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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
Author
Buying a Trad Rack
Wendy
6/02/2014
5:57:30 PM
On 6/02/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>>
>>those 2 racks
>>of rocks also got placed in their entirety in Bad Luck Streak. And Eternity.
>>And Janicepts. I do admit to carrying more than a double set of cams
>up
>>all of those as well though. And placing almost every one of them too.
>
>I made sure to include a couple of routes (Grey Mist is another) which
>suck up wires, just to make the game harder/impossible :)
>
>Sure, you can put lots of wires into the routes you mentioned, but the
>hard bits on all of those routes are best protected by hand cams.

Piffle. The hand crack on Eternity is a walk in the park. Even I run it out! The gear all went in above it. The thin fingers/facey bit of bad luck streak. The top of Janicepts. Hand cracks are easy! The hard stuff is either fat or skinny. So maybe this guy should actually just buy micro cams and big cams :)
One Day Hero
6/02/2014
10:03:52 PM
On 6/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>Piffle. The hand crack on Eternity is a walk in the park. Even I run it
>out!

You mean the hand crack for midgets and children? Sure, it isn't that hard, but the route is only 17 so none of it is very hard. How the hell did you manage to put 2 sets of wires into the 10m of easy slab at the top?
Wendy
7/02/2014
7:43:45 AM
How long has it been since you've done it? The bottom hand crack is 3-4m of the route. there's actually a lot more climbing above it, and I found the very top bit the hardest and scariest (these things often correlate for the less obvious reason - anything feels harder if the gear is below my waist). And that crack is red and gold camalot sized - not that thin really. But anyway, surely you know by know I can place record amounts of gear in anything. I didn't use up all my gear in Grey Mist, just for a change of theme.
One Day Hero
7/02/2014
4:55:23 PM
On 7/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>How long has it been since you've done it?
Followed Jurg up the thing on new years morning, but we might have still been a smidge tipsy so not sure if it counts.

Look, we're getting way off topic here. I think Batey is handing out bullshit rack advice, leading those routes with a single set of cams will have the leader with only one piece between themselves and the deck quite often. Wendy is confusing everything by simultaneously saying that things are really easy (she has 10 bloody grades in hand, of course it's easy!), and that placing 25 bits of gear on a 25m pitch is necessary and/or rational (it isn't!)

nmonteith
7/02/2014
6:20:18 PM
Wendy should be banned from any commentary about rack advice! A piece every 1m is not normal.
Wendy
7/02/2014
6:21:45 PM
Yeah, I know, that's really running it out and I should tone it down a bit, I'll start to scare people.

Anyway Damo, didn't you, I and Neil all agree on a reasonable rack way back on page one?

freesolo
7/02/2014
6:50:33 PM
heya, sent you a PM. cheers.
Reluctant
7/02/2014
7:03:29 PM
I've read this thread with amusement. All oldies (me too) raving on ad nauseum about this and that. They forget that as a young beginner your broke (money goes to beer and other important things first).

Second a local. Watch what they place and their rack. Adjust for what you like. And 5 years later you will find you have bought heaps of stuff you don't need or want but to start watch the oldies because they only carry up what they need. Their artificial hips won't take a big load.

Removing as a second teaches you what gear works.

Now I've ranted I need to take a Bex (look it up) and have a lie down.
One Day Hero
7/02/2014
7:13:29 PM
On 7/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>Anyway Damo, didn't you, I and Neil all agree on a reasonable rack way
>back on page one?

So what are we even talking about now? ;)

stugang
7/02/2014
9:30:25 PM
On 7/02/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 7/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>>How long has it been since you've done it?
>Followed Jurg up the thing on new years morning, but we might have still
>been a smidge tipsy so not sure if it counts.
>
>Look, we're getting way off topic here. I think Batey is handing out bullshit
>rack advice, leading those routes with a single set of cams will have the
>leader with only one piece between themselves and the deck quite often.
>Wendy is confusing everything by simultaneously saying that things are
>really easy (she has 10 bloody grades in hand, of course it's easy!), and
>that placing 25 bits of gear on a 25m pitch is necessary and/or rational
>(it isn't!)

a set (and a half) of wires and a set of cams is fine for pretty much everything in oz. I've never been to frog so maybe thats the exception. Forget what the hero has to say unless you are trying to beat the hero and do 20 pitches a day.

Edit: plus a bunch of RPs with doubles in the smaller sizes.
One Day Hero
8/02/2014
12:03:14 AM
On 7/02/2014 stugang wrote:
>a set (and a half) of wires and a set of cams is fine for pretty much
>everything in oz.

What about 0 rp's? Surely a couple of those are crucial in case you need to stack them together?

wallwombat
8/02/2014
2:53:16 AM
Goodness gracious me, the are a lot of c--k socks around.


On 7/02/2014 stugang wrote:
>a set (and a half) of wires and a set of cams is fine for pretty much
>everything in oz.

Stugang is right.

Maybe triple up on #2,and a 1/2 friends. They seem to work well in the horizontal breaks up there, .
.

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
There are 72 messages in this topic.

 

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