Mad Rock "Ultra Tech" HMS Screwgate. Hot Forged. Polished Silver body with a red gate. Great for belaying. 26kN. 9kN. 9kN. Gate
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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
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|length and diameter of cordalette
>after he'd converted to the cult of cordelettes?
I don't think so.
The original book was pretty basic but it included a cordelette in quite a few of his 'scenario setups'.
The follow up book was probably to address the newer generation of Sport Climbers who gained grades at an accelerated rate on bombproof protection but did not have the benefit of traditional mentoring for applying/evaluating complex belay setups. It expanded on the material covered in the 1st book and has a chapter devoted to cordelettes; and also a chapter devoted to big wall anchors. About the only newly incorporated stuff involved, was the 'atomic clip', ... actually a bowline on a bight; which is an old technique but newly 'discovered' as being good for bolt anchors!
The book was good because it had a lot more evaluative scenarios included. I found the more useful ones were where he had used the same location for the belay but redid it four different ways with appropriate critique. The big wall anchors section was good for demystifying the often cluttered arrangements.
>He has combined climbing anchors and more climbing anchors into one updated and expanded version.
He flagged this by saying in his introduction that "As other relevant information and photos come in, we'll round it up into another book".
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