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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Ropes Ropes Ropes
D_heritage
4-Nov-2017
8:11:51 AM
I am currently still rocking my 50 m Beal Edlinger I got when I first started climbing approaching 5 years ago and I have started the search for a new line. I am particularly looking at a set of 60 m half ropes for Araps when I usually have two seconds - two 10.2 mm ropes on a reverso is less than fun and thus looking for something thinner.
I was wondering if anyone has any top tips for rope suggestions. I also have the following questions:

Is a triple rated rope a gimmick or important for those times when you need to clip the same side for the last 5 pieces?

Is an 8.6 mm rope becoming a hassle? (as you can't [shouldn't] use a grigri, getting prossiks/ tiblocs etc. to grab?)

Has anyone got thoughts or opinions on the beal joker and cobra, petzl tango and volta, tendon master or any other ropes people have strong opinions towards?


E. Wells
4-Nov-2017
10:18:32 AM
I have liked Mammut half ropes (mainly because I have found bargains) and combine that with a megajul or reverso in and you only need one prussic to do 3:1 haul. Megajul is basically a grigri for doubles (as was alpinesmart etc etc) I have had mammut phoenix and now genesis?? I think , both 8mm and very good. Otherwise buty gerharts 80m joker and tie in in the middle.

Keenas
4-Nov-2017
1:47:33 PM
Mammut ropes are quality and good value, but don't go thinner than 8.3mm unless you're into saving weight over durability and wear and tear, nice soft catches on those thin ropes though! I've had Infinity and Serenity over the years and rate them up there.
I wouldn't bother with a single-rated rope, even in the mountains.
Martym
5-Nov-2017
5:38:27 PM
I've had a pair of Mammut Genesis since about 2009 - one rope had a few flat spots; so i have bought a Mammut Serenity - which is a thin single rope that you can use as a half rope - it's 8.7mm but according to Mammut:
"Triple-certified high-end rope for sports and alpine climbing at the highest level! With a diameter of 8.7 mm and weighing only 51 g/m the 8.7 Serenity is one of the thinnest and lightest single ropes. The high sheath proportion also makes it the most durable rope in its class."

Note - it doesn't grab well in a Gri Gri. Just be sure to keep your break hand firm.

Macciza
6-Nov-2017
5:37:37 AM
IMHO
No, triple-rated ropes are not a gimmick ... they have lots of pro's: being able to just climb on a single on easy pitches whilst still rigging for two seconds, extra confidence all round, options of half or double use, light single rope for projects etc...

8.6mm Yeah grigri could be a bit loose but there are other options.. Smaller diameter prussicks maybe needed if current ones are fat ones.. try 6mm to start, on a single rope it may need an extra turn for ultimate safety.... then go down from there if its too slippy, try 5.5mm ...

Best rope is the one I'm tied into ....
Cheers

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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