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What abseil knot do you mostly use? |
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6-Oct-2016 7:11:47 PM
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I searched and searched but can't find a definite discussion on Choky - Phil Box & Kierrn provide good info on the subject in Tech Tips: http://www.chockstone.org/techtips/JoinRopes.htm
But as someone who finds the EDK scary over the double fisherman's - I'm keen to hear other opinions. What abseil knot do you most use to combine two ropes of equal diameter?
Sparked by
this UK Climbing article.
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6-Oct-2016 7:36:57 PM
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Note - many of the links in the Tech Tip article no longer work; if you have good links add them here and perhaps they could be replaced?
Here's a good description of the overhand:
http://www.animatedknots.com/flatoverhand/#ScrollPoint
And from the UKC article:
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/climb-safe-what-is-the-safest-rappel-knot
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6-Oct-2016 8:50:36 PM
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On 6/10/2016 martym wrote:
>I searched and searched but can't find a definite discussion on Choky -
Maybe check some of the Chocky-links here?
;-)
I read that UK link earlier (before you posted it), and it simply confirmed (again) that what I have been using (like almost forever it would seem, due to being a 'mature' climbing fart!), is a good way to go...
To quote the article; "The double fisherman's knot is a classic way of joining two ropes together and for good reason."
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6-Oct-2016 9:01:38 PM
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A reef knot with a double fisherman on the ends is less bulky than a DF and easier to undo.
Do I win something ?
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6-Oct-2016 9:02:51 PM
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On 6/10/2016 MisterGribble wrote:
>A reef knot with a double fisherman on the ends is less bulky than a DF
>and easier to undo.
>
>Do I win something ?
Probably a free roasting on Chockstone...
Heh, heh, heh.
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6-Oct-2016 10:16:31 PM
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On 6/10/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 6/10/2016 martym wrote:
>>I searched and searched but can't find a definite discussion on Choky
>-
>Maybe check some of the Chocky-links
>here?
>;-)
Thanks M9 but none of those really satisfied my curiosity as to what people's experiences are; the most comprehensive discussion was "joining two ropes" but seemed to lack examples & links...
>I read that UK link earlier (before you posted it), and it simply confirmed
>(again) that what I have been using (like almost forever it would seem,
>due to being a 'mature' climbing fart!), is a good way to go...
>To quote the article; "The double fisherman's knot is a classic way
>of joining two ropes together and for good reason."
That makes me feel better...
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7-Oct-2016 8:55:14 AM
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On 6/10/2016 MisterGribble wrote:
>A reef knot with a double fisherman on the ends
This is what I've always done, simply because that's what I was taught. Have been wondering about a rethreaded figure 8 lately though.
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7-Oct-2016 9:17:44 AM
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Double fishermans.
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7-Oct-2016 9:50:20 AM
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EDK unless you're using new dry-coated ropes of different diameters. The loss of strength over a dbl fishermans (but still far more than abseil loads) is more than compensated for by the extra danger you may incur if your knot jambs.
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7-Oct-2016 10:37:47 AM
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Chinese Concrete Knot
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7-Oct-2016 1:49:43 PM
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Edk
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7-Oct-2016 3:47:28 PM
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EDK
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7-Oct-2016 4:21:39 PM
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EDK (Eduardo's Delicate Kamikaze) knot
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7-Oct-2016 4:39:24 PM
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I used a dbl fishermans... until it jammed on abseil after we had released the other end of the rope. I got to experience the horror that is gingerly prusiking a single strand, hoping that the stuck knot stays stuck.
Now I use an EDK.
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7-Oct-2016 6:09:59 PM
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On 7/10/2016 Drake wrote:
>I used a dbl fishermans... until it jammed on abseil after we had released
>the other end of the rope. I got to experience the horror that is gingerly
>prusiking a single strand, hoping that the stuck knot stays stuck.
>
>Now I use an EDK.
And that never happens with an EDK? Honest question - I just can't believe a knot is jam-proof...
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7-Oct-2016 6:32:28 PM
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On 7/10/2016 martym wrote:
>And that never happens with an EDK? Honest question - I just can't believe
>a knot is jam-proof...
Just less likely, but it will stick in a good bottleneck placement
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7-Oct-2016 7:00:11 PM
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Last year we had just the end of the tail (not the Knot itself) get caught while still 200 m above the ground necessitating climbing up to recover it. Subsequently decided to do 10 x 30 m abseils instead of 5 x 60 m abseils on a big descent.
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9-Oct-2016 8:20:21 AM
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>>> And that never happens with an EDK? Honest question - I just can't believe a knot is jam-proof...
The EDK is certainly not jam-proof. I think it is less likely to jam because it is physically smaller than other knots (i.e. dbl fishermans) and the flat bottom of the knot slides more easily over edges.
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9-Oct-2016 8:57:05 AM
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On 9/10/2016 Drake wrote:
>The EDK is certainly not jam-proof. I think it is less likely to jam
>because it is physically smaller than other knots (i.e. dbl fishermans)
>and the flat bottom of the knot slides more easily over edges.
It is also asymmetrical, so if it catches an edge, it'll tend to rotate away
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10-Oct-2016 11:37:37 AM
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Switched from double fishermans to EDK in the hope of getting less rope hang-ups. Still gives me the horrors occasionally, but it seems to be better at clearing obstacles, and certainly unties easier after loading.
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