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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes, they're totally bomber 12
26% 
Yes, but I wouldn't be happy above it 9
20% 
Yes, but only at a belay 4
9% 
Haven't placed them, but would if needed 16
35% 
Maybe if there's no other gear 2
4% 
Not any more, my seconds complained too much 0
 
Never have, never will, that's death on a stick 2
4% 
Never seen this before 1
2% 

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Author
Have you ever stacked nuts?
Mike Bee
15/12/2013
12:43:57 PM
I've used them once. It was at the belay on Bulger, at Araps.
For some reason I hadn't taken much gear up with (maybe lending some to a mate?...) and I got up to the legd, got two decent pieces, and was faffing around looking for a third. Eventually I threw a hex into a crack and nut on top of it, and had a hex/nut stacked combo!

Seemed good enough, I tested it pretty thoroughly, but it's not something I aim to do regularly.
m_smith
18/12/2013
8:00:45 AM
Simond make these Camerocks which are nuts with horizontal grooves to aid stacking. Haven't seen them in person, or stacked any other nuts for that matter.

http://www.iclimb.co.nz/ausprotection.htm

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/12/2013
8:53:26 AM
On 18/12/2013 m_smith wrote:
>Simond make these Camerocks which are nuts with horizontal grooves to aid
>stacking. Haven't seen them in person, or stacked any other nuts for that
>matter.
>
>http://www.iclimb.co.nz/ausprotection.htm

I borrowed a set of those once, used them, but didn't like them much for the following reasons;
* Like mikl said earlier, they sometimes...
>required you to be Siva the 3 handed god to place

* Like Mrs M10 mentioned, some placements required keeper slings, so as to not lose the additional nut if things became separated.

I found having double-slung nuts on one cord much easier to use; along with the ability to rotate one of the nuts to an extent often helps in some placements, whereas the locking-groove style of stacked nuts that you link to, limits use to one alignment.

Miguel75
18/12/2013
1:12:45 PM
On 13/12/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 12/12/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>>On 12/12/2013 Snacks wrote:
>>>I guess the question is how much worse are they than a non-stacked piece
>>>that fits the same sized placement.
>
>The only way they are worse, is that they are so secure that they can
>be a real bugger to remove by the second!
>They really came into their own pre-cam days for parallel cracks where
>no other nut placements would work.
>>
>>They are wobbly in a good placement, but not too bad in a parallel
>placement.
>>Before cams they were used a bit at frog buttress
>
>I beg to differ about them being wobbly.
>They are not hard to set and your second won't thank you if you set them
>too hard.
>I find them extremely reliable and use them regularly.

I remember I once saw M9's ( slung) nuts while climbing Stiletto. I must say I was impressed then and still am... ;)

Heh heh heh;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/12/2013
3:05:05 PM
On 18/12/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>I remember I once saw M9's ( slung) nuts while climbing Stiletto.
>I must say I was impressed then and still am... ;)
>
>Heh heh heh;)

Hmm. Buffalo, Stiletto, and nuts.
~> M75, after you get through with my short M7, you should try the short M8* I put up recently ;-)
~> ~> though you won't find many decent nut placements; ... ~> just like on parts of Stiletto ;-)
3 x Heh.



(* Ask Ben_E if he has recovered from belaying it yet! ~> He was too polite to say much at the time ;-)
☻)



IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/01/2014
2:24:31 PM
On 12/12/2013 Stugang wrote:
>On 12/12/2013 shortman wrote:
>>In 3 years that is the first time you have ever talked about climbing
>Stugang.
>>
>>
>>Fascinating.
>
>I am truly disappointed with myself for talking about climbing in a chockstone
>post. But simey is such a good troll that he drew this sleeping slug from
>his shell.

It seems like you don't want to talk about it in PM's either now;...
>Unable to send message. Recipient's private message store is full.

~> Howelsearewegunnaplanshorty&mikeysnextadvencha?

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

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