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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
Author
Which auto block device, Reverso 4 or ATC Guide?
Leah
1/07/2013
10:52:58 PM
Hi

I'd appreciate some advice on which device I should get.

My research so far has confused me a little, so I thought I'd just ask here, as lot of the info was outdated (including on this forum) as it was when the old Reversino was still available.

So I have a 10.2mm rope, both Reverso 4 or ATC Guide can handle this no probs, but which is smoother? Also what about when using doubles??

Thanks!!
One Day Hero
1/07/2013
11:15:23 PM
I've tried both, either is good. It's only a belay plate, won't affect your climbing experience significantly.

BoulderBaby
1/07/2013
11:26:31 PM
I'd go the ATC, but I'm biased towards BD products. Perfectly fine with doubles, (My ropes are 9.8)

I'd defo get a grigri over an eddy though.

Miguel75
2/07/2013
12:59:32 AM
Another vote for the guide, or the reverso:)
miketg
2/07/2013
1:11:08 AM
The age old question.. As ODH says its just a belay device.. ive used both without any noticeable difference. Similarly tend towards Black diamond for no great reason.. other than an affinity for the brand. ATCG works fine for me from 8.5 halves to 10.2 sport rope.

Go have fun
Justcameron
2/07/2013
1:13:51 AM
I'm with ODH. They are extremely similar devices and will perform almost identically. For autoblock mode I find that you need a bit of force to pull a 10.2mm single through either device (important to have the device free hanging.) They work like a dream with thinner ropes (I have tried 9.6mm and 8.8mm and both are very pleasant.)

For top belaying (eg. belaying a second) with a single 10.2mm rope I use a grigri in a similar fashion to how you would use a guide/reverso. No good for double rope abseils though.
dmc
2/07/2013
3:52:33 AM
The Reverso is lighter 59g vs 88g. Not a big deal.
The Petzl looks a lot sexier, the BD just looks same same nothing that special
But both work as well as each other.
Nothing wrong with looking good while belaying!!

Duang Daunk
2/07/2013
8:11:46 AM
On 2/07/2013 dmc wrote:
>The Reverso is lighter 59g vs 88g. Not a big deal.
>The Petzl looks a lot sexier, the BD just looks same same nothing that
>special
>But both work as well as each other.
>Nothing wrong with looking good while belaying!!
>
In the gym maybe but who needs a reverso / guide for that specialised use there.
For 90% of roped climbing a simple ATC type device is sufficient, and the design has been around forever, just ask kieran or M9 who remember when all these things were invented.

The sexy colours wear off with use and scratching, heavier weight is a better heat sink for raps, but as others said there is almost nothing in them, so yor best criteria is which multinational corp do you want to support, France or USofA.

A good belayer is watching their leader and their rope management, not other belayers, and passing tourists wouldn't know the difference between a belay and a belayer so what you look like is mute. Simey will likely disagree.
technogeekery
2/07/2013
8:41:46 AM
Whichever one you can get on special. $25 on Rock Hardware for the ATC Guide, hard to beat.
Leah
2/07/2013
10:26:24 AM
Thanks everyone.

I don't care how they look just how they function, and hey I don't need some sexy looking device to make me look sexy! Hehe

The old post on the forum talked about one having advantages over the other, but maybe since then with updated models they are on par. I'll just go the cheapest option. Yes great specials on Rock Hardware, on both devices, but once I add $10 shipping may as well get from a local store. I don't need any other gear at this stage.

Happy climbing!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/07/2013
10:33:40 AM
On 2/07/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>In the gym maybe but who needs a reverso / guide for that specialised
>use there.
>For 90% of roped climbing a simple ATC type device is sufficient, and
>the design has been around forever, just ask kieran or M9 who remember
>when all these things were invented.
>
>The sexy colours wear off with use and scratching, heavier weight is a
>better heat sink for raps, but as others said there is almost nothing in
>them, so yor best criteria is which multinational corp do you want to support,
>France or USofA.
>
>A good belayer is watching their leader and their rope management, not
>other belayers, and passing tourists wouldn't know the difference between
>a belay and a belayer so what you look like is mute. Simey will likely
>disagree.
>

Some fair points have been made there by DD.
Regarding "ATC type device", if you mean basic sticht plate type design, yes, they have been around a while, since the early 70's if my memory serves me correctly, though kieranl might be able to nail it tighter ;-/

From what I have seen, most people seldom (if ever?), use a Guide or Reverso in autoblock configuration*, but instead simply in tube-belay mode, and yes the anodising wears/scratches.
(* Current link to How To Video: Black Diamond Equipment's ATC-Guide.)

Regarding the original post;
>which is smoother?

This is more closely related to rope diameter. The thinner (and newer), the rope, the smoother they slide through. Note; this can be a negative feature if doing a freehanging abseil especially if wearing a heavy pack(!),... when additional friction techniques may need to be applied.


>Also what about when using doubles??

They are designed for it, so there is no problem provided your are of normal dexterity!

miketg
2/07/2013
10:34:31 AM

>The old post on the forum talked about one having advantages over the
>other, but maybe since then with updated models they are on par.

They have increase the size of hole used to release a loaded autobloc mode on the ATC guide.
pecheur
2/07/2013
1:52:25 PM
On 2/07/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>Some fair points have been made there by DD.
>Regarding "ATC type device", if you mean basic sticht plate type design,
>yes, they have been around a while, since the early 70's if my memory serves
>me correctly, though kieranl might be able to nail it tighter ;-/
>
>From what I have seen, most people seldom (if ever?), use a Guide or Reverso
>in autoblock configuration*, but instead simply in tube-belay mode, and
>yes the anodising wears/scratches.

Lots of people use them in autoblock mode, ajfclark and I at least ;p If you're not going to use them in autoblock mode, a lot of sport climbers seem to have them (WTF), get a Verso or ATC-XP, lighter and cheaper again.
>
>Regarding the original post;
>>which is smoother?
>
>This is more closely related to rope diameter. The thinner (and newer),
>the rope, the smoother they slide through. Note; this can be a negative
>feature if doing a freehanging abseil especially if wearing a heavy pack(!),...
>when additional friction techniques may need to be applied.
>
Meh, doesn't really matter if you have them teeth down you should be getting enough friction even with a pack, I rap with mine teeth up when unloaded.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/07/2013
1:59:20 PM
On 2/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>On 2/07/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>The thinner (and newer), the rope, the smoother they slide through. Note; this can be a negative
>>feature if doing a freehanging abseil especially if wearing a heavy pack(!),... when additional friction techniques may need to be applied.
>>
>Meh, doesn't really matter if you have them teeth down you should be getting
>enough friction even with a pack, I rap with mine teeth up when unloaded.
>
... but you are a lightweight ;-)
~> You need to get the full epic experience and do it with an aid rack!
maxdacat
2/07/2013
2:24:21 PM
On 2/07/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>In the gym maybe but who needs a reverso / guide for that specialised
>use there.
>For 90% of roped climbing a simple ATC type device is sufficient, and
>the design has been around forever, just ask kieran or M9 who remember
>when all these things were invented.
>

I think it depends on what sort of climbing you do. If you do a lot of multi-pitch then it can be quite handy to have a guide mode on your belay device as opposed to the simple type.
pecheur
2/07/2013
2:41:31 PM
On 2/07/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>
>I think it depends on what sort of climbing you do. If you do a lot of
>multi-pitch then it can be quite handy to have a guide mode on your belay
>device as opposed to the simple type.

Really? On multipitch I generally pick a partner who I think can do the pitches relatively efficiently so I use the device in normal mode.

I use the device in autoblock predominantly when I expect my partner to fall, so on harder stuff, single pitch to avoid the epics.

Using autoblock on a fat single with an efficient partner is just asking for elbow strain.

gnaguts
2/07/2013
3:42:10 PM
On 2/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>I use the device in autoblock predominantly when I expect my partner to
>fall, so on harder stuff, single pitch to avoid the epics.
>
>Using autoblock on a fat single with an efficient partner is just asking
>for elbow strain.

On harder stuff, really? Elbow strain can be got from lots of things . . .

Phil S
2/07/2013
4:14:46 PM
On 2/07/2013 ODH wrote:

>On harder stuff, really? Elbow strain can be got from lots of things .
>. .

My guess is. You would know.

gnaguts
2/07/2013
4:21:34 PM
On 2/07/2013 Phil S wrote:
>On 2/07/2013 ODH wrote:
>
>>On harder stuff, really? Elbow strain can be got from lots of things. . .
>
>My guess is. You would know.

Yeah, I saw you at south central when you claimed to be taking a dump.

I stuffed mine on an overhanging boulder problem after doing to many chinups the week before.
pecheur
2/07/2013
6:02:15 PM
On 2/07/2013 ODH wrote:

>I stuffed mine on an overhanging boulder problem after doing to many chinups
>the week before.

Did ODH just admit to bouldering and training?! For shame...

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
There are 67 messages in this topic.

 

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