-2007
2:05:21 PM

Yep, sorry, meant blue.

rod

8-Mar-2007
3:59:40 AM

On 5/03/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>BD c3 nuf said

One minor safety item to point out, unlike the C4's the C3's don't cater for passive protection.

For Rayda: amongst the BD I've all sizes between 000 C3 through to 3 C4. I rarely use the 000 and 00 size C3's unless needed for aiding out of trouble on pin scars or as part of a nest. In use I find the size 2 C3 pretty much equates to the size 0.3 C4, I find the 0.3 C4 gets more use. Out of the rest, I could probably double up on the C4s from 0.75 through 2 but still happen to rely on hex's as the supplement.

Anyone using Omega Pacific link cams who can give some in the field comment on their performance? What would you use them to substitute for?


nmonteith

8-Mar-2007
9:43:24 AM

On 8/03/2007 rod wrote:
>Anyone using Omega Pacific link cams who can give some in the field comment
>on their performance? What would you use them to substitute for?

These cams are simply awesome. If i coudl have a full rack of them i would. They very rarely get stuck
(overcammed) and they feel solid, work well and have the ability to fit into strange shaped placments
(they work like an offset cam when required). I can't rave enough about these cams. In my opinion they
are quite revolutionary.


manacubus

8-Mar-2007
4:07:56 PM

FYI: Omega Pacific Link Cam reviews on rc.com. Mostly positive, a few durability issues.


nmonteith

8-Mar-2007
5:57:16 PM

Because the are so complex i can see durability to be an issue. I've trashed mine aiding, bolting (and
occasionaly actually climbing) and they have held up fine over the last 12 months.


rayda

9-Mar-2007
10:43:45 AM

Thanks for the tips Rod. I will definately look into C3's with your comments in mind. As for the Omega
Pacific, what I have read so far has been positive as the others have said. No experience with them as
yet mostly due to pricing. Maybe as they become more common the price may drop.


dougal

9-Mar-2007
3:11:06 PM

Overcamming - not nearly as common with BD (or WC). U stems seems to be more prone (in my experience). I assume it's not the u stem design itself but the camming range.


Rayda

9-Mar-2007
11:45:10 PM

Hey Rod - do you get much use out of your size 0 and 1 C3 BD cams.

Cheers


hangdoggy

11-Mar-2007
10:28:31 PM

anyone used rock empire cams and what do you thik of them?

Duncan

12-Mar-2007
11:07:58 AM

On 11/03/2007 hangdoggy wrote:
>anyone used rock empire cams and what do you thik of them?

I picked up a set of 8 of these super cheap, and with the no's 1, 2 and 3 that I already had they make up my full rack of cams. I like them. I like c4's a lot more, but I got 8 cams for the price of 3 c4's, and while I'll upgrade when I get a real job and some money, the rock empire's are more than fine for now.

rod

13-Mar-2007
5:41:04 AM

On 9/03/2007 Rayda wrote:
>Hey Rod - do you get much use out of your size 0 and 1 C3 BD cams.
>
>Cheers

Early days but I'd say its enough to justify in my situation. I've used small cams frequently this past year when I'm in a dodgy first or second clip situation to be reasonably sure I don't bite the deck or the belay station. Its a function of what I climb locally, limestone pockets. There's also run outs and its probably only mental assurance but for me when they're placed in limestone 5-7m above a bolt, iffy is better than nothing.

I'm ignoring aid climbing to get myself out of trouble in the above and I suggest you really think through the clichéd response you'll have encountered elsewhere of budget, personal climbing area, etc...


dougal

13-Mar-2007
12:38:30 PM

I've often used PPP*. Gotten me over many a crux.

Purely Psychological Protection


Rayda

13-Mar-2007
6:34:08 PM

Thanks for that Rod.

And now for something completely different.

I just want to start another discussion on dyneema/spectra (D/S) versus nylon. There seems to be, what I have read, alot of contradiction as to when it is appropriate to use D/S and nylon in anchor systems. What I understand, (an you can call me nieve) but alot is said by climbers in other forums and research on the internet that D/S should be avoided in the use of a belay/toprope anchor systems because 1. compromised knot strength 2.low melting point which if folded/knotted can cause failure 3. shear lack of give ie. very stiff/no dynamic loading

My point is, focusing on point 3. If these climbers say they shouldn't be used them in anchor systems with 3 + pieces of pro, then why would they then use a runner made from it, in use with 1 piece of pro when on lead.

Does anyone else see this glaring contradiction, or am I in a boat of my own?

Also could anyone clarify points 1 and 2.


skink

13-Mar-2007
7:44:34 PM

Hey dude, start a new thread - I came here expecting to see some cam talk (which I love) and instead am confronted with more of this drivel about dyneema not being suitable for anchor systems... now I am grumpy...


rayda

13-Mar-2007
9:27:44 PM

yeah point taken, my bad.

keep on with the cam talk grumpy !

tommy

13-Mar-2007
10:37:22 PM

i havent seen anyone mention kong cams?? has anyone had experience with these? im thinking of getting a rack together soon and have noticed that these are cheaper than most of the other cams out there...

Rob668

14-Mar-2007
5:41:34 AM

Hi Tommy,

you generally get what you pay for. If their marketing department could charge more for them (given better features, useability, reliability, ...) they would.

Good luck with you purchase.

Rob

tommy

14-Mar-2007
9:28:59 PM

thanks rob. so is that to say that kong cams are no good and my money would be better spent on more expensive cams like BD or WC?? any other suggestions..


Macciza

14-Mar-2007
10:51:21 PM

G'day - The KONG stuff is fine - the make excellent gear and have done so for ages - Compare the K
cams woth one of the leading brands I think it WC - they are identical except for the stem and clipping
stuff - K make them for WC most probably and that is why the K are cheaper - they make them.
The Kong gear I have used is excellent - it works, it's certified - end of story Oh and they are inexpensive
Buy yourself an extra one with the money you save
Cheers


Rayda

14-Mar-2007
10:51:31 PM

I bought some BD cams as mentioned from previous posts. I think they are solid beyond a doubt. As climbers mentioned, BD are reknown for ease of placement, all I have to say there is, they are all correct. You definately get what you pay for, of all the cams I have looked at, metolious, WC, DMM -- BD C4's gave me a better feel. NOW I am biased.

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