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When nut meets Biner

Poppy28

13-Oct-2016
11:23:37 AM

Hi guys.

What do we reckon the best solution for this problem:

Nut is placed, quick draw is clipped. However, where the biner meets the steel wire loop of the nut it is over an edge which will likely take load in a shitty way.

Would you suggest threading a sling through the wiring instead of a quick draw and popping a single biner on the end?

Cheers!

Doug

gordoste

13-Oct-2016
11:40:19 AM

Sling + wire raises alarm bells for me. I have had this before and just treated it like any other not-that-great piece - keep climbing, don't fall, and look for another ASAP.

JonSnow9

13-Oct-2016
12:01:03 PM

thread two wires together by the loops and clip the 2nd wire?

widewetandslippery

13-Oct-2016
12:07:29 PM

Bolt

gfdonc

13-Oct-2016
12:20:11 PM

What Gordo said, but I'd probably put a 2nd biner on it, too.

deadbudgy

13-Oct-2016
12:32:23 PM

On 13/10/2016 JonSnow9 wrote:
>thread two wires together by the loops and clip the 2nd wire?

This sounds like a fairly reasonable solution to me if the only other option is to treat it as suspect pro

BBSR

13-Oct-2016
2:13:18 PM

Guess it depends on the specifics of the placement etc

A locking biner might be an improvement, as with a biner over a edge you can tend to get the rock opening the biner, which is weaker. Doesn't really fix everything though, as you could still give it some stresses in ways they aren't designed for.

A better option might be slinging the nut a bit like a chockstone, and clipping the sling. You could even do this simply as a backup to the normal draw. Probably want to be careful if doing this that the way you sling the nut isn't going to spin it around, and dislodge it.

Poppy28

13-Oct-2016
2:27:21 PM

Thanks for the replies guys!

Found this on the UKclimbing forums as well for those with further interest.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=557553

In particular, reference to this dmm video:

http://dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/December-2011/Improvisation-Lark-s-Foot-or-Basket-Hitch

Will keep looking for those perfect placements ;)

Doug

gordoste

13-Oct-2016
3:08:10 PM

Interesting, seems like slinging a wire loop isn't a problem as long as you use the "basket hitch" (which appears to be just passing it through the loop). You learn something every day! Thanks for the tip Doug.

gfdonc

13-Oct-2016
3:10:28 PM

Or back it up with a second, slightly longer draw. First draw takes load and breaks biner, second one then has less load to deal with. Just another thought.

capt_planit

19-Oct-2016
1:37:31 PM

Basket Hitch ftw. Crab req. I think...

One Day Hero

21-Oct-2016
5:34:29 PM

On 13/10/2016 gfdonc wrote:
>Or back it up with a second, slightly longer draw. First draw takes load
>and breaks biner, second one then has less load to deal with. Just another retarded
>thought.

Biners loaded over edges can break at pathetically low forces, absorbing stuff all energy in the process. Avoid at all costs.

capt_planit

22-Oct-2016
1:22:29 PM

But it is soooo long over that sharp edge, a single doubled sling won't reach. What to do? Larks footed slings basket hitched back through the wire? Better just clip into that cross-loaded crab while you figure it all out...

There are 13 messages in this topic.