BOA (HMS)Keylock Screwgate 25 10 8 kN
Steve's favourite belay screwgate.
Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
@Howsie: Ha, Bryce does love to sell you things. Note he is selling the Aspiring anchor chain - NZ-made, not Metolius, so buy it. They really are fiendishly convenient, but combine that with a spectra cordelette (he'll sell you one of those too) or a pair of abseil bolts and suddenly there is nothing dynamic in the setup except your body. Ouch. Keep the slack out of the system...
My favourite building-an-anchor-with-the-rope snafu was at Buffalo. Got to a hanging belay and needed a secondary anchor point to haul off of. You can use the lead rope to build a main anchor, so you can use the haul line to build a hauling anchor right? Look at me, solving problems on the wall.
Bring the others up, haul, dock the wombat to the hauling anchor, give the new leader the rack, and now just hand him the end of the haul line to trail............ah........ok we have an actual problem now.
On 18/03/2014 pmonks wrote:
>+2. I used to be a die-hard "use the rope for the anchor" kind of guy
>(and still do that from time to time), but the PAS is faster and easier,
>particularly on multi-pitch sport routes. I suspect it also makes it easier
>to escape the belay should the need arise, but I haven't had to test that
>theory yet (touch wood).
Do you mean that you use the PAS for your anchoring on multipitch routes?
This is the same PAS that would be girth hitched into your harness as your attachment to the anchor?
If so, could you explain a mechanism to me of quickly escaping a belay that doesn't involve using a sling, cordalette or rope to construct a seperate master point? If you've used a PAS that is girth hitched to your harness as the connector between pieces of gear, I honestly can't see how you'd get out of the system without creating another anchor matrix, or cutting the PAS from your harness.
On 18/03/2014 sbm wrote:
>My favourite building-an-anchor-with-the-rope snafu was at Buffalo. Got
>to a hanging belay and needed a secondary anchor point to haul off of.
>You can use the lead rope to build a main anchor, so you can use the haul
>line to build a hauling anchor right? Look at me, solving problems on the
>Bring the others up, haul, dock the wombat to the hauling anchor, give
>the new leader the rack, and now just hand him the end of the haul line
>to trail............ah........ok we have an actual problem now.
... ~> That snippet of info failed to make it into your Defender/aidfest trip report!
Heh, heh, heh.
There are 44 messages in this topic.
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