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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
Author
Clipping in with a daisy chain

ajfclark
8-Sep-2010
4:50:55 PM
A 90cm fall onto something stretchy (like a dynamic rope) doesn't hurt. A 90cm fall onto something static (like a sling) does. Also, falling a long way relative to the amount of material absorbing the fall increases the forces. Slumping 1m when you have 10m of rope out is different to slumping 1m when you have 2m of rope out.

MonkeyBoy
8-Sep-2010
5:00:58 PM
Also have a look at these that were posted in a thread talking about fall factors.

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5

Butters81
8-Sep-2010
5:02:37 PM
So the Chain Reactor can withstand 3 factor 2 falls? How about the person in the harness?
All this chatter about daisies is a bit old really

dave h.
8-Sep-2010
5:06:06 PM
On 8/09/2010 Butters81 wrote:
>So the Chain Reactor can withstand 3 factor 2 falls? How about the person
>in the harness?

I assume they mean 'absorb the energy of'.

>All this chatter about daisies is a bit old really
+1. But better that people who already know about it get sick of rehashed conversations than some newer climber goes and gets killed because no-one ever talks about it.

voodoo
8-Sep-2010
5:15:50 PM
On 8/09/2010 dave h. wrote:
>The Sterling Chain Reactor (pretty much their answer to the PAS) has some
>dynamic properties, and is meant to be able to absorb 3 falls of factor 2.

What tosh. Chain Reactors and PAS's aren't dynamic at all - they're constructed out of standard nylon/dyneema webbing.

You're reading too much into their loose marketing words. When they say "absorbs enough energy to withstand three factor 2 drops" what they mean is it didn't break after 3 factor 2 drops, not that it's absorbing that energy with a low impact force. I mean an 11mm static rope can withstand (and therefore 'absorb') a number of factor 2 drops, that doesn't make it all of a sudden dynamic.
egosan
8-Sep-2010
5:39:04 PM
I looked at the Chain Reactor. It is just a tough nylon daisy replacement. It may survive 3 factor 2 falls, I doubt your spine will. It has only the energy absorption of a nylon sling.

dave h.
8-Sep-2010
5:41:17 PM
On 8/09/2010 voodoo wrote:
>What tosh. Chain Reactors and PAS's aren't dynamic at all - they're constructed
>out of standard nylon/dyneema webbing.

Whatever. Don't expose it to a fall of ff2. End of problem.

voodoo
8-Sep-2010
7:07:47 PM
On 8/09/2010 davidn wrote:
>Not really, cause you could still break yourself on a FF1.

Yeah, on the DMM website they have a pretty modest 60cm fall factor 1 fall onto a sling listed as 16.7kN - which is no fun at all. Even 30cm (the length of a quickdraw and some biners) nets 14kN.
Richard Delaney
8-Sep-2010
7:18:37 PM
There has been heaps of testing done about this stuff.
I even did some to scare overzealous staff using daisy chains for a bit too much. We dropped 80kg of weights onto my old BD daisy. The weights were lifted above the anchor to the length of the daisy and then dropped to what would hove been a free hanging position below - except, predictably, the daisy snapped and dropped the weights to the ground.
Daisies are fine when clipped to something at, or above, waist height and kept in tension.

Re: dynamic vs static rope cows tails.
I don't have the ref to the paper here but if you google the British HSE tests for lanyards I'm sure it'll turn up quickly. Bottom line, 11mm dynamic rope cows tails with knots at both ends perform almost as well as lanyards with built in energy absorbing units - ie they limited the peak impact force to about 6kN.
Life-on-a-line points out the same - suggesting the barrel knot at the biner, fig8 knot at harness configuration as the best. Static rope performed significantly worse as did any rope with sewn terminations.

Richard
Richard Delaney
9-Sep-2010
6:33:53 AM
Found one of them: http://www.irata.org/pdf_word/lanyardtest.pdf

ajfclark
26-Aug-2015
5:50:11 PM
On 8/09/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>On 8/09/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>I have taken factor 1 falls onto dynamic and static 600mm lanyards and they both aren't nice.
>
>Watching Sharma forgetting to unclip from a bolt before moving off (~28 minutes into King Lines) was the closest I ever want to be to something like that.

Sharma recently posted this clip to his instagram account

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26-Aug-2015
7:32:05 PM
On 26/08/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>On 8/09/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>>On 8/09/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>>I have taken factor 1 falls onto dynamic and static 600mm lanyards and
>they both aren't nice.
>>
>>Watching Sharma forgetting to unclip from a bolt before moving off (~28
>minutes into King Lines) was the closest I ever want to be to something
>like that.
>
>Sharma recently posted this clip to his instagram account

"working out the moves on what would become Three Degrees Of Seperation. I got a little carried away and forgot to unclip from the bolt. Ufff!! Not fun. One of the most violent, static falls. Bad idea hahah"


Violent?
Pffft.
Lightweight.

If he wants half* violent, he should take a fall from the same height and get caught by a fifi hook girth hitched to harness (read 1+ metre fall onto very short length of static cord plus hook length, ie approx 100 mm), ... I will let the readers work out the fall factor for themselves...

I have done the above, and the daisy (also girth hitched to same point on harness), that I had left attached to the lower piece of protection, which the fifi snagged, did not take the fall.

(*I wouldn't consider it violent until the fifi cord breaks!!)
;-)

Post edit:
Yes, I suffered bruising on my waist from my harness as a result of that fall.
No, although it was half-painful, it did not particularly rate on the pain register scale due to an injury I had sustained to my rib-cage the day before, which was still fresh in my memory/body.
lightfoot
27-Aug-2015
2:15:43 PM
I use a 7mm Purcell prussik from a half moon mallion mirroring my belay loop to a twist gate locker. The Purcell is adjustable and provided you have some adjustment left, the prussik will slip reducing the force on you and the system. It's probably been done to death here but I reckon it's the business!
Good study here www.paci.com.au › knots › 13_Report_...

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
There are 33 messages in this topic.

 

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