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Wave Bolts


shortman

13-Dec-2013
3:18:27 PM

Anyone tried these things??

http://wavebolt.com/


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Dec-2013
3:30:12 PM

On 13/12/2013 shortman wrote:
>Anyone tried these things??
>
>http://wavebolt.com/

Dunno what it is about, as my anti-virus detected faults with that site, and I am not prepared to look further...


rodw

13-Dec-2013
3:31:04 PM

Considering your standard ring or U are cheaper and over engineered in terms of strength anyway I can't see the reason to use em..the noozles are cheap though at $1.50 ea, wonder if they fit powers kf2 glue tube?


rodw

13-Dec-2013
3:33:12 PM

Juts check out the youtube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BSxQKnOZJM4


nmonteith

14-Dec-2013
1:06:11 AM

I've never used then but they sound pretty cool if their claim about being able to weight then immediately after placement is accurate. Bolting steep stuff with glue ins is a big pain usually - involving dogging bolts and hooks. I reckon using these sparingly with normal rings or Us would be a great idea. $6 each isn't too bad a price.

mikllaw

14-Dec-2013
11:17:33 AM

'weight them', not 'fall on them' I reckon. just like a Ubolt.
Jim Titt's bolts look to have better straight out strength, when you load the eye , it twists and the legs cross and spread.

Jim Titt

15-Dec-2013
3:32:57 AM

Neither Chris nor myself are certifying our bolts without glue for falls, just giving the sort of holding power you MIGHT get if you load one before the glue sets. Unhardened mortar may well be sufficient lubrication to significantly reduce the holding power. The rock used in the testing makes a considerable difference as well making a direct comparison difficult anyway.
The idea is to provide a bolt which can be set in overhanging rock without falling out before the glue sets or doesn´t move when you jumar past it and kick it with your foot. Lead bolting with glue-ins is fundamentally a crap job anyway, gives compromised bolt positions and increases the chances of gluing badly, I usually aid the route in sections, abseil and drill and glue properly.


E. Wells

15-Dec-2013
6:50:45 PM

Is it ok to use bathroom silicone sealant to glue in my Anka-bolts?


rodw

15-Dec-2013
7:55:24 PM

Only on sea cliffs.

lacto

15-Dec-2013
8:56:23 PM

On 15/12/2013 E. Wells wrote:
>Is it ok to use bathroom silicone sealant to glue in my Anka-bolts?
Not bathroom but toilet silicone is fine as it does a "shit " job


Macciza

16-Dec-2013
12:09:22 AM

Interesting idea - I guess so, I guess it depends . ..
How and why? Just a little dab where it enters the rock once you've placed it but certainly not if you were think of using it like glue . . . It might minimise rust a little but ultimately it depends on chloride and moisture content in the rock itself . . .

Also you would only want to be doing for a fairly long term installation in which case you really should be using good quality hot-dipped galvanised masonry screw-bolts not shoddy zinc plated stuff . . .


robbie

16-Dec-2013
9:40:08 PM

The definition of a bolt.
An externally threaded, cylindrical fastener with a head at one end and a threaded blunt end at the other. Bolts are designed to fit into non-threaded holes to join parts and are assembled with a nut.


JamesMc

16-Dec-2013
9:52:35 PM

I thought a bolt was the thing you fire from a cross bow or a length of cloth.


Robbie

17-Dec-2013
11:16:06 AM

Yep, and your BOLT of lightening..........

17-Dec-2013
11:22:13 AM

What do you fire from a "length of cloth"?

pecheur

15-Jan-2014
9:00:01 AM

Rock and Ice wrote quite a complimentary review:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/climbtech-glue-in-wave-bolt-review

gfdonc

15-Jan-2014
9:16:34 AM

"Another advantage of Wave Bolts is that since they are made in the U.S., they are sized in inches rather than millimeters. No more having to purchase expensive, hard to find metric drill bits!"

Er .. I think they lost us all on that one.

martym

16-Jan-2014
10:48:45 AM

On 15/01/2014 gfdonc wrote:
>"Another advantage of Wave Bolts is that since they are made in the U.S.,
>they are sized in inches rather than millimeters. No more having to purchase
>expensive, hard to find metric drill bits!"
>
>Er .. I think they lost us all on that one.

I remember in Europe - whenever I was using a multilingual system & selected "English" it would convert all measurements to inches and pounds... where as in all other European languages it was in cm/kgs
Is it harder to try your language skills or constantly convert inches to cm...


ajfclark

16-Jan-2014
10:55:47 AM

Google Chrome recognises when a page is in a foreign language and will offer to translate it for you but it doesn't notice the measurements issue yet so I'd go with the language option.

pecheur

16-Jan-2014
11:06:47 AM

On 15/01/2014 gfdonc wrote:
>"Another advantage of Wave Bolts is that since they are made in the U.S.,
>they are sized in inches rather than millimeters. No more having to purchase
>expensive, hard to find metric drill bits!"
>
>Er .. I think they lost us all on that one.
>
On the positive side it is relatively easy to get Imperial drill bits here, I'd imagine it'd be much more difficult to source metric drill bits in the US.

There are 24 messages in this topic.