Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author

Marco Pedrinis death knot

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2014
7:09:52 PM

sorry if i got the spelling of the blokes last name wrong.

first solo of the compresser route and a ground breaking alpinist.

to my knowledge his death in the alps was due to unloading a knot that required tying on load and then would unleash when unloaded. in my teens i played with this knot. it works. I can't currently find any info on this knot. I want to use it for short descents on thin cord. anyone have any info or links to how to tie it? my faded brain has had me deck out of the the in the yard a couple of times. I currently have a broken elbow and the misses is going to beat the hell out of me if i do anymore homegrown research without some input.

anyone can help?

Dr Nick

10-Feb-2014
7:22:59 PM

This one, or something similar?

(Googled "Mexican Canyon Knot")

http://www.bogley.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=55532

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2014
7:40:00 PM

na, single rope, know that trick very good for large trees and rocks. Thanks anyway mate.

Macciza

10-Feb-2014
8:04:39 PM

Hi
The one I know and have tried and used successfully is the ,hmmm best check it name, I tend to call it a Shackleton anchor, only to be used in life or death situations beyond hope . . .

Checking the net, it's called a Blackwall hitch - used with hooks usually but a sharp angle D works as well.
It's related to Becket hitches and so also has similarities to SheetBends and Bowlines

Take the top end of rope through basket of biner, then bend around the spine and back through the basket but under the load end - load keeps knot tight, no load allows it to loosen and fail....

Have fun . . . .

mikllaw

10-Feb-2014
8:07:40 PM

Asley book of knots # 2535

Macciza

10-Feb-2014
8:11:48 PM

Actually can come up with a pretty good knot using kind of half a sheet bend. ...

Pass tail through biner, put a loop in load rope and push a bight through from the tail rope side ...
Might have to check this one out a bit more first but seems possible ....

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2014
8:43:07 PM

thanks guys, to be used for short descents exploratory bushwalking where down climbing looks worse than using this system, especially being one armed.

will have another go on the tree in the yard tomorrow and report on results.

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2014
9:13:34 PM

btw, any archivists it would be great if you could drag out any Marco stories. He was the real deal. fast, light solo. Athol Whimps solo of the compressor probably 10 years later is also very impressive.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Feb-2014
9:13:37 PM

On 10/02/2014 widewetandslippery wrote:
>thanks guys, to be used for short descents exploratory bushwalking where
>down climbing looks worse than using this system, especially being one
>armed.
>
>will have another go on the tree in the yard tomorrow and report on results.

~> It is gunnabeinteresting typing a report if you break your other elbow...
☻

So, now being a one armed ~~bandit~~ paddler, are you rowing in circles with the packraft?
Heh, heh, heh.

widewetandslippery

10-Feb-2014
9:16:10 PM

i'm always going round in circles, you know that Rod

IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Feb-2014
9:28:01 PM

On 10/02/2014 widewetandslippery wrote:
>i'm always going round in circles, you know that Rod

Ok then, here is some more grist for the circular mill...
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/site/aajsearch/?zoom_sort=0&zoom_query=Marco+Pedrini&zoom_per_page=10&zoom_and=1&zoom_cat[]=-1

~> He certainly did some interesting stuff...

widewetandslippery

11-Feb-2014
7:20:17 PM

ok, did some practise in Lew Hoad reserve (bouldering spot behind glebe police boys club (google Lew, champion) and decked a few times when under vertical. when i slung myself from a tree branch and then attached under tension for a free hanging abseil it, whilst terrifying, went well numerous times.

m9 thanks for the links. pedrini article in mountain was in the second or third i bought. totally inspiring, even if it wasnt the course of climbing i followed its hard not to be inspired by the likes of him and the seminal Voytek art of suffering articles. you can do more.

Dr Nick

11-Feb-2014
10:51:59 PM

How are Sax's climbs these day?

There are 13 messages in this topic.