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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Edelrid Ohm. For fat asses.

Zarb
20-Mar-2016
12:32:57 PM
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=8217

Looks like an interesting piece of gear. Although I'm still heavier than the recommended weight difference even with the device in use...

deadbudgy
24-Mar-2017
4:24:38 PM
Anyone actually tried one of these in the real world yet? Any good?

E. Wells
24-Mar-2017
4:45:35 PM
I have one. Our weight ratio is basically 2:1 im ashamed to say , however I havent used it , it has come to the crag three times in my bag but keep forgeting to hook it up. Might be ok with a skinny stretchy rope so hard catches arent too uncomfortable. If I get out this w/e I will give it a whirl and report back.

JamesMc
24-Mar-2017
9:27:42 PM
l reckon it would lift my first runner out
rightarmbad
24-Mar-2017
10:16:51 PM
I want one

E. Wells
25-Mar-2017
11:59:18 AM
Just gave it a whirl on a face route, the lesser one likes it. Makes lowering the greater one much easier (I am not lifting her off the ground). Took a little fall at fourth draw and being 85kg it was still soft enough , belayer still had feet on ground. Gonna take some bigger ones later.

E. Wells
25-Mar-2017
12:52:46 PM
Took a fall high on a steep climb with 1.5 armfulls of slack out and it worked well. My rope is 9.4 and very stretchy which helps. I made no effort to clip slowly while pumped and it didnt catch. However I did deliberately pull rope up to clip at an unreasonably fast pace and yes..you get short roped. To me thats just forcing better style , I may be disgruntled when im frothing genuinely clipping in a bad headspace.

E. Wells
25-Mar-2017
6:46:49 PM
We also used the ohm on a route which traversed after the first bolt , and it engaged as it was pulled sideways , resulting in a downclimb quickdraw swapsy. So useless unless second draw is somewhat above first.
rightarmbad
26-Mar-2017
1:21:33 AM
Just a thought, but I wonder if it could prevent a Gri Gri from locking up the same way as grabbing the rope on the climbers side?

E. Wells
26-Mar-2017
10:50:46 AM
We gave it a run for its money (8m falls) and it seems fine. It never fully locks up. If your belayer gave you enough slack to hit the ground.....you would hit the ground! It just engages and assists with extra friction at the same time a device would engage. The down side is you dont get the soft catch that a body lifting off the ground offers.
mikllaw
26-Mar-2017
7:36:07 PM
On 26/03/2017 E. Wells wrote:
The down side is you dont get the
>soft catch that a body lifting off the ground offers.,,,,

Small people never get that with us

deadbudgy
27-Mar-2017
1:05:48 PM
Thanks for the feedback E.Wells!
Its not super cheap, do you think it is worth the money?
Also (stupid question probably), this thing should only be clipped to fixed pro, correct?
rightarmbad
27-Mar-2017
7:41:42 PM
Wouldn't be hard to just place a piece for upward pull.

E. Wells
27-Mar-2017
9:26:37 PM
I saw one cheap otherwise would never pay what they are asking. Its hard for me to judge its value. Would be good for indoor leads where there is very straight lines and little drag. It would be fine on a multi directional or upward peice built in , it doesnt require so much upward force as you might expect due to weight of unit. Id say wait a year and every other manufacturer will have some equivalent and prices should come down with qaulity. Downside of using it on trad is harder catches so I personally wouldnt if the gear was small etc... , the main thing I noticed was when I was being lowered usually belayer is hardly touching ground and really does struggle with the lever on grigri , now she is planted and lowering me just as if I weighed the same as all the other people around. It makes me feel slimmer and that goes a long way toward repairing my self esteem.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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