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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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Freak occurrence? Bolt plate coming off

One Day Hero

17-Jun-2016
2:55:31 PM

On 17/06/2016 sbm wrote:
>plenty of people in the younger generation interested
>in climbing beyond sport clip-ups - but it's increasingly difficult for
>them to get the hands on the gear needed to use carrots properly as protection.

So you propose to fix the probelrm by turning every route into a sport clip up?

>Name a quickdraw or biner. Name one a new climber can buy that works well
>with carrots. Not a troll: what should we be buying?

I just had a quick look at climbing anchors, this guy looks pretty good. http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/camp-orbit-solid-straight-gate-grey You're welcome.


The good Dr

17-Jun-2016
3:39:19 PM

On 17/06/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 17/06/2016 sbm wrote:
>>plenty of people in the younger generation interested
>>in climbing beyond sport clip-ups - but it's increasingly difficult for
>>them to get the hands on the gear needed to use carrots properly as protection.
>
>So you propose to fix the probelrm by turning every route into a sport
>clip up?

No one said that. But nothing like a bit of overly emotive language to stir the pot ;)

>
>
>>Name a quickdraw or biner. Name one a new climber can buy that works
>well
>>with carrots. Not a troll: what should we be buying?
>
>I just had a quick look at climbing anchors, this guy looks pretty good.
>http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/camp-orbit-solid-straight-gate-grey
>You're welcome.

Wouldn't be sure about those without testing them. The BD Light Ds and Ovals are generally suitable (if the pin inserts don't crack). I use my old Kong biners (like the newer Kong Guides) as my Buffalo set. I carry a few suitable draws just in case.

There are biners out there, but they are often the dinosaurs of the range available.

One Day Hero

17-Jun-2016
3:47:14 PM

On 17/06/2016 The good Dr wrote:
>There are biners out there, but they are often the dinosaurs of the range
>available.

There should be an almost limitless supply available second hand. Cheap Clog and BD biners from the 90's are good and were bought in massive numbers. A dozen is all anyone should need, so fifty bucks later I wish all the whiners would stfu.


Zarb

17-Jun-2016
3:51:32 PM

On 17/06/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 17/06/2016 sbm wrote:
>>plenty of people in the younger generation interested
>>in climbing beyond sport clip-ups - but it's increasingly difficult for
>>them to get the hands on the gear needed to use carrots properly as protection.
>
>So you propose to fix the probelrm by turning every route into a sport
>clip up?
>
>
>>Name a quickdraw or biner. Name one a new climber can buy that works
>well
>>with carrots. Not a troll: what should we be buying?
>
>I just had a quick look at climbing anchors, this guy looks pretty good.
>http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/camp-orbit-solid-straight-gate-grey
>You're welcome.

I've got a couple of these guys to throw on my quickdraws now:
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products/product.asp?_item=100093
No tapering nose like on my Photons.

DJ Biggs

17-Jun-2016
11:45:43 PM

What's arbitrary about it? Pretty sure they are evidence based with a margin added for engineers, insurers and lawyers piece of mind.

One Day Hero

18-Jun-2016
3:15:41 PM

On 17/06/2016 DJ Biggs wrote:
>What's arbitrary about it?

I doubt that they've seen or tested any carrot/hanger combos. I don't think that RPs meet any standards either, doesn't mean they don't work.

What you don't want is the whole of climbing to come under a set of best practice standards. A good example of how quickly things get shithouse is the David Lama debacle on Cerro Torre, where his film crew were required by their rope access standards to bolt next to cracks.

If people aren't comfortable climbing on carrots, that's fine, they should fuch off back to the sport crags.

There are 46 messages in this topic.