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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
Author
crack climbing socks/gaiters
mikllaw
19-Sep-2016
8:14:48 AM
http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/software/climbing-shoes/saltic-neo
technogeekery
19-Sep-2016
10:14:47 AM
Just got a pair of Ocun crack gloves for my birthday - now I know what to put on my Xmas list :-)

shortman
19-Sep-2016
10:17:52 AM
Yeah these things would have come in handy on a few offwidths...

Drake
19-Sep-2016
1:28:29 PM
Yeah I think I'll stick with jeans and tape, thankyouverymuch
TimP
19-Sep-2016
5:03:11 PM
I got the TC pro's primarily for their ankle protection. Don't know why other shoes take this on as there is no restriction in ankle movement and way less blood!

ajfclark
19-Sep-2016
7:14:00 PM
I use 5.10 Grandstones for stuff that's a bit wide. They do a pretty decent job.
technogeekery
20-Sep-2016
1:19:34 PM
TimP - did you find those for sale in Aus? I'm keen on a pair, but want to try them on rather than ordering online. Haven't found a stockist in Sydney

Miguel75
20-Sep-2016
3:47:52 PM
On 19/09/2016 ajfclark wrote:
>I use 5.10 Grandstones for stuff that's a bit wide. They do a pretty decent
>job.

+1 for Grandstone's. They're ace!!

wallwombat
25-Sep-2016
11:01:32 AM
Yeah, I still have a pair of Sportiva Kaukulators for when I climb wide stuff........which is never.
TimP
25-Sep-2016
12:06:30 PM
On 20/09/2016 technogeekery wrote:
>TimP - did you find those for sale in Aus? I'm keen on a pair, but want
>to try them on rather than ordering online. Haven't found a stockist in
>Sydney
I got them at Bogong in Melbourne over a year ago. Don't see them around much anymore as they where expensive and may have been dropped by a lot of stores. Thought they might have come back after the Dawn Wall! I find them flatish inside, not so moulded as other shoes. I went for a bigger fit for comfort so can wear them for hours. My local crag is granite so my ankles love them!

phillipivan
25-Sep-2016
10:02:27 PM
I too have purchased them from Bogong. Also sized large, well at least the largest size in production. Mind you, after 14 hours, I'm still pretty keen to take them off.
Wendy
26-Sep-2016
1:14:33 AM
I remain unconvinced on crack gloves, crack socks and crack shoes. When do you ever see Steph Davis, Pamela Pack or the Wide boyz in these things? Steph even rejects reusable tape gloves and swears by moccasyms as the ultimate crack shoe. Thin tape and soft shoes let you feel what you are doing - yeah, i know people will say they don't want to feel what they are doing, that's the point. But if you can't feel what you are doing, you don't develop the technique. So you keep thinking you need to where mountains of protection. It seems they are marketed to the group of people getting into climbing crack, suffering badly, and then they prevent them learning how to climb crack without (or at least a lot less) suffering, and thus perpetuate their market. People don't climb hard cracks in them. I have tried 3 different brand of commercial gloves and returned to tape each time. Maybe if you are romping up fattish hands that don't need much technique, they are convenient and less wasteful, but the moment it gets tough, like with your climbing shoes, you need to pull out the snug and sensitive version.

ajfclark
26-Sep-2016
6:45:28 AM
On 26/09/2016 Wendy wrote:
>I remain unconvinced on crack gloves, crack socks and crack shoes. When
>do you ever see Steph Davis, Pamela Pack or the Wide boyz in these things?

When you watch carefully?

Is that a Grandstone in The Century Crack Project?


Pete Whittaker on 'Life Without Parole' V5 at the Dungeon in Vedauwoo:


Advertising their Wild Country Crack School:


Tom Randall upside down on 'On a Wing and a Prayer' 5.12c:


Pete Whittaker on 'Trip Master Monkey' 5.12b at Vedauwoo:


Tom Randall in 'Worm Drive' 5.11b (click to embiggen):


Pete Whittaker onsighting 'Squat' 5.12b


Pamela Pack is a La Sportiva ambasador and lists the TC Pro as her favourite shoe: http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/pro-climbing/pamela-shanti-pack

I don't own TC Pros so I'm not as good at picking them in pictures, but I think that what she's wearing in this one:


and here:


Steph Davis is a 5.10 athlete, but prefers the Moccasyms, LV VCS and Projects. All softer thinner shoes.

I don't find a great deal of pictures of her climbing wide stuff though and on her blog she often mentions climbing thinner stuff that I guess you can't get your feet into and so the higher sensitivity pays dividends and you don't need anything on your ankles?
TimP
26-Sep-2016
10:07:54 AM
On 26/09/2016 Wendy wrote:
>I remain unconvinced on crack gloves, crack socks and crack shoes.[…] Thin tape and soft shoes let you feel what you are
>doing - yeah, i know people will say they don't want to feel what they
>are doing, that's the point. But if you can't feel what you are doing,
>you don't develop the technique.

As a beginner crack climber I found crack climbing gloves reduced the pain so I could learn to weight a jam. Started to build a bit of technique and could then jam without the glove. I use reversed gardening gloves with the fingers cut out — very sensitive and no waste tape.

technogeekery
26-Sep-2016
11:52:16 AM
Wendy, I have enough scars, and my skin on the back of my hands doesn't recover like it used to - hence my interest in the gloves. I'm sure you are right that good technique reduces gobies - but even the best in the world lose a lot of skin when they are pushing. Looking at those photos upstream - while Pamela Shanti Pack is displaying great style on Muscle and Fitness, along with quite a lot of blood seeping through those tape glove! Here is a pic from her blog:



I haven't tried my Ocun gloves yet - will post up once I've given them a proper try. As for the crack socks - I have no intention of frequently doing climbs that might require them! I'm always impressed by wyde specialists, but no desire to emulate them.

TimP / Philipivan - Bogong have very limited sizes in stock, so not much opportunity to swap if they don't fit. How much stretch have you had since you bought them? I'd like to size them comfortably, but have done that with boots before that subsequently became unusably sloppy due to unlined uppers stretching. I have a pair of La Sportiva Mythos (44.5) that were perfect when I bought them and now just roll off small holds.

gfdonc
26-Sep-2016
2:32:32 PM
I've been using crack gloves for a while and I like them - but for different reasons.

I just find tape really fiddly - it takes a while to get taped up and then if you only do one or two crack routes you pull it all off and start again.

Yes in theory you can remove and reapply but in practice that just ends up a sticky mess*.

I've been using an older leather-and-rubber* style of mitt (known by peers as "girly gloves") but they've ripped apart once or twice and are now held together with lots of stitching. Prompted by this thread, and having seen a pair in the wild recently, my new Ocuns are now on their way.

ST

* acknowledging gratuitous opportunities for innuendo by the smuttier members of the forum. You know who you are.
TimP
26-Sep-2016
3:51:28 PM
On 26/09/2016 technogeekery wrote:
>TimP / Philipivan - Bogong have very limited sizes in stock, so not much
>opportunity to swap if they don't fit. How much stretch have you had since
>you bought them? I'd like to size them comfortably, but have done that
>with boots before that subsequently became unusably sloppy due to unlined
>uppers stretching. I have a pair of La Sportiva Mythos (44.5) that were
>perfect when I bought them and now just roll off small holds.

I wear them pretty loose as suits my climbing style… sadly not at TC level, so haven't noticed any stretch. They are unlined so theoreticatly could stretch, thought the slingshot rand covers a lot of the shoe sides. The tongue is well padded, part of the comfort, so can adapt to different foot volumes.The lacing pattern seems good to crank them on and the padded tongue helps with this too. No noticeable tongue padding collapse yet. Not much instep shaping — fairly flat inside. I got a comfortable length fit so not sure how they'd be if fitted tight lengthways.
I lost my mojo for the perfect shoe when climbing with a friend who climbed an 18 in old approach shoes that I could't do the first move on!
technogeekery
27-Sep-2016
1:53:17 PM
Thanks for that, very useful.

Yes, I'm not really expecting it to do a lot for my climbing ability, but these seem to be lauded as the ultimate shoe for the type of climbing I do, so I don't mind splashing out a bit for the psychological advantage :-)

phillipivan
27-Sep-2016
9:09:03 PM
Yo, they have stretched, but considerably less than my mythos. My 45.5s are still tight after three or four resoles (so i bought a 2nd pair at 46).

technogeekery
28-Sep-2016
1:42:46 PM
Thanks phillip

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There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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