"ATC" Belay device - Suits 9-11mm ropes - Great all-rounder.
Anodised Dark Blue.
Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
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|Have you ever stacked nuts?
I've used them once. It was at the belay on Bulger, at Araps.
For some reason I hadn't taken much gear up with (maybe lending some to a mate?...) and I got up to the legd, got two decent pieces, and was faffing around looking for a third. Eventually I threw a hex into a crack and nut on top of it, and had a hex/nut stacked combo!
Seemed good enough, I tested it pretty thoroughly, but it's not something I aim to do regularly.
Simond make these Camerocks which are nuts with horizontal grooves to aid stacking. Haven't seen them in person, or stacked any other nuts for that matter.
On 18/12/2013 m_smith wrote:
>Simond make these Camerocks which are nuts with horizontal grooves to aid
>stacking. Haven't seen them in person, or stacked any other nuts for that
I borrowed a set of those once, used them, but didn't like them much for the following reasons;
* Like mikl said earlier, they sometimes...
>required you to be Siva the 3 handed god to place
* Like Mrs M10 mentioned, some placements required keeper slings, so as to not lose the additional nut if things became separated.
I found having double-slung nuts on one cord much easier to use; along with the ability to rotate one of the nuts to an extent often helps in some placements, whereas the locking-groove style of stacked nuts that you link to, limits use to one alignment.
On 13/12/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 12/12/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>>On 12/12/2013 Snacks wrote:
>>>I guess the question is how much worse are they than a non-stacked piece
>>>that fits the same sized placement.
>The only way they are worse, is that they are so secure that they can
>be a real bugger to remove by the second!
>They really came into their own pre-cam days for parallel cracks where
>no other nut placements would work.
>>They are wobbly in a good placement, but not too bad in a parallel
>>Before cams they were used a bit at frog buttress
>I beg to differ about them being wobbly.
>They are not hard to set and your second won't thank you if you set them
>I find them extremely reliable and use them regularly.
I remember I once saw M9's (
slung) nuts while climbing Stiletto. I must say I was impressed then and still am... ;)
Heh heh heh;)
On 18/12/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>I remember I once saw M9's (
slung) nuts while climbing Stiletto.
>I must say I was impressed then and still am... ;)
>Heh heh heh;)
Hmm. Buffalo, Stiletto, and nuts.
~> M75, after you get through with my short M7, you should try the short M8* I put up recently ;-)
~> ~> though you won't find many decent nut placements; ... ~> just like on parts of Stiletto ;-)
3 x Heh.
(* Ask Ben_E if he has recovered from belaying it yet! ~> He was too polite to say much at the time ;-)
On 12/12/2013 Stugang wrote:
>On 12/12/2013 shortman wrote:
>>In 3 years that is the first time you have ever talked about climbing
>I am truly disappointed with myself for talking about climbing in a chockstone
>post. But simey is such a good troll that he drew this sleeping slug from
It seems like you don't want to talk about it in PM's either now;...
>Unable to send message. Recipient's private message store is full.
There are 26 messages in this topic.
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