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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
The new wave of clean climbing

Miguel75
16/11/2013
10:00:58 AM
Behold, the cutting edge in the clean climbing evolution;


ajfclark
16/11/2013
10:56:26 AM
Where did you find that Mike?

Ben_E
Online Now
16/11/2013
10:58:55 AM
Gee Mike, I pitty your follower...

More seriously, where was that spotted?

Miguel75
16/11/2013
12:32:41 PM
I reckon I've finally found a way to increase my confidence in marginal placements.

Here's where I found it originally;

http://mountainproject.com/v/those-bashed-in-12-bd-nuts-in-scars/108440598

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/11/2013
2:17:59 PM
On 16/11/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>Behold, the misinterpreted previous original cutting edge in the clean climbing evolution;

fixedthatforyaM75


~> Looks bomber to me ;-)

... though the comment about the wire on the original linked-post is fair, given it shows corrosion from the length of time it has been on The Shield.

The practice of seating nuts has been around since the day they were invented, and most free climbers still do this with a tug on the placement at time of placing.
This is done for good reasons, like minimising liftout with rope-drag, added security if a wandering route will likely place a loading less than optimal to it, etc.

Some climbing location/s rock quality engendered sufficient concern with early developers that the practice of seating nuts with a hammer tap was considered the sensible normal thing to do, and John Fantini's runouts on such seated pro are legendary at Bungonia as an example of this; ... though the pictured one in this thread has been more than 'seated', ie a nut used as a bashie.

Not knowing the circumstances and quality of protection before or after the pictured piece, on the route it is on, leaves me hesitant to denounce it, as it may be the last good piece with a horrendous runout above it and the person who placed it looks like they did not want it to fail on them.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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