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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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Author
crack climbing socks/gaiters
Wendy
30-Sep-2016
4:11:56 AM
That is an impressive amount of blood - but it doesn't seem to be coming from anywhere you would cover with gloves anyway. You'd be hard pressed to damage skin through tape gloves. I'd never advocate not using anything at all - when people are climbing barefoot, chalkless and naked they can criticise using tape to protect your skin. It's like climbing shoes. It often hurts and you wear out your skin without them. If you are jamming lots, you are going to want something no matter how good your technique. And the commercial gloves are a bit like beginner climbing shoes. You'll find it much easier to assess a jam and use marginal jams in tape. My reusable tape gloves last me for 3 months of use almost every day I go out (since I started nursing, I discovered that constant washing plus middle age have rendered my skin more fragile and any scrape is both painful with alcohol rub and an infection risk, so I just preemptively glove up. I didn't on our first day at RRG and promptly discovered I can't even go sport climbing without jamming and mangled my hand).

The most promising pair of gloves I ever tried were an old design by Ocun that you can't get anymore. The current ones from Ocun are too thick, too short and too little rubber. The layer of padding plus leather plus rubber sucked, plus it's a tiny patch of rubber and I kept finding that I ended up jamming on the velcro and the wrist band. I suspect that a longer design (they are sort of like crop tops on your hand) so they cinched lower on your wrist and abandon the padding and they would be better. The hand jammies are just generally too thick and solid but at least the wrist band is out of the way. They are ok in fat hand cracks. Then there was some bright green full rubber contraption Ali had at Frog one time. They were 3-4mm thick. Blurgh. I made a pair out of inner tube rubber once. They were a sweat fest.

So it appears that offwidth climbers do use tc pros but still, no one is in crack gloves. Or crack socks. I climb anything and everything in my moccasyms - including Angels, Electra, 5 fingered mary, Claw, Badfinger ... I'm at the creek at the moment and I have 3 pairs with me - a nicely broken in but super tight, sensitive and almost in need of first resold pair for thin stuff, a super comfy old pair that I would use for most things except I have gone through the leather on the top in multiple places and have to tape my toes underneath them, so I bought a new half size too large pair to replace them. I have been known to climb pure fist cracks in my access shoes because they are the perfect size for them and I imagine that something like the TC pro would be similar but better, but the moment a crack varies, I want the versatility of a sensitive shoe.

dhunchak
3-Oct-2016
9:45:27 AM
Outdoor research makes the best gloves I've tried. They're super thin, but I couldn't break them with all the abuse from my horrible technique. Cons: deet melts the finger loops, and the wrist strap is vulnerable and will wear through way before everything else. A quick piece of tape and you're back in business. For me speed is important, and putting on tape gloves just takes (me) forever. I also didn't like the granite day decision between mangled hands and waxed hands. I might re-evaluate when I turn pro.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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