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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
Overhand knot 37
71% 
Double Fisherman 12
23% 
Other... 3
6% 

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Author
What abseil knot do you mostly use?
martym
6-Oct-2016
7:11:47 PM
I searched and searched but can't find a definite discussion on Choky - Phil Box & Kierrn provide good info on the subject in Tech Tips: http://www.chockstone.org/techtips/JoinRopes.htm

But as someone who finds the EDK scary over the double fisherman's - I'm keen to hear other opinions. What abseil knot do you most use to combine two ropes of equal diameter?

Sparked by
this UK Climbing article.
martym
6-Oct-2016
7:36:57 PM
Note - many of the links in the Tech Tip article no longer work; if you have good links add them here and perhaps they could be replaced?
Here's a good description of the overhand:
http://www.animatedknots.com/flatoverhand/#ScrollPoint
And from the UKC article:
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/climb-safe-what-is-the-safest-rappel-knot

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Oct-2016
8:50:36 PM
On 6/10/2016 martym wrote:
>I searched and searched but can't find a definite discussion on Choky -
Maybe check some of the Chocky-links here?
;-)

I read that UK link earlier (before you posted it), and it simply confirmed (again) that what I have been using (like almost forever it would seem, due to being a 'mature' climbing fart!), is a good way to go...
To quote the article; "The double fisherman's knot is a classic way of joining two ropes together and for good reason."

MisterGribble
6-Oct-2016
9:01:38 PM
A reef knot with a double fisherman on the ends is less bulky than a DF and easier to undo.

Do I win something ?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6-Oct-2016
9:02:51 PM
On 6/10/2016 MisterGribble wrote:
>A reef knot with a double fisherman on the ends is less bulky than a DF
>and easier to undo.
>
>Do I win something ?

Probably a free roasting on Chockstone...
Heh, heh, heh.
martym
6-Oct-2016
10:16:31 PM
On 6/10/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 6/10/2016 martym wrote:
>>I searched and searched but can't find a definite discussion on Choky
>-
>Maybe check some of the Chocky-links
>here?
>;-)
Thanks M9 but none of those really satisfied my curiosity as to what people's experiences are; the most comprehensive discussion was "joining two ropes" but seemed to lack examples & links...


>I read that UK link earlier (before you posted it), and it simply confirmed
>(again) that what I have been using (like almost forever it would seem,
>due to being a 'mature' climbing fart!), is a good way to go...
>To quote the article; "The double fisherman's knot is a classic way
>of joining two ropes together and for good reason."

That makes me feel better...

Sabu
7-Oct-2016
8:55:14 AM
On 6/10/2016 MisterGribble wrote:
>A reef knot with a double fisherman on the ends

This is what I've always done, simply because that's what I was taught. Have been wondering about a rethreaded figure 8 lately though.
gfdonc
7-Oct-2016
9:17:44 AM
Double fishermans.
mikllaw
7-Oct-2016
9:50:20 AM
EDK unless you're using new dry-coated ropes of different diameters. The loss of strength over a dbl fishermans (but still far more than abseil loads) is more than compensated for by the extra danger you may incur if your knot jambs.
simey
7-Oct-2016
10:37:47 AM
Chinese Concrete Knot

E. Wells
7-Oct-2016
1:49:43 PM
Edk

shiltz
7-Oct-2016
3:47:28 PM
EDK

Eduardo Slabofvic
7-Oct-2016
4:21:39 PM
EDK (Eduardo's Delicate Kamikaze) knot

Drake
7-Oct-2016
4:39:24 PM
I used a dbl fishermans... until it jammed on abseil after we had released the other end of the rope. I got to experience the horror that is gingerly prusiking a single strand, hoping that the stuck knot stays stuck.

Now I use an EDK.
martym
7-Oct-2016
6:09:59 PM
On 7/10/2016 Drake wrote:
>I used a dbl fishermans... until it jammed on abseil after we had released
>the other end of the rope. I got to experience the horror that is gingerly
>prusiking a single strand, hoping that the stuck knot stays stuck.
>
>Now I use an EDK.
And that never happens with an EDK? Honest question - I just can't believe a knot is jam-proof...
mikllaw
7-Oct-2016
6:32:28 PM
On 7/10/2016 martym wrote:

>And that never happens with an EDK? Honest question - I just can't believe
>a knot is jam-proof...

Just less likely, but it will stick in a good bottleneck placement

JamesMc
7-Oct-2016
7:00:11 PM
Last year we had just the end of the tail (not the Knot itself) get caught while still 200 m above the ground necessitating climbing up to recover it. Subsequently decided to do 10 x 30 m abseils instead of 5 x 60 m abseils on a big descent.

Drake
9-Oct-2016
8:20:21 AM
>>> And that never happens with an EDK? Honest question - I just can't believe a knot is jam-proof...

The EDK is certainly not jam-proof. I think it is less likely to jam because it is physically smaller than other knots (i.e. dbl fishermans) and the flat bottom of the knot slides more easily over edges.
mikllaw
9-Oct-2016
8:57:05 AM
On 9/10/2016 Drake wrote:
>The EDK is certainly not jam-proof. I think it is less likely to jam
>because it is physically smaller than other knots (i.e. dbl fishermans)
>and the flat bottom of the knot slides more easily over edges.

It is also asymmetrical, so if it catches an edge, it'll tend to rotate away
technogeekery
10-Oct-2016
11:37:37 AM
Switched from double fishermans to EDK in the hope of getting less rope hang-ups. Still gives me the horrors occasionally, but it seems to be better at clearing obstacles, and certainly unties easier after loading.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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